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Porsche Paint Process

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Old 05-26-2005, 07:24 AM
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sterya
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Default Porsche Paint Process

Having now bought a daily hack to do the school/ work run my '90 C4 964 will only be used for special occasions.....like every evening & weekends! I will soon be going out for quotations for paint spraying, not the entire car but just the usual suspects; front bumper, sills, shark fins etc.

Firstly the car is gloss black paint code 700. She has has touch ups over the years but nothing too drastic...original paint on doors etc looks great. Before I talk to some paint shops I would like to find out the paint process that Porsche used originally, i.e. number of coats, clear laquer etc. I have done a search on the forum with the following seeming to be standard:

'Porsche uses (Glasruit or Sikkens) you will find that the paint is a 2 part paint (epoxy) with one part being the paint and the other being the hardner.'

Is this correct? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Old 05-26-2005, 09:10 AM
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Heirsh
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epoxy? I thought it was lacquer. maybe the clear coat setups are epoxy and the 1 steps are lacquer
Old 05-26-2005, 10:11 AM
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sterya
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I am not sure, the 'Porsche uses (Glasruit or Sikkens) you will find that the paint is a 2 part paint (epoxy) with one part being the paint and the other being the hardner.' came from a thread in the forum through the search facility....basically what I am after is a paint process that would be identical to the make-up of the original paint.
Old 05-26-2005, 12:30 PM
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I doubt the paint that Porsche used 15 years ago is still available. The application technique is also a big factor, and a paint shop cannot duplicate a mass-production process used in car manufacturing. Having said all that, any competent paint shop can produce a perfect match to the existing paint. Black is easier than most to get a good color and gloss match. Avoid cheap paint, and hire a competent painter. You should be very happy with the results.
Old 05-26-2005, 12:32 PM
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Richard Curtis
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In my experience, most paint shops will first spray a sealer coat over the existing paint to ensure proper adhesion of the new paint, and eliminate any possibility of reaction between the existing paint and new paint in case they're incompatible.
Old 05-26-2005, 10:14 PM
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Marc Shaw
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I just had a few spots on my car re-painted - Black paint code 700. He repainted the doors where the mirrors sit as I changed from flags to aero's and did not like the bit of paint gunk left by the square bases of the old mirrors.

He matched the paint perfectly -- but he did comment that black is actually quite hard to match as some blacks have brown, orange, or red in them.......black is not just black!

Marc
Old 05-26-2005, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc Shaw
He matched the paint perfectly -- but he did comment that black is actually quite hard to match as some blacks have brown, orange, or red in them.......black is not just black!

Marc
I had my old 77 Targa's front end repainted... I heard the same thing...
Old 05-27-2005, 05:07 AM
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sterya
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I just had a few spots on my car re-painted - Black paint code 700
Marc,
From this I assume you never had 'entire' panel resprayed, only an area on the panel that was blended in? I suppose because it is not metallic it is easier.
Thanks,
Ryan
Old 05-27-2005, 09:23 AM
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Marc Shaw
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Actually he pulled 3 small dents out of the passenger's door (that I had not noticed but he pointed out were there) and repainted that whole door. He also then just blended the paint in around the mirror base on the driver's door. The 2 rust blisters were at the edge of the front windshield rubber seal so he removed the windshield to fix and then repainted the whole front cowl below the windshield too.

His work is very impressive and I'm quite pleased.

Marc
Old 06-03-2005, 12:04 PM
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Euromagination
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Originally Posted by Marc Shaw
....He matched the paint perfectly -- but he did comment that black is actually quite hard to match as some blacks have brown, orange, or red in them.......black is not just black!
Marc
This is true. ^^^
Black is one of the hardest colors to match since each type of black has a very big change (proportionally) in light reflectivity. I learned all about it while getting my rear bumper repainted on my old "Tuxedo Black" Audi A4 that I had once upon a time in my early college years. Luckily, I just had an Audi Dealership in San Diego do it so I knew I was safe. All of my cars I've owned have been black or charcoal except for the 911, which I just couldn't find in black when I was a buyer. Beautiful color when it's clean.
Another thing is if black is not painted perfectly to match, you may not be able to tell right away, but once the sun does a little work on it, you can see a BIG difference. Definitely choose your painter wisely.
Old 06-03-2005, 12:15 PM
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DarrylH
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Originally Posted by Euromagination
... Definitely choose your painter wisely.
Yeah, darn black, it's a lesson I'm just learning, had my rear decklid resprayed last summer due to exploding fan belt sensor, looked good then, now with a little weathering, somehow it doesn't look quite as well matched as it did originally. You can also see some texture changes across the lid. Now I dunno what to do. Casual glance, looks OK. Closer look, irritates the heck out of me.
Old 06-03-2005, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DarrylH
Yeah, darn black, it's a lesson I'm just learning, had my rear decklid resprayed last summer due to exploding fan belt sensor, looked good then, now with a little weathering, somehow it doesn't look quite as well matched as it did originally. You can also see some texture changes across the lid. Now I dunno what to do. Casual glance, looks OK. Closer look, irritates the heck out of me.
This happened on my old Targa... It looked great when it was new... After about a year in the sun you could see the jitterbug marks left by the sander. The painter was supposed to be one of the best around. I think as the paint weathers and cures it shrinks a little... Either that or they didn't put enough paint on...



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