Wachuko

Finally taking the time to replace the rotors, pads, sensors, and flush the brake fluid.

I have this:



but from reading the DIY forum it seems that using the Motive European Power Bleeder is easier...



Should I wait until I get the Motive Power Bleeder? Is this bleeder really a one man bleeder system? Do I need to refill, repressure, or does it work with a constant flow of new fluid until I am done?

Since it is already Friday afternoon I doubt I can find a local store that sells this... but would be nice to know for next time...

Wachuko

I found the answer to the simplicity of the Motive Power Bleeder...



Let me call them to see if they have a dealer here in Orlando...

That looks a lot easier compared to how I do it today...

garrett376

Yes, wait for the pressure bleeder. I wish I had shelled out the dough and bought one of these many, many years ago! I have the Mity-vac, too, and don't like it. The Motiv is truly one-man - my wife is sad since that's the job she used to help with, pushing the pedal! With the lift in your garage, you can bleed your entire system in no time with the Motiv bleeder.

I like to use the bleeder dry - not filling it. It's messier if you do it "wet" and really might save you one or two reattachment and pumping iterations, which is not that big of a deal. Plus, the brake fluid left in the bleeder will likely go bad just sitting in there, so it ends up wasted unless you use it soon. Maybe it's that I like clean tools, especially when I throw it in the trunk and take to the track with me.

garrett376

They should have added a step 1a: clamp off the overflow tube!!!

C4porsche964

The Motive bleeder worked great for me and yes, it is a one man job. You only need to fill it once, assuming you put enough in. You just have to pump it now and then to maintain the recommended pressure (20psi I think). At the end, if there is fluid left in the bleeder, simply open a bleeder valve and run the fluid down until it is all in the reservoir. I don't know anything about the stuff in the top picture, looks like something out of Star Wars.

LouZ

The Power Bleeder is a one-man job. I use the "dry" tank method - no fluid in the tank.

Just fill up the break resevoir to the top (after you remove the float switch canister). Cap it with the power bleeder. MOST IMPORTANTLY - clamp the overflow hose so the unit will hold pressure.

Pressurize the power bleeder to 20 psig and you are set!

Just keep an eye on the fluid level in the resevoir, don't let it run dry or you will have to start over.

A worthwile trick is to use ATE Blue fluid. When you bleed the caliper, just wait for the fluid color to change and you are assured that fresh fluid is throughout the circuit. (Next time, switch to ATE Gold and wait for it to change from blue to gold)

The good part of the "dry" method is NO CLEANUP of the power bleeder!

LouZ

Wow - slow typing got 3 responses in front of me!

Wachuko

I will remember that... I like the idea of placing a big label with that phrase on the unit to remind me...

I will go ahead with replacing the rotors and pads and adjusting the emergency brake. I will wait for the Power Bleeder to arrive (placed the order today after reading your comments) before flushing the system.

Thank you and enjoy the weekend!!!

JasonAndreas

If you bleed the clutch and leave the Motive dry remember that the opening on the fluid reservoir for the clutch line is a lot higher up than it is for the brake lines. A lot of people that use the dry method forget this the first time and have the clutch pedal goto the floor and not come back. (I use mine wet)

Wachuko

Cool . I plan on using it with the brake fluid in the canister.

Rennen

I can tell you from experience that this doesn't work if you want to bleed the clutch slave. The fluid is pulled off the top of the reservoir and you end up blowing air throught that line if you don't keep it filled to the tippy top. I have found it easier to use it the way they describe in the instrucitons and fill the tank up with fluid. Just make sure the tank is below the brake reservoir when you detach the cap so it draws excess fluid back down into the tank.

ltc

One side note for ATE Blue.
If left in the plastic brake resevoir in the car, it will stain the plastic and leave a 'ring'; this makes it difficult to visually check brake fluid level. It is for this reason many people don't use ATE Blue (but yes, it easy to tell when flushing when going from blue to gold to blue).

FWIW, I use Castrol SRF, simply because I am VERY fond of my brake pedal on track and even at $70/litre, I don't even think twice.

I have a Motive, brand new in the box that I bring to the track just in case someone needs it.....as for my brakes, I leave that to my mechanic.

pete000

I also chose not to use the ATE blue because of the staining issue. I installed speed bleeders on my calipers. Still needed the wife, but it went really fast!

bhensarl

Another note: If you do bleed the slave and when you get in your brake pedal falls immediately to the floor, don't freak out (like I did). Just rebleed the slave. That should get the air out and voila, your clutch will work again. Have fun. Oh yeah, one more vote for the Motive.
Brian

jimq

Jaime,
I thought I had seen it before at Central Auto Parts in Longwood. May have been a different brand but looked the same. It was a couple months ago.