Do the simple things first: Check that air filter is clean. Remove and clean the Idle Air Control valve (or ISV as it's sometimes called); simply procedure, takes 15 minutes. If that doesn't solve the problem, then remove and clean the throttle body (only a bit more involved but still doable). Check vacuum hoses for leaks.

 

How would I be able to do this? Did you replace your to finally fix the problem?

 

I'm living with it since I also track the car (the only real advantage to the LFW, in my opinion). Its an expensive changeout at about $2k. If your mechanic ever needs to change the clutch or main seal he will have it apart and can visually inspect it. As soon as my clutch goes, the LWF will also go, since there is virtually no more labor to switch out the flywheel. Also, LFW tend to have a "coffee grinder" sound at idle at times. That's another hint that you may/or may not have one. Service records would clearly indicate a LFW also if has been done/you have records.

 

I had the same problem with my car when I bought it two years ago. I found a bad micro switch on the throttle body. If you look where the throttle cable attaches you can rotate the linkage and see the small switch engage and disengage. The micro switch button is pressed down when the throttle is closed by a small metal "finger", on my car it was broken off. If I took a small screwdriver and pressed the button down on the switch with the car at idle and it would smooth right out. I replaced the switch and no more stalling. The switch itself could be bad as well (not just the metal finger broken off) you could test this with a multi-meter to see if the two contacts read continuity between them when the switch is pressed down. Of course if you do have a LWF this probably wont be the problem. Good luck, Steve