Broken Head Studs
12-15-2010, 06:31 PM
#76
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Collapsible oil return tubes? Easier to remove with the engine in the car if there is a problem later on.
New Chain rails - although I don't think that they wear out to quickly
Powder coat the fan and valve covers - makes them easier to clean and they look better
Cobias -
I know what you mean - we are supposed to get freezing rain over here tonight - looks the C4 is going to go to work tomorrow so I don't slide off of the road, and I am jealous that other people get to take pics of their C4's in the snow.
New Chain rails - although I don't think that they wear out to quickly
Powder coat the fan and valve covers - makes them easier to clean and they look better
Cobias -
I know what you mean - we are supposed to get freezing rain over here tonight - looks the C4 is going to go to work tomorrow so I don't slide off of the road, and I am jealous that other people get to take pics of their C4's in the snow.
12-18-2010, 12:22 AM
#77
Racer
ok good news got all studs out of the passenger side of engine with very few issues..also bought a couple of new stud puller from koken and they worked decently..as i told myself easy easy easy..slow slow slow..
splitting the case question now..is that a 15 mm 12 point socket I need in there...i saw in waynes book that its 15 mm but its alot more points than what i have on my set ??
splitting the case question now..is that a 15 mm 12 point socket I need in there...i saw in waynes book that its 15 mm but its alot more points than what i have on my set ??
Last edited by cobias1; 12-18-2010 at 12:28 AM. Reason: mis-stated socket type
12-18-2010, 08:59 PM
#78
Racer
okee dokee scratch the last question..14mm 12 point..got one but might as well buy another. monday will try and get some more stuff done so far we are down to the case cracking and the flywheel pull then I should be ready to put the heads in the back of the truck tuesday to take to the shop for inspection and pricing.
12-22-2010, 11:09 AM
#79
Racer
Engine barrels and pistons with barrels cleaned. working on cleaning the engine case a bit now that i have all of the studs out. 2 of the now clean pistons have nicks on them so i have to check with the machine shop about resurfacing if that is possible.
will probably be next week before i actually split the case as this weekend will be the holiday and i have overtime scheduled on saturday night.
will probably be next week before i actually split the case as this weekend will be the holiday and i have overtime scheduled on saturday night.
12-22-2010, 12:06 PM
#81
I have yet to pull my 23.5 headstuds from the case but was wondering - I've supported my con rods using elastic bands round the head studs so they wont damage anything by flapping around, have you supported yours since you removed your studs and if so how?
Secondly - did you have to apply heat to free the loctite on the headstuds? I had to borrow an oxy acetylene set to remove my exhaust nuts but this is too hot for headstuds, not sure if butane type blowtorches are hot enough though?
12-22-2010, 06:12 PM
#82
Racer
Hi Alex,
I have not supported the connecting rods with anything as there really isnt anything that i know of to use. ive mostly kept my engine on a table until I got the studs out. I would recommend this if possible because mine were very stubborn and the with the last set it was helpful to be able to strap the engine down so it would not move.
the tools i used:
1. 8 and 10 mm matco stud puller mostly. they look like sockets.
8 mm slides onto the stud shaft and as you turn it tightens up around it allowing you to grip.
2. 10 mm fit along the threads of the studs that were not broken. ( i had 7 broken total ). when i go to reinstall im gonna look at the one on pelican parts from snap on that has a collett you put into a chamber. but thats later.
3. KD camber type stud puller ( best i can explain it ). Basically it can go on different size studs and locks onto them via a camber type device in the tool. This thing will not let go though and will not slip when its on right. this is why i have to drill a couple out on one side or do the weld up and add nut technique. ( later though )
4. propane torch to heat it up. just like the one my dad used to use when we had a frozen pipe as kids or a plumber uses.
the process went as follows.
