Sagging Engine Bay Insulation
#1
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Hello,
Looking to shore up the insulation above the idle stabilizer valve, etc. Seem to remember Horst describing a good fix in the past, but a search of the archives didn't locate the post.
Horst, can you post your fix again? Or, anyone else that's had a successful fix?
Thanks!
Looking to shore up the insulation above the idle stabilizer valve, etc. Seem to remember Horst describing a good fix in the past, but a search of the archives didn't locate the post.
Horst, can you post your fix again? Or, anyone else that's had a successful fix?
Thanks!
#2
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Randall,
I had to do this on my last P-car and found that the Havy Duty 3M spray adhesive worked great. Don't get the wimpy regular stuff. Make sure it is the heavy duty. Available at Pep Boys/ etc... Make sure you don't get this spray on anything you don't want it on. It sticks pretty much forever.
I took and peeled the matting down so I could get the spray in there real good then soaked the whole area with the stuff and stuck it back into place. It dries, as I recall pretty much on contact.
Good Luck. Glad I could offer you assistance for once.
I had to do this on my last P-car and found that the Havy Duty 3M spray adhesive worked great. Don't get the wimpy regular stuff. Make sure it is the heavy duty. Available at Pep Boys/ etc... Make sure you don't get this spray on anything you don't want it on. It sticks pretty much forever.
I took and peeled the matting down so I could get the spray in there real good then soaked the whole area with the stuff and stuck it back into place. It dries, as I recall pretty much on contact.
Good Luck. Glad I could offer you assistance for once.
#3
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I recently did mine, and used 2 different types of 3M adhesive. On the body, I used 3M Super 90 - this stuff is expensive, about $15 per can! The other (whose name I can't recall right now) was in the same area of the H/W store, but specifically designed for foam and porous materials, and was a bargain @ $13/can; it was 'thicker' than the Super 90.
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Thanks guys! I'll tackle this job next weekend. Will make sure I've got everything well masked in advance. Also good to know it's quick drying. I was thinking I might have to use C-clamps to support the insulation until the adhesive cured.
#5
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Randall, first, I suggest you look at the thing and se if it is in good shape, beside sagging, or mabey it needs to be repalced in to to. If in need of replacement, I suggest that you support the the engine with a floor jack, remove the rear engine motor mounts, and let the thing down about 2-3", that will usually give you enough clearance to replace the whole thing. I used 3-M heavy duty to hold it. I also used my "bridge", which if what you have is in reasonable shape, you can use solely, to keep this thing from falling and to look neat. Go to Lowes, and buy a 1" (mabey 3/4"? I forgot) piece of aliuminum strap. about 4 feet long. Bend it to approximately the curvature of the top of the engine compartment. Take off the ***** or keepers of the the insulation. I painted the aluminum strap a nice flat black. Then take the strap and hold it up against the exposed screws, push it fore and aft, side to side, and you should get little Xes where the screws are (they are at irregular locations) Then go and drill holes there in the strap. You will need to drill holes a little bit bigger that the OD of the inside shoulder of the stock holding plugs. Push the strp up HARD, and screw the plugs in. That will do it. I have found that sparaying additional 3-M and trying to hold it is futile. Seems that once you have used this stuff (or whatever the factory uses) trying to hold it with a new application isn't worth a s**t. Good luck, not too hard.
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Thank you very much for the complete description, Horst. I thought you had a unique fix for the sagging insulation. Very resourceful!