GP964

I installed eibach springs and koni adjustables and got my 90 C2 aligned and corner balanced.

Here's the write up:

Corner Balance: in lbs with 3/4's tank full of gas and me in it.

LF 670 RF 645
LR 1004 RR 969

Front Weight 1315 40% weight dist.
Rear Weight 1973 60% weight dist.

Left Weight 1674 Right Weight 1614

Car Weight 3288 - 201 (driver)= 3087

Fender Height:
LF 24 13/16" RF 24 7/8"
LR 24 9/16" RR 24 3/4"

Wheel size:
Front 17x8.5 Rear 17x10 Chrome RUF's
215/45/17 255/40/17

********Alignment Settings*************

Front:
Left Right
Camber: -1.0 neg -1.0 neg
Caster: +5.0 pos +5.0 pos
Toe in Total: 1/16" inches

Rear:

Left Right
Camber: -1.5 neg -1.5 neg
Toe in Total: 3/32" inches

Does this seem to be correct?
Any suggestions?

Thanks
GP

Jim Michaels

I think corner weights and fender heights are about as good as you can expect to get without moving some weight in the car around. Of course, you could lose 20# of your own, and they would be even better. Tire size in 215/45 front rather than 225/45? Caster of 5 degrees is more than I've ever had, and that much difference in front and rear camber (1.0 vs 1.5) would probably contribute to push on my car. I autocross, so keep the front and rear camber about the same.

GP964

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the response, the alignment settings is for street aggressive (daily driver + some weekend time trials). I didn't want to get track setup. Actually i need to lose 50lbs hehe. What does +5.0 deg of caster do to the car? and is there any reason why they would do camber in the front of -1.0 and -1.5 in the rear?
gp

Jim Michaels

Some say to put in as much caster as you can get (you won't be able to get a whole lot anyway), but they've never been able to get more than about 4.5 degrees on mine (I have about 4 now). I think the spec I read somewhere that I wanted was 4.35 degrees caster. In contrast, the caster spec for my BMW M3 is over 7 degrees.

For most applications a little more camber is recommended for the rear than the front, so your specs fit that popular recommendation. Having a little more camber in the rear (other things equal) will reduce oversteer/increase understeer, so it's probably a safety measure, as a little understeer is usually safer than, or not as scary as, a little oversteer. But many racers and other track drivers like it more neutral, so have similar camber at both ends.

Your specs (including weights and fender heights) look very good and even; better than most people can get; in fact, better than I have right now. Assuming there is no reason not to trust these specs (they can be fudged on the machine for the printout), you should feel good about what they did and your car should feel good to drive. Enjoy.

Bill Gregory

For comparison, here's what mine were last time (this is a more track-oriented setup):

Corner weights:
lf 656, rf 658
lr 974, rr 968

Camber:
lf -2.6, rf -2.6
lr -2.2, rr -2.2

Caster: lf and rf: +3.9

toe:
lf +.14, rf +.15
lr +.23, rr +.24

If you want to see the stock alignment specs, including Carrera RS, they can be seen <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/jfk964/bg_align.htm" target="_blank">here</a>.

GP964

Thanks Jim & Bill.

Wow with that in mind, I suddenly have the urge to run the car at WSIR. Actually the set up was done last April and a couple rechecks since then with no change, but I can't believe I haven't tracked the car with this new set up.

GP

GP964

Hey Bill,

Let me lose 31 lbs from the belly and our cars should weigh the same. hehe

I'll be posting my dyno sheets next, i'd love to see what you guys are coming up with also.

GP