Finally got this done. I installed the relay kit from Daniel Stern and ran new 12 AWG wiring for power circuits. Based on the wiring upgrade I calculated an improvement of 1.5v to the bulbs over the stock 16AWG wiring. Maybe more considering all the connection in the central electrics and stalk but I didn't measure actual improvement. This equates to about 30% improvement in light output using the charts on Daniel Sterns site.

Here's a few pics of the interesting bits.
- the relays and bracket I used to mount beside the special canadian lubrication
- kit came with male H4 plugs which I used to trigger the relays. No cutting and easy to put the H5s back on if I need to
- wiring in progress
- good spot to mount the relays, accessible, clean, easy to work on and loose carpet covers nicely without cutting

I would highly recommend the kit from Daniel Stern. I got my trim rings painted from a rennlist sponsor bumperplugs.com, I should be receiving these in the next day or so. The hardest part waas running the big wires through the existing grommets to get into the trunk carpartment but can be done with some elbow grease and lubrication

 

How can I reach Daniel Stern? I want a set of those relays.
Thanks, 540964
pdbry@hotmail.com

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/

and email is dastern@torque.net

 

Craig,
Have you noticed a big difference in night visibility? I'm thinking of doing the exact same change you have, but am still not excited about running lots of wires...... (my original plan was to put the H4's in, and put the HID ballast/bulbs, but that Stern site didn't have very good things to say about it, so first i'll put the H4 with regular halogens in.....)

 

Eric - that was my thought to...upgrade from H5's to H4's and see if that was enough. If not, go to HID's but you're right, he does not think much of them.

I have my H4's ready to paint and install.....do I really need to run wires or can I just use an adapter plug and pop them straight in? I would imagine if I use any bulbs lareger than stock (I ordered some 80/100W bulbs) then new wires would be required for the load.

Marc

 

I haven't done any night driving with the H4 system yet. When I had one H5 and one H4 installed, the H4 side seemed brighter but the pattern was different too.

I am using standard 55/60 watt bulbs which are probably adequate for my needs. I'll run this for a couple of months and if the light is still poor I can always install higher wattage bulbs.

Marc, you should be able to plug in 55/60 H4 bulbs without upgrading your wiring since that is basically the same load on the stock wiring circuit. I would purchase the H4 female and H5 male connectors from DS and just make a short adaptor that you can plug right in. As you point out, I would stay away from higher wattage bulbs unless you want lots of very warm wire running around your dash and central electrics.

The wiring was extra work but should give me that extra 30% in lighting efficiency without installing higher wattage bulbs. I am thinking about measuring the actual volt drop by plugging in my H5 and making the measurements to see how close my calculations were.

 

Marc,
Can you explain to me the deal with the trim rings? The H4 assembly comes with either a chrome, or primed ring. On top of that you need an additional trim ring (and additional screws)?

I'm going to run the relays just because the light switch, and high beam stalk are going to be harder to replace than it will be for me to run the relays now, and hope the switches don't wear out....... it's a theory anyway.........

 

Eric - I did not really understand until I saw it so I'll post a fiew pictures later.

The H4's have either a chrome ring or a primed ring (mine is primed in matte black). You can either install the chrome ring as it or disassemble the whole deal and paint the primed ring. The other option is to buy another primed over-ring and paint that and then fit it over either the chrome or other primed ring. The assembly and inner ring (chrome or primed) attach using a single screw in the bottom centre. The screw however is very cool as down the centre (from the outside or head end) it is also threaded to accept another smaller screw that holds the outer ring, if you install one.

I elected to buy the extra outer primed ring and paint that as I did not want to take the entire assembly apart to paint the attached primed ring.

Hope that helps - I'll get a few pictures of the parts (none are painted or installed yet) and post them so it might make more sense.

Marc

 

ditto for me. I bought the outer trim rings and had them painted. It doesn't look finished without these IMO

 

Thanks for clearing that up. I will be sure to order the outer rings also.
Thanks

 

Eric - photos of H4 with matte primed trim ring, outer screw with centre hole for inner screw, and primed outer trim ring. Fits better once screwed on.

Marc

 

where did you source the H4's? Was the outter trim ring included or was it purchased at an extra cost? Is there a part numbe for this ring? How much did Bumperplugs charge you to paint the rings?
Thanks

 

I got my H4's off EBay from MSRoadRace (www.msroadrace.com). All new original Porsche parts.

Trim rings and screws for them were extra from Pelican Parts (www.pelicanparts.com). All parts available at Pelican. Look at: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item1. Also available at Performance Products (www.performanceparoducts.com) - A Rennlist sponsor.

H4's: 631-113-02
Trim rings: 631-141-00
Outer screw: 631-132-00
Inner screw: 631-033-00

Probably a good idea to install new seals at the same time.

Marc

 

mindovermotorsports.com for the H4s (Bosch), trim rings and hardware

and bumperplugs was $107.00 USD including shipping to Canada

 

Craig, is it usefull to use Silverstar High Performance Halogen bulbs in your H4?
(cfr. This thread)

Greetz