1. heat up with torch to loosen up the loctite
2. tap with a hammer a couple of times
3. try and turn slow and easy
if it turned then i would continue until i felt a bit of resistance. Then i stopped and reheated and then retapped with hammer and retried to turn. the last ones came out much more easy. I would not pound but would give it a good tap a few times as they were trashed at this point anyhow.
Good luck with yours and let us know how its going.
Dan
I have not supported the connecting rods with anything as there really isnt anything that i know of to use. ive mostly kept my engine on a table until I got the studs out. I would recommend this if possible because mine were very stubborn and the with the last set it was helpful to be able to strap the engine down so it would not move.
the tools i used:
1. 8 and 10 mm matco stud puller mostly. they look like sockets.
8 mm slides onto the stud shaft and as you turn it tightens up around it allowing you to grip.
2. 10 mm fit along the threads of the studs that were not broken. ( i had 7 broken total ). when i go to reinstall im gonna look at the one on pelican parts from snap on that has a collett you put into a chamber. but thats later.
3. KD camber type stud puller ( best i can explain it ). Basically it can go on different size studs and locks onto them via a camber type device in the tool. This thing will not let go though and will not slip when its on right. this is why i have to drill a couple out on one side or do the weld up and add nut technique. ( later though )
4. propane torch to heat it up. just like the one my dad used to use when we had a frozen pipe as kids or a plumber uses.
the process went as follows.
1. heat up with torch to loosen up the loctite
2. tap with a hammer a couple of times
3. try and turn slow and easy
if it turned then i would continue until i felt a bit of resistance. Then i stopped and reheated and then retapped with hammer and retried to turn. the last ones came out much more easy. I would not pound but would give it a good tap a few times as they were trashed at this point anyhow.
Good luck with yours and let us know how its going.
Dan
12-23-2010, 09:32 AM
#83
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12-24-2010, 03:44 PM
#86
Racer
awesome thanks altarchsa...does anyone have a picture of how the flywheel retaining tool is supposed to fit onto a "machined" section of the P 201 engine holder ??? i like my new little tool but cant figure out how to use it except to maybe put it on the end of a 25 lb test line using a carolina rig..
12-24-2010, 04:41 PM
#88
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Thinking ahead, do you have one of the VW type (for lack of a better term) ring compressors? Mine's a spring metal strap about 2" wide and just long enough to almost reach around the piston, with the ends turned back at a 90 degree angle to create flanges. You can compress the rings by squeezing the flanges toward each other, then use vice gripes to hold the strap tight. After pushing the cylinder down over the rings, there's just enough room between the bottom of the cylinder and the case to pull the strap out between the head studs.
12-25-2010, 04:11 PM
#89
Racer
Heya Merry Christmas everyone.....
I will look into that ring compressor for sure Altarchsa..also the hole in the flywheel lock tool is too small for the transmission bolts so either i bore out the hole or attach it some other way..will look it over later though for sure.
Hope everyones having a great christmas day and enjoying time with friends and or family.
I will look into that ring compressor for sure Altarchsa..also the hole in the flywheel lock tool is too small for the transmission bolts so either i bore out the hole or attach it some other way..will look it over later though for sure.
Hope everyones having a great christmas day and enjoying time with friends and or family.
01-09-2011, 11:57 AM
#90
Racer
just a quick update. at present one set of heads are in the shop as of yesterday. machinist said looks as though they have never been machined before. He is going to do an inspection of them and let me know what he recommends doing. he said small pit in one barrel looks as though its just gonna be a small oil pocket and so probably no problem. puff of smoke at start up then should be good. Have not split the case yet as one of my buds at work said it may have to be " line bored " if i do and that is he** expensive they say. It seemed to not leak from at least the bottom seam so may skip that for now. this will keep me outta the total rebuild kit cost. still have to work on the two remaining stud pieces however with the weather here in nc...that maybe a little bit later. I think for right now im staying inside as much as possibly where i have a positive heat factor and a personal heat pad sitting on my couch watching the news..thanks again guys for the encouragement and hope you are all having a good beginning to the new year.