Anyone willing to help a first time DIY brake/clutch bleed in Maryland?
#1
Anyone willing to help a first time DIY brake/clutch bleed in Maryland?
I'm going to be performing my first DIY brake and clutch bleed next week in my newly purchased 91 964 C4. Unfortunately I must admit, I'm a little worried about my "skillz." I have 3 bottles of ATE Blue and 2 bottles of gold (just in case), tools, a new Motive pressure bleeder, and the willingness to learn. I should have floor jack/stands by then.
Anyone in the Baltimore/Washington (Columbia, Maryland) area willing to overlook my work and possibly assist if I do something wrong? I'll buy the beer
Thanks,
Puma
Anyone in the Baltimore/Washington (Columbia, Maryland) area willing to overlook my work and possibly assist if I do something wrong? I'll buy the beer
Thanks,
Puma
#2
Professor of Pending Projects
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From: Orlando, FL
Originally Posted by puma1824
I'm going to be performing my first DIY brake and clutch bleed next week in my newly purchased 91 964 C4. Unfortunately I must admit, I'm a little worried about my "skillz." I have 3 bottles of ATE Blue and 2 bottles of gold (just in case), tools, a new Motive pressure bleeder, and the willingness to learn. I should have floor jack/stands by then.
Anyone in the Baltimore/Washington (Columbia, Maryland) area willing to overlook my work and possibly assist if I do something wrong? I'll buy the beer
Thanks,
Puma
Anyone in the Baltimore/Washington (Columbia, Maryland) area willing to overlook my work and possibly assist if I do something wrong? I'll buy the beer
Thanks,
Puma
Just make sure you give the beer AFTER the job is done
You should be fine... it is just a bit of a pita to get to the bleeder nipple for the slave.
Again, you will do well. Best of luck.
#3
A quick word of advice:
Before you pressurize the brake system clamp off the overflow line on the brake fluid reservoir. Otherwise you'll have a nice big puddle on the ground and be no closer to bleeding the brakes and clutch than when you started.
Before you pressurize the brake system clamp off the overflow line on the brake fluid reservoir. Otherwise you'll have a nice big puddle on the ground and be no closer to bleeding the brakes and clutch than when you started.
#4
Good luck hope all goes well
And when you have finished please write up a step by step guide to bleeding brakes/clutch on a C4 even better take lots of pictures as well for people like me who have got a little confused over it
Cheers
And when you have finished please write up a step by step guide to bleeding brakes/clutch on a C4 even better take lots of pictures as well for people like me who have got a little confused over it
Cheers
#7
Originally Posted by RedRS
I'll help. I live in Clarksville. Did you say "beer"?
Thanks,
Puma
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#8
I have a full set of shop manuals....I'll bring the maintenance binder along. I do believe it calls for the hammer if you are going to replace all of the fluid. You have to use it to activate a couple of solenoids in the ABS system I think.
#10
Puma, I live in Pasadena, MD and need to do the same. I'm busy this weekend but next weekend would probably work. I have a brand new Motive Power Bleeder... Though I've never done a C4... I have a set of shop manuals too... But I believe the appropriate way is to do it with a Hammer. I have read some posts of people that have done it without the hammer.
You should search/listen to posts here and then decide. By the way... Check your PMs... You have one with pics...
You should search/listen to posts here and then decide. By the way... Check your PMs... You have one with pics...
#11
Professor of Pending Projects
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From: Orlando, FL
For bleeding or flushing the brakes and the clutch system you do not need the hammer... you need the hammer if you are bleeding or flushing also the awd system (for opening the solenoids)...
Yes... I know... all components share the same brake fluid... so unless you also flush the lines for the awd you will have some old brake fluid in those areas...
just saying that you can flush/bleed the brakes without the hammer...
Yes... I know... all components share the same brake fluid... so unless you also flush the lines for the awd you will have some old brake fluid in those areas...
just saying that you can flush/bleed the brakes without the hammer...
#13
Hello, I'm back...was a away for business. Anyways I'll respond to PMs and I'll hopefully do the bleed this week with some assistance from one of the volunteers
So verdict is "hammer" not needed?
So verdict is "hammer" not needed?
#14
Originally Posted by puma1824
So verdict is "hammer" not needed?
#15
Puma
I bled my 92 C4 brakes, clutch, accumulator solenoid block and it went very smoothly, just take your time. I used Adrian Streather's book, The Enthusiasts Companion; highly recommended. I too worried about not having a hammer (If I had a hammer) but as the others said, you can bleed everything but the PDAS system without it. Because of this, you won't completely replace the fluid, but you get most of it. Eventually, I figure I'll find a hammer to borrow and do the rest. Go to Home Depot and get some clear tubing (5/16th I think) to put over the bleed valves and run into a plastic bottle. Clamp the overflow tube, hook up your pressure bleeder (empty) first and pressure test it. Mine had a leak where the tube connected to the plastic container: another trip to home depot to buy a hose clamp. Add your brake fluid, pump it up and start bleeding. You will need to run your hydraulic pump for the accumulator bleeding, but if you follow the directions in Adrian's book, it works like a charm. Also, I recommend investing in a set of flare nut wrenches to avoid distorting the bleeder valve.
Good luck.
I bled my 92 C4 brakes, clutch, accumulator solenoid block and it went very smoothly, just take your time. I used Adrian Streather's book, The Enthusiasts Companion; highly recommended. I too worried about not having a hammer (If I had a hammer) but as the others said, you can bleed everything but the PDAS system without it. Because of this, you won't completely replace the fluid, but you get most of it. Eventually, I figure I'll find a hammer to borrow and do the rest. Go to Home Depot and get some clear tubing (5/16th I think) to put over the bleed valves and run into a plastic bottle. Clamp the overflow tube, hook up your pressure bleeder (empty) first and pressure test it. Mine had a leak where the tube connected to the plastic container: another trip to home depot to buy a hose clamp. Add your brake fluid, pump it up and start bleeding. You will need to run your hydraulic pump for the accumulator bleeding, but if you follow the directions in Adrian's book, it works like a charm. Also, I recommend investing in a set of flare nut wrenches to avoid distorting the bleeder valve.
Good luck.