Clutch problem?
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From: Naaldwijk, The Netherlands
Clutch problem?
Since this week it seems that the clutch may have developed a problem. When driving away in 1st gear, the clutch doesn't come in smoothly, especially with little throttle; it sort of jolts (if that's the right word). Then shifting to 2nd, the same. Going to 3rd, 4th and 5th, no problem whatsoever - gear changes are very smooth. Also, it only happens when the car is cold. Once it's on operating temperature, the effect is gone. Also, if I apply more throttle, the effect is also gone, but hey, I can't drive out of my driveway with half throttle, can I? I'd probably end up in the neighbor's garden 
Anyways, I am curious to see whether someone has an idea what this would be, and what the remedy could be. I am a bit worried though...
Anyways, I am curious to see whether someone has an idea what this would be, and what the remedy could be. I am a bit worried though...
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From: Parafield Gardens
Dear Arthur,
First thing I would recommend is a bleed of the clutch line.
If this does not work then maybe you have a binding slave cylinder.
After this I am afraid it is inside. It is obvious from your description that the clutch is not engaging properly. Could also be the dual mass flywheel but you check all this together if you get to the point of dropping the engine and transmission. I will also answer another point. I very much doubt that you have a LUK DMF installed. Regardless of the documentation I have yet to be able to genuinely confirm that any ROW 964 was ever fitted with the LUK DMF. I hear some late model US versions were but I only have one genuine confirmation of this as well,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
First thing I would recommend is a bleed of the clutch line.
If this does not work then maybe you have a binding slave cylinder.
After this I am afraid it is inside. It is obvious from your description that the clutch is not engaging properly. Could also be the dual mass flywheel but you check all this together if you get to the point of dropping the engine and transmission. I will also answer another point. I very much doubt that you have a LUK DMF installed. Regardless of the documentation I have yet to be able to genuinely confirm that any ROW 964 was ever fitted with the LUK DMF. I hear some late model US versions were but I only have one genuine confirmation of this as well,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
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From: Naaldwijk, The Netherlands
Dear Adrian,
The car had been to the OPC for 140.000 km some 6000 km ago, and the clutch was bled. Could it be it needs to be done again so soon? And the fact that when the cars is warm, it's all ok, does that mean anything?
The car had been to the OPC for 140.000 km some 6000 km ago, and the clutch was bled. Could it be it needs to be done again so soon? And the fact that when the cars is warm, it's all ok, does that mean anything?
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From: Parafield Gardens
Dear Arthur,
If this work has been done then I would not do it again. Warm engine and problem is gone, tends to suggest an internal problem. Sadly this is a symptom of a failing DMF. The problem with the clutch circuit is that there is so little you can do from the outside. Slave cylinder would be worth checking. I cannot imagine it would be a linkage or selector problem. Normally selector problems occur the other way around. Works when cold plays up when hot. The clutch pedal mechanism is not normally affected by temperature. Outside of this I am afraid it is an engine and transmission drop and an internal inspection.
I would certainly take it back to your shop and have their onsite opinion. It is difficult over the internet to diagnose these things,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
If this work has been done then I would not do it again. Warm engine and problem is gone, tends to suggest an internal problem. Sadly this is a symptom of a failing DMF. The problem with the clutch circuit is that there is so little you can do from the outside. Slave cylinder would be worth checking. I cannot imagine it would be a linkage or selector problem. Normally selector problems occur the other way around. Works when cold plays up when hot. The clutch pedal mechanism is not normally affected by temperature. Outside of this I am afraid it is an engine and transmission drop and an internal inspection.
I would certainly take it back to your shop and have their onsite opinion. It is difficult over the internet to diagnose these things,
Ciao,
Adrian
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From: Naaldwijk, The Netherlands
Dear Adrian,
Thanks for your rapid response! I will certainly take it to the shop and have them have a look at it. I had asked them about the clutch several times before and they insisted that all was ok.
I am starting to wonder though, now that the warranty period is over, whether they would change their opinion and tell me I need to get the clutch done... Luckily I have all the items that I asked them to look at in writing, so if they do change opinion, I have something to go back on - I hope.
