Uh-oh! I replaced the distributor belt, but...
05-02-2005, 12:08 PM
#1
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Uh-oh! I replaced the distributor belt, but...
... I'm wondering whether I reassembled it correctly.
The belt gear on the primary shaft has an inner slot to index it with a key on the shaft, and there are two washers on the shaft at the belt gear - a flat one and a slightly conical one.
When I pulled things apart, the conical washer was below the belt gear and I thought the flat washer was above the belt gear. When I put things back together, I put the conical washer below and put the flat washer on top, and then noticed that with the flat washer on top I could not see the slot/key way in the belt gear, so I concluded (without verifying - arrrgghh) that the inner diameter of the flat washer was too small for the shaft with the key on it to pass through, so I put the flat washer on the bottom also.
Anyone remember where the flat washer goes, above or below the belt gear?
Thanks!
The belt gear on the primary shaft has an inner slot to index it with a key on the shaft, and there are two washers on the shaft at the belt gear - a flat one and a slightly conical one.
When I pulled things apart, the conical washer was below the belt gear and I thought the flat washer was above the belt gear. When I put things back together, I put the conical washer below and put the flat washer on top, and then noticed that with the flat washer on top I could not see the slot/key way in the belt gear, so I concluded (without verifying - arrrgghh) that the inner diameter of the flat washer was too small for the shaft with the key on it to pass through, so I put the flat washer on the bottom also.
Anyone remember where the flat washer goes, above or below the belt gear?
Thanks!
05-02-2005, 12:13 PM
#2
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05-02-2005, 01:00 PM
#3
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Jean-Pierre,
unfortunately that procedure does not specify the washer sequence - it just says look carefully when you take things apart.
unfortunately that procedure does not specify the washer sequence - it just says look carefully when you take things apart.
Last edited by Dave R.; 05-02-2005 at 05:22 PM.
05-02-2005, 04:09 PM
#6
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From the top the order is belt sprocket, fiber washer, spacer, spacer, spacer (the number of spacers is shaft dependent), drive gear. There should be nothing above the belt sprocket so you are okay.
05-02-2005, 11:06 PM
#7
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My thanks to all who responded, both in this thread and by private email.
Upshot:
Both washers under the belt sprocket on the primary shaft is correct, so I'm OK.
For those of you with two washers, one flat and one curved like mine (from Jason's post it sounds like there might be different configurations in circulation), the correct order appears to be either
1) sprocket - curved washer - flat washer - bearing, OR
2) sprocket - flat washer - curved washer - bearing (BUT in #2, the curved washer must be placed with the convex side facing the bearing so that the curved washer contacts the inner race of the bearing and not the outer race or the bearing seal... which makes sense if you think about what spins and what doesn't).
Edit - #2 was the original sequence in my distributor.
-Dave
Upshot:
Both washers under the belt sprocket on the primary shaft is correct, so I'm OK.
For those of you with two washers, one flat and one curved like mine (from Jason's post it sounds like there might be different configurations in circulation), the correct order appears to be either
1) sprocket - curved washer - flat washer - bearing, OR
2) sprocket - flat washer - curved washer - bearing (BUT in #2, the curved washer must be placed with the convex side facing the bearing so that the curved washer contacts the inner race of the bearing and not the outer race or the bearing seal... which makes sense if you think about what spins and what doesn't).
Edit - #2 was the original sequence in my distributor.
-Dave
Last edited by Dave R.; 05-05-2005 at 01:17 PM.
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05-04-2005, 01:59 PM
#8
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How bad was the repair? How many hours did it take you? Would you do it again, or just send it off to be rebuilt? Part of me wants to do the repair, just for my own knowledge, but given the number of hours it can take, I am better off just working and paying someone else to do it. Of course, then I won't be able to say I fixed it myself, which is probably worth more than money. Your suggestions are appreciated.
05-04-2005, 06:07 PM
#9
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To me, fixing it myself was worth more than money. I enjoyed the work and the challenge. Took me probably 6+ hours without rushing, would take less the next time around. I'd do it again. For me down time was an important consideration since my car is a daily driver. I'd rather spend a long weekend afternoon tinkering with the car than arranging alternate transportation during the week while the distributor ships out and back.
I ended up acquiring a gear puller to get the helical drive gear off after drilling the pin, I think I got a burr in there when drilling - used 220 grit sandpaper to deburr after I got it off.
I drifted the case-halves locating pin at the secondary end as some others have done, I think that method is superior to removing the secondary shaft.
I had no trouble removing the distributor from the engine block, putting it back was more work because the new O-ring gasket provided a snugger fit. I used a socket extension and a mallet to tap it nicely back into position.
I ended up acquiring a gear puller to get the helical drive gear off after drilling the pin, I think I got a burr in there when drilling - used 220 grit sandpaper to deburr after I got it off.
