cobias1

actually just saw snapped bolts. cleaned them off a bit but no rust pits so am not sure what went on there. Getting kinda frustrated though as a recommended mechanic via a workmate is recommending just getting another engine. was just checking out motormeister in cali. has anyone ever used these guys ? I have just enough clams to drop on one of their drop ship / turn key rebuilds but then I am seriously tapped for some time. Even considered selling my CBR 929 but on the rare days I get on that thing theres nothing else like it. Anyhow, got some time to think it over and will see what comes about. Did wanna mention the comments on the star number had me rolling over here..especially the bouncy from TBennet..too funny. Thanks again guys and will post again on tuesday after talking with the mechanic.

beentherebaby

^^^^ Do a forum search for Motormeister.

J richard

...run forest run...

cobias1

hahaha actually ran to the mechanic today..its official that he will pull and reinstall the engine for a decent price. so we are pulling it and im gonna do the grunt work to get down to the head studs. Got a few items I can work with and some time and a daily vehicle to drive so should be an interesting educational experience. probably gonna have him do the re-timing and all the more technical stuff however will see when we get there. so maybe by summer...this is the first choice as the car does still have a strong pull and is not sluggish. second would be a junker engine at almost 3 times what I hope this is gonna cost. 90 days at most places ive checked with and shipping / core charges. since the engines gotta come out anyhow..seems like the "spock"tonian thing to do is take the time to tear it down anyhow and see what the damnage is anyhow.

J richard

Good plan, nothing like getting your hands dirty!
It wouldn't suprise me if you come out of this with minimal work, the issue is avoiding the "while you're in there" desease...

cobias1

Okee dokee guys..engine is out and should be here at the house friday..first thing im gonna try to do is clean it up as from the last time i saw it there was major oil all over it. got an adapter for the new ac delco engine stand on the way also. will post some pics if i can with this account as i go along, though there was a rebuild done by another user that had lots of info and pics really good documentation i thought. anyhow thanks for the info and encouragement thus far.

J richard

Keep us posted! Believe it or not if you take your time it can be fun...

cobias1

Hi guys, quick question as I could not find an answer searching threads or in Adrians book. Just wanted to know when I get ready to seperate my engine/transmission do I need to drain the transmission fluid ? Even though from reading I might just go ahead and flush it but will probably be after I split them.

J richard

Nope as long as you don't flip it over you're fine, there's a vent on the top other than that it's sealed. Don't forger to follow the process for the release fork or you'll wonder why it won't come apart.

altarchsa

You can do your own timing with the purchase of a dial gauge if you don't have one. There are good descriptions of the process in the Porsche shop manuals and Bruce Anderson's and Adrian Streather's books, as well as the aftermarket repair manuals like Chiltons. Just get the 964 paper back spec book for settings. I think this is the most technical, yet owner "do-able", and most rewarding part of a rebuild.

With some reading and research, and the help of these guys, you can do everything but the machine shop work, and possibly measurements and evaluations of repair/replacement, if you're into it.

Good luck and have fun. If I were in your position re: time, etc., I would be doing it full time for fun and profit.

cobias1

It has begunnnnn....bawahahahaha...thanks for the encouragement JRichard and altarchsa. I spent part of yesterday and most of today cleaning old burnt caked on oil off the tins ( sure helped to keep them from rusting ) , tranny case, and some of the engine. Think the tranny is from a junkyard somewhere as while I was cleaning I could see the word "ok" written on one side of it. started to take the tin off the starter side but just couldnt get that one off. I think the cam nut as to come off but will investigate further on my next day on it. If I get a chance will get some pics going soon. Thanks again and hope you guys had a great weekend.

altarchsa

Strongly suggest you follow the disassembly sequence in workshop manuals or Streather's book.

cobias1

thanks altar...gonna try and do some work on it this weekend. have got the motor and tranny set up in the shop on my bike work table. between work and some play im just now gonna get back on it. got a question as far as the tools you guys might have used. does the 46 mm for the cam have to be a crows foot or can it be a box end / open end wrench ? what other tools would u suggest that are workable workarounds for factory toolage ?-

cobias1

is there a special tool for the sensor located at the left rear of the motor that goes into the cylinder head?

thanks in advance
Attachment 492986

cobias1

Ok per my previous message...ive got the cam covers off and all that good jazz. might be taking a bit of a break for a few days as I need some tools now such as the cam holder. However, im still a bit confused on the advice of getting a crows foot as at this point I do not see where its needed because the cam nut that im seeing on the right side of the engine def. is not 46 mm.

Attachment 492988