Some issues.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Just around the corner
Some issues.
1. My oil level gauge never moves. It sits in the red at idle, at full throttle and at normal driving. What's with this?
2. My "anti-brake" light comes on every time I go over a significant bump. I'm thinking this is a faulty wear sensor.
3. I'm getting very little brake dust on the front wheels. Could this be a sign that the front brakes aren't working properly? Could it be related to item #2?
4. Periodically, upon starting, my idle will race up and down in very quick bursts. Once I drive for a few moments, this behavior stops.
5. Again, periodically, when I turn the key to start the car, there will be a second of dead time. Could this be a starter motor problem or perhaps a weak battery?
Any comments would be appreciated.
Syd
2. My "anti-brake" light comes on every time I go over a significant bump. I'm thinking this is a faulty wear sensor.
3. I'm getting very little brake dust on the front wheels. Could this be a sign that the front brakes aren't working properly? Could it be related to item #2?
4. Periodically, upon starting, my idle will race up and down in very quick bursts. Once I drive for a few moments, this behavior stops.
5. Again, periodically, when I turn the key to start the car, there will be a second of dead time. Could this be a starter motor problem or perhaps a weak battery?
Any comments would be appreciated.
Syd
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From: Cheshire, England
Hi, Syd.
1. What does your dipstick have to say? Remember to have the engine at its operating temp. and the car level and idling for at least 30 secs.
My gauge exactly mirrors the dipstick upper and lower marks.
2. Pass.
3. I get loads of front brake dust - are you getting less than the rears, or not much all around?
4. Get a 'system adaptation' (Bosch hammer) done. You might check for wear/dirt on the contacts of the air-metering flap also.
5. Pass.
Hope some of this non-expert advice helps.
1. What does your dipstick have to say? Remember to have the engine at its operating temp. and the car level and idling for at least 30 secs.
My gauge exactly mirrors the dipstick upper and lower marks.
2. Pass.
3. I get loads of front brake dust - are you getting less than the rears, or not much all around?
4. Get a 'system adaptation' (Bosch hammer) done. You might check for wear/dirt on the contacts of the air-metering flap also.
5. Pass.
Hope some of this non-expert advice helps.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 314
Likes: 1
From: P-ville, PA
SYD,
1. It could mean your very low on oil. Like JOhn said mine is very close to the dipstick indication.
2. pass
3. When WAS the last time you checked your brake pads?
4. Mine used to do this, but doesn't anymore, why? Don't know. You can "reset" the DME by disconnecting the battery for more than 10? minutes and then hook it back up and go for a "spirited" drive to re map the DME. I do this everytime I get a clitch first then on to other cures.
5. pass
1. It could mean your very low on oil. Like JOhn said mine is very close to the dipstick indication.
2. pass
3. When WAS the last time you checked your brake pads?
4. Mine used to do this, but doesn't anymore, why? Don't know. You can "reset" the DME by disconnecting the battery for more than 10? minutes and then hook it back up and go for a "spirited" drive to re map the DME. I do this everytime I get a clitch first then on to other cures.
5. pass
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 29,309
Likes: 622
From: Just around the corner
I have found a solution to all of my issues and thought I would share in case anyone had similar problems.
1. Broken gauge. Oil had just been changed and registered at proper levels on the dip stick at hot idle. Replaced it with a used one from my mechanic. $75.
2. Faulty wear sensor. Replaced - No charge.
3. Front caliper service. $200.
4. Mechanic thinks my floor mat was pushing on the accelerator pedal and throwing off the idle. He thinks that this also has been contributing to my periodic stalling problem. I've been adjusting the sliding mat when needed. No problems since. Go figure.
5. He cleaned the battery terminals. No problems since, although he recommends battery replacement if problem persists.
1. Broken gauge. Oil had just been changed and registered at proper levels on the dip stick at hot idle. Replaced it with a used one from my mechanic. $75.
2. Faulty wear sensor. Replaced - No charge.
3. Front caliper service. $200.
4. Mechanic thinks my floor mat was pushing on the accelerator pedal and throwing off the idle. He thinks that this also has been contributing to my periodic stalling problem. I've been adjusting the sliding mat when needed. No problems since. Go figure.
5. He cleaned the battery terminals. No problems since, although he recommends battery replacement if problem persists.
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From: Dana Point, CA
Hey Syd,
Glad to hear you got all your problems sorted out!
On #2 ("anti-brake"), did you mean anti-lock brake light (ABS), or break wear indicator light? I imagine you must have meant the latter, as a break wear indicator wouldn't make the ABS light go off.
I recently had a problem with my ABS light coming on, usually when driving home from work in the afternoon (never in the morning). It would clear after the car was turned off then back on, and only occurred while driving down the road (not at rest). In addition, after the light came on, the speedo would jump (spaz) and the cruise control would surge when hitting bumps.
I traced the problem to an oxidized copper ground connection for the ABS control unit. Right-front corner of the trunk. Since cleaning it up nicely (over two weeks ago), no more ABS light. The type of fix I like ($0). <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Still thinking about a G35C to supplement the p-car, but haven't pulled the trigger. Enjoying your G35 sedan?
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
Glad to hear you got all your problems sorted out!
On #2 ("anti-brake"), did you mean anti-lock brake light (ABS), or break wear indicator light? I imagine you must have meant the latter, as a break wear indicator wouldn't make the ABS light go off.
I recently had a problem with my ABS light coming on, usually when driving home from work in the afternoon (never in the morning). It would clear after the car was turned off then back on, and only occurred while driving down the road (not at rest). In addition, after the light came on, the speedo would jump (spaz) and the cruise control would surge when hitting bumps.
I traced the problem to an oxidized copper ground connection for the ABS control unit. Right-front corner of the trunk. Since cleaning it up nicely (over two weeks ago), no more ABS light. The type of fix I like ($0). <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Still thinking about a G35C to supplement the p-car, but haven't pulled the trigger. Enjoying your G35 sedan?
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 29,309
Likes: 622
From: Just around the corner
Randall, good to hear from you. Yes, the G35 is fun, but to tell you the truth, since the good weather has arrived, I rarely drive it. I've often walked out my front door in the morning with the Infiniti key in my hand. Then when I see the 964 and the sun shining, the G35 stays in its spot. Unfortunately, I have to sell the Porsche. My youngest son is soon to get his license and with the extra car in the household, the insurers would treat him like a principal driver of one of the cars. Well at 16, the premium for him is unthinkable. As an occasional driver, however, its still high, but tolerable. So the Porsche must go. I hope he understands some day, what a heartbreaking sacrifice I am making for him. As soon as he can afford to pay on his own, I'll be reacquiring a Porsche.
Cheers.
Cheers.