As for your earlier remark regarding the LUK DMF, I looked up a thread of some time ago, where it seems the consensus was that the DMF was a LUK from somewhere along the N-series engines (62N07138 for the C2). If I recall correctly (can't check as I do not have the car with me at this moment), I have a P-series engine, which would then mean a LUK DMF. But maybe, as you were saying, we can't be sure about it, unless physically checked. Is there a simple way to check this, other than going into the internals?
Then, just out of technical curiosity, if this problem would turn out to be the failing DMF, why would it only occur with 1st and 2nd gear, and not all of them? But maybe I'm asking for way too much technical detail.
Thanks for your rapid response! I will certainly take it to the shop and have them have a look at it. I had asked them about the clutch several times before and they insisted that all was ok.
I am starting to wonder though, now that the warranty period is over, whether they would change their opinion and tell me I need to get the clutch done... Luckily I have all the items that I asked them to look at in writing, so if they do change opinion, I have something to go back on - I hope.
As for your earlier remark regarding the LUK DMF, I looked up a thread of some time ago, where it seems the consensus was that the DMF was a LUK from somewhere along the N-series engines (62N07138 for the C2). If I recall correctly (can't check as I do not have the car with me at this moment), I have a P-series engine, which would then mean a LUK DMF. But maybe, as you were saying, we can't be sure about it, unless physically checked. Is there a simple way to check this, other than going into the internals?
Then, just out of technical curiosity, if this problem would turn out to be the failing DMF, why would it only occur with 1st and 2nd gear, and not all of them? But maybe I'm asking for way too much technical detail.
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From: Parafield Gardens
Dear Arthur,
There is no real way of being 100% sure without checking. I am not going back down this LUK track again. It is all in the archives.
I cannot comment on the warranty idea but it would not be the first time any of us have heard this. However this is not the important issue. You need to find the problem before you get stuck somewhere and need a tow truck,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
There is no real way of being 100% sure without checking. I am not going back down this LUK track again. It is all in the archives.
I cannot comment on the warranty idea but it would not be the first time any of us have heard this. However this is not the important issue. You need to find the problem before you get stuck somewhere and need a tow truck,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
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From: Los Angeles
Arthur-
I am having a very similar problem. The jolt when the clutch engages feels exactly as you describe it. - Heres my story , My clutch and DMF were replaced about a month ago and this has only happened since then. In my case the jolt is only when the car is hot and its completely smooth when its cold . The shop is insisting the problem is in the computer, but they don't have the equipment to prove this or fix it. I had another shop replace the master and slave cylinders. This seemed to help but maybe that was just wishful thinking. I find I am having to pull away with much higher throttle openings than I would like to prevent the car stalling. Don't think the new clutch will last very long at this rate. Please post or let me know if you find out anything.
Craig
I am having a very similar problem. The jolt when the clutch engages feels exactly as you describe it. - Heres my story , My clutch and DMF were replaced about a month ago and this has only happened since then. In my case the jolt is only when the car is hot and its completely smooth when its cold . The shop is insisting the problem is in the computer, but they don't have the equipment to prove this or fix it. I had another shop replace the master and slave cylinders. This seemed to help but maybe that was just wishful thinking. I find I am having to pull away with much higher throttle openings than I would like to prevent the car stalling. Don't think the new clutch will last very long at this rate. Please post or let me know if you find out anything.
Craig
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From: Singapore
Arthur,
You might want to check the condition of the throw-out bearing aka clutch release bearing. It may be worn or damaged thus causing the gear 'stickiness' Another problem may be a rusty spline (input) shaft.
I had the same problem you described last year and after fixing it, the problem dissapeared. My gears now shift like a hot knife slicing thru butter.
993C4 Cab
You might want to check the condition of the throw-out bearing aka clutch release bearing. It may be worn or damaged thus causing the gear 'stickiness' Another problem may be a rusty spline (input) shaft.
I had the same problem you described last year and after fixing it, the problem dissapeared. My gears now shift like a hot knife slicing thru butter.
993C4 Cab
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