I drifted the case-halves locating pin at the secondary end as some others have done, I think that method is superior to removing the secondary shaft.
I had no trouble removing the distributor from the engine block, putting it back was more work because the new O-ring gasket provided a snugger fit. I used a socket extension and a mallet to tap it nicely back into position.
Last edited by Dave R.; 05-04-2005 at 06:50 PM.
05-04-2005, 08:22 PM
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Was there a kit you used, or is there a part list you would recommend for the DIY'r who is going to rebuild the distributor? I might as well replace everything in there that might go wrong since it is a bit of a pain to have to do twice. Thanks.
05-04-2005, 09:00 PM
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I just did mine this weekend - took about 3 hours.
Fairly straight forward job - but drilling out the pin took some patience - I center punched it each end, then drilled a pilot hole half way from either end. Then increased the drill size, till it just fell out.
Getting out the connector through the hole was very easy, the wires can run underneath the white plastic cover if you lift it up slightly; gently push the three wires under it while rotating the shaft, it then gives you plenty of room to free the conector.
Think I could do it in less than an hour now. Just remember to keep the washers in the right order when you remove them, place then onto a coat hanger wire or something similar.
when refitting the pin, I pushed a tapered centre punch into the hole to compress the assembly and slid the new pin through - dremmeled off the excess and then mushroomed the ends. All very easy.
You will need a Dremmel though.
Good luck
Ade
Fairly straight forward job - but drilling out the pin took some patience - I center punched it each end, then drilled a pilot hole half way from either end. Then increased the drill size, till it just fell out.
Getting out the connector through the hole was very easy, the wires can run underneath the white plastic cover if you lift it up slightly; gently push the three wires under it while rotating the shaft, it then gives you plenty of room to free the conector.
Think I could do it in less than an hour now. Just remember to keep the washers in the right order when you remove them, place then onto a coat hanger wire or something similar.
when refitting the pin, I pushed a tapered centre punch into the hole to compress the assembly and slid the new pin through - dremmeled off the excess and then mushroomed the ends. All very easy.
You will need a Dremmel though.
Good luck
Ade
05-04-2005, 10:41 PM
#12
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The bearings are sealed bearings, so if they are in good shape there is not much to rebuild other than change the belt.
Parts:
helical gear retaining pin, 930.602.922.00
distributor belt, 930.602.134.00
distributor O-ring, 911.602.102.00
I got the pin from Pelicanparts.com, and the O-ring and belt from thepartsbin.com.
The pin is copper or copper alloy [edit - steel with a copper coating] - I did not dremel the new one off, I just inserted it and then squeezed it in a vise to mushroom the ends, and did not worry about grinding them down. They are not going to hit anything.
With respect to the washers inside the primary distributor, well, see my earlier post in this thread.
As for the four or five flat washers outside the distributor on the primary shaft between the helical drive gear and the first bearing: I really don't think the order matters.
One washer had a slightly smaller diameter than the others and was located nearest the helical drive gear, the others had different thicknesses. However, I suspect the reason they are different thickness is because they are shims whose cumulative thickness produces the right amount of tension on the bearings (the curved washer on the primary shaft inside the distributor acts as a spring), and they are chosen/selected to provide the right amount of total thickness. Order has no effect on this function, and I see no other function that those washers serve.
As you can see, there are different ways to approach the repair - pick your poison.
Parts:
helical gear retaining pin, 930.602.922.00
distributor belt, 930.602.134.00
distributor O-ring, 911.602.102.00
I got the pin from Pelicanparts.com, and the O-ring and belt from thepartsbin.com.
The pin is copper or copper alloy [edit - steel with a copper coating] - I did not dremel the new one off, I just inserted it and then squeezed it in a vise to mushroom the ends, and did not worry about grinding them down. They are not going to hit anything.
With respect to the washers inside the primary distributor, well, see my earlier post in this thread.
As for the four or five flat washers outside the distributor on the primary shaft between the helical drive gear and the first bearing: I really don't think the order matters.
One washer had a slightly smaller diameter than the others and was located nearest the helical drive gear, the others had different thicknesses. However, I suspect the reason they are different thickness is because they are shims whose cumulative thickness produces the right amount of tension on the bearings (the curved washer on the primary shaft inside the distributor acts as a spring), and they are chosen/selected to provide the right amount of total thickness. Order has no effect on this function, and I see no other function that those washers serve.
As you can see, there are different ways to approach the repair - pick your poison.
Last edited by Dave R.; 05-05-2005 at 08:10 PM.
05-05-2005, 01:50 PM
#15
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Rennlist sponser Rennsport Systems (Steve Weiner) or see this thread (titled "Dual Distributor rebuild"), https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...stributor+belt