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Oil change on a 964

Old 06-21-2001, 01:07 AM
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Post Oil change on a 964

Since I'm tired of paying my mechanic $$$ for routine maintenance, I'm about to invest in a jack and jack stands so I can do some of the work myself. Seems like one of the easy things to do is an oil change, which I've done on the cars I've owned in the past.

For the 964, I'll need to remove the engine pan (which I intend to leave off), and drain from the two drain plugs. I read somewhere that it's recommended to replace the plug rings or gaskets. I have two questions:

1. Can someone confirm that there's only 1 oil filter on a 92 964? I know the 993 has two oil filters, one of which is difficult to reach. The filter I see in the engine bay of my 964 is clearly accessible, but I wanted to make sure that there isn't a second, difficult to reach filter underneath.

2. Are there any other tips or suggestions anyone cares to pass along about an oil change for a 964?

Thanks for any info!

92 C2 Coupe
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Old 06-21-2001, 01:40 AM
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Here's my routine for oil changes on my 964:
1) Warm up car at end of day.
2) Jack up drivers side a few inches then undo the engine drain plug and drain oil into a low pan I use 12 Qt pan. Lower driver's side of car.
3) Jack up passenger side of car until rear wheel is off ground then slowly lower car back down. Suspension will not settle completely and this allows my second low oil drainage pan to fit under drainage point for the oil tank located just forward of right rear wheel. Drain tank.
4) Go to bed, let engine and tank drain overnight.
5)Come back the next morning. The oil filter-the only one- is located in engine compartment and is now completely drained and can be removed without any loss of oil. Replace filter with new one following directions on filter #930.107.764.00.
6) Replace both drain plugs using new seal rings, the engine and oil tank take the same sealing ring. Torque engine plug to 51 lb-ft and tank plug to 47 lb-ft
7)Fill engine with 6.4 Qts oil. Start engine, idle and add 3.2 more Qts oil then warm up engine and top off oil level.
8)Have fun with money saved. Total time I spend on this is ~1/2 hour.
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Old 06-21-2001, 02:02 AM
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There is only 1 oil filter on your C2, located in the traditional right rear quarter panel, use a genuine or Mahle Part# OC 54, which is an OEM Manufacturer. You should get two new aluminum o-rings. Behind the Oil Filter located in the wheel well is a 3rd drain plug, make sure to get that one before you undo your oil filter, if you do not want to get that plug leave plenty of rags nearby. I use a cut off oil container to catch most of the oil. After you have drained all the oil. Replace your filter and oil the seal on the filter. You also might consider switching to a Synthetic, I have noticed that my C2 ran cooler after I made the switch. Anyway put 6 to 6.5 quarts in, wait a little, START engine, IDLE ONLY, run for 2 or 3 minutes, stop engine, add 3 to 3.25 quarts. Let the oil drain for a few minutes, start engine. Let it warm up and check on level ground, add oil only when you are up to operating temps. I tend to run my oil level half way between the dip stick two marks. Good Luck.

Torque Specs Crankcase Drain Plug 52ft/lb
Thermostat Drain Plug 48ft/lb
Oil Filter Consule Plug 23ft/lb
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Old 06-21-2001, 12:12 PM
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Amherst, NY USA
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get two oil pans.

no need to replace o-rings everytime.

you will make a mess when removing the filter, as mentioned there is only one, have rags on hand.

when oil is draining it is a good opportunity to have a beer.

add the 6 qts, then start the car and let it warm up, good opportunity to have a beer at this point. after car is warm add the rest of the oil s-l-o-w-l-y.

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Old 06-21-2001, 02:16 PM
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To not make a mess when removing the oil filter, poke a small hole on the side or the end of the filter to relieve the pressure in side.

This is a trick done by a lot of mechanic to keep things clean.

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Old 06-21-2001, 02:47 PM
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THANKS! I knew it wasn't rocket science, but I had a feeling that there were some nuances for a 911. I now feel confident that I can handle at least this part of my routine maintenance myself. Next on my 'learn to do' list is valve adjustment, which I hear is a major PIA.

Thanks again...
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Old 06-21-2001, 11:06 PM
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You can suceed with all the advice above. However, I suggest, 1) put a pan under it, and drain the crankcase;2) take the right rear wheel off and put a jack stand under it. 3) just crack the plug on the inside of the fender well behind the oil filter (iT WAS PUT THERE FOR A PURPOSE!) then put a large capacity pan under the tank (Oh - almost forgot- Take off the oil cap- makes the air pressure less likely to interfere with the drain) when you remove the plug in the oil tank, you will hear a large sucking sound from that plug behind the oil filter- that is removing all the oil from the filter, and you will not need a punch, rags, etc. This is how Porsche intended to have it done. No muss, no fuss- only added work is to remove the wheel.
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Old 06-23-2001, 01:45 PM
Jeff Midili
Join Date: Jun 2001
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The one tool you didn't list is a torque wrench, and it is very important. Notice that almost all the replies posted how much the plugs should be torqued. It is very important that you don't over-torque these plugs, especially the one in the thermostat housing. The housing is aluminum and can crack if you over-torque the plug. I have had to replace my housing because of a bad thermostat and trust me you do not want to get into that! (Funny how a porsche part can have the same part number but be just different enough to cause all kinds of problems, but that's a post for another time!)

Changing the oil is an easy job, and good one to start with.

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