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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 11:57 PM
  #16  
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myturbo36
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From: Southlake, TX
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Actually, I spent alot of time finding the correct 965 quarters and fenders. If you notice the bottom of the quarter, you will see the extra dimples for bolting on the sale panels (same for the front fenders).

I had a similar issue with the drain plugs, I made the strippers dig all of them out for me. Only lost one in the process, which I was able to dig up used...I couldn't find the part number to order them and wanted to make certain that they were also powderpainted.

Are you planning to use seam sealer? Does it make much of a difference?
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Old Jul 22, 2005 | 12:18 AM
  #17  
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Geoffrey
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From: Kingston, NY
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Ahhh, I saw the torsion tube cutout on the 965 quarterpanels and ASSUMED they were for a 930. I have a pair of quarters taken off of an 86 turbo that I'm going to use for my car. That is the weekend project, to weld the qtrs on the car. This completes all the work for powdercoating.

Since I have all fiberglass parts, the sale panels should be no problem to get them to fit properly.

I am not going to seamseal my car because it would look nasty unpainted. I would imagine that you may get some water in the car if driven in wet conditions. How long from the time it was dipped to the time it was powdercoated?
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Old Jul 22, 2005 | 12:22 AM
  #18  
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myturbo36
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From: Southlake, TX
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Geoffrey-

What are you doing for swaybars? We don't have many choices...

What are you doing for an engine this time around?

Did you weigh the car before and after dipping it? I was amazed at how much undercoating and paint weigh.

My only regret is that I didn't seam weld the chasis before powderpainting like you did.
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Old Jul 22, 2005 | 12:30 AM
  #19  
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myturbo36
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From: Southlake, TX
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I let the car sit for several months prior to powderpainting to ensure that I would not have any leaching from the dipping process. I then had the powderpainter mediablast everything to get rid of the flash rust that developed. What color are you having it powderpainted? Yellow turned out to be a difficult color for them to do, but turned out amazing and is a very close to the Speed Yellow wet paint.

I would ensure that the powderpainter masks off each of the grounding points, will save you from having to strip the paint off those spots in the future. The place that did mine did a great job at capping/plugging all of the fastners so I had very few threads that had to be cleaned out. Powderpaint is definately strong...
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Old Jul 22, 2005 | 12:33 AM
  #20  
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Geoffrey
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From: Kingston, NY
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I will probably purchase the TRG sway bars, and as you said, there are few choices out there. I have been on the lookout for a driver adjustable sway bar from either Kelly Moss or from PMNA, but they are few and far inbetween.

My engine will be a 3.8l engine built off of a 993 engine with a GT3r crank, oil pump and some light rods, etc...I'm looking for 370-375hp on 93 octane fuel.

I didn't weigh the car but know that the undercoating and seam sealing weighs a lot. I have been told that the powder coating weighs less than paint so I'm interested to see. I did finally purchase a set of scales, so prior to taking it for powdercoating I'll weight the chassis if I get time.

I'm going to paint the car either Grand Prixx White (964) or Glacier white (993), whichever color comes closest to the powdercoat color. The front will be Maritime Blue.
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