toro

I would really appreciate some advice on how difficult/easy it is to replace the DMF & clutch on my'92 C2. I have it on the best authority that the job needs doing as the clutch is heavy,squeaking badly and is the original at 94000 km....Also the dmf rattles on startup if warm and also when switching off. I have tried all the "other stuff" suggested to other questions on this & the 964 smartgroup forum but the symptoms are getting worse!!! As I am(I hope) a reasonably competent pro aircraft engineer with lots of kit and access to garage pit,ramps etc is it a reasonable DIY repair as the labour is £700-800 ($1000)at a decent independent?? Can you get away with just the gearbox removed? Do you need any special tools? Should you whilst "down there" change the fork & guide tube in any case? What is the special grease talked about for throwout assy??
Oh and p.s. while I am here the power steering pump seal needs doing so is more accessible with the gearbox off?? and how difficult?? Sorry about the long post but I was hanging out for the Bentley manual to be released in order to help myself...Thanks,gracias,grazie,dankeschon,merci.....

speedster 94

hallo
If you have some technical understanding you can do it yourself,at least on a C2 . You need a Car lift and you need a Gearbox-jack and something to put under the Engine (wood beam 170cm long) since you are removing the Front holding point for the Engine/tranny unit.
drive your car on the lift,shut down,disconnect the battery,loosen the rearwheels.
Lift the car up,take off the wheels ,remove the Tranny and Engine cover.(10mm bolts )
place the gearbox jack under the gearbox,unhook the Shiftrod( under Rubberthing 13mm bolt)
undo the Axles on the Gearbox (8mm inbus)tie them up to the body .
remove the Gearboxbolts to the Body in front
(6 bolts 17mm)
undo the Heaterhoses (orange Silicontype)
you can now drop the Gearbox about 2 inches and undo unhook the startercables (10mm and 13 mm)
undo the groundstrap from Body to starter .
undo the reverselightcables from the Gearbox(under a Rubberhat)on the Rightside
Undo the 13mm nuts on the Clutchslavecylinder,tie up to the Body.
Now you can drop the gearbox another 2-4 inches.
you can now acces the axle of the Clutchfork .
On the left side on the line of Engine/tranny
there is a 10mm bolt with a little metal strap
holding a plastic cap ,remove and you see a 6mm
thread . Take a 4inch long 6mm bolt,bolt it in about 5-6 turns and pull out the axle,
Now you put the stand under the ENGINE
Unbolt the Starter and take out.
Place the Gearboxjack under Gearbox and undo the
3 17mm Bolts holding the gearbox to the Engine.
Pull out the Gearbox to the Front.
You should replace the Guidetube and Throwoutbearing to the newer Type and DONT grease them they have a siliconcoating.
If you need a flywheel and clutch ,i just parted a 993 with 15000 KM and have the Parts you need,
harald

toro

Thanks Speedster, but what then?? to dismantle clutch & flywheel?? i.e. are there any special tools, jigs or procedures required?? And particularly with reassembly.

Roland Kunz

Hello

I never droped the trany singulary so I can´t help you there. I know people think it is easier or simpler to drop the trany alone yet with the correct tools you drop the complete assembly faster and safer. OK one argument is you don´t have to renew the engine oil.

Do you need any special tools?

Most are pretty comon. "Specialitys" are the ZXN head bolts on the DMF and a guiding pin for the clutch plate. first can be bought from a good tool store and last can be made from aluminium or wood on a lathe or replaced by a other usable material.
If your trany is out you can messure the needed tool on the original part.

Should you whilst "down there" change the fork & guide tube in any case?

If you have the old setup you have to as the old parts are NLA and you are not going to risk a new job by reusing the old parts. Also renew always the shaft seal inside the guidetube from the trany ( Some 10% chance to fail after job done ). The screws from the guidetube sometimes woun´t come so be prepared to drill them out and have new ones on hand.

What is the special grease talked about for throwout assy??

You need Klüber 5 or similar product for the throwoutfork needle bearings and the pilot bearing.

No grease on new TOB inner bushing ( graphite/silicone ) and on the starter rod ( ceramic ).

Oh and p.s. while I am here the power steering pump seal needs doing so is more accessible with the gearbox off?? and how difficult??

Will help a bit but its a simple job anyway. ( Search some 2 months back for more details )

At 94000 km ( 100 000 km ) you should replace all rubber belts anyway ( Sterrring toth belt, distributor toth belt and the other wedge belts too ).
Also as a regular service comes soon and check/seting the valvelash with the engine out is a blast.

Grüsse

Randall G.

Hi Toro,

Is this the grease you were speaking of? You definitely want to do this, or else you may wind up with corrosion on your input shaft/disc center that causes binding = car sticks in gear.

Roland .... how many times have you had to pull a transmission prematurely because this wasn't done? Can you tell us exactly what sort of lubricant "Olista Longtime 3 Ep" is? I tried to look it up on the 'net, but only found this <a href="http://www.option.se/Optimol1.htm" target="_blank">link in German</a> Thanks!