Changing steering rack boots
#1
Track Day
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I need to change the rubber boots on my steering rack as they are currently split. I know I'll need an alignment after the fact but how hard is the actual replacement? Any pointers, procedures or helpful hints? Do I need any special tools?
Any information would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Doug
90 C4 Cab
Dublin, OH USA
Any information would be greatly appreciated!
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Thanks!
Doug
90 C4 Cab
Dublin, OH USA
#2
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Hi Doug,
Just done this so here are the two pages of the manual that were the most useful.
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Tajmanual1.gif" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Tajmanual1.gif</a>
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/tajmanual2.gif" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/tajmanual2.gif</a>
The other this I would say is use washing up liquid to get the new boots on. If you tighten any locknuts against the rack shafts, then hold the shafts with a wrench to prevent tensioning/twisting the rack as I did, which results in stiff steering. I have done any earlier post on stiff steering for more info.
Remove the track end from the hub if you can, but you will need a ball joint seperator. I did not have one, and had to take it apart at the adjusting rod. As per the manual, the orientation of the fork is important, although I found the diagram confusing. They have taken a view from below. Apart from that, Have fun, one side took 90 mins, the other 15, as it was easier once you know what you are doing.
From memory, you will need a 19mm, 15mm, and if you go for the rack end, a spanner that I have used for a bicycle centre bracket fitted (around 32 mm).
Taj.
Just done this so here are the two pages of the manual that were the most useful.
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Tajmanual1.gif" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Tajmanual1.gif</a>
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/tajmanual2.gif" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/tajmanual2.gif</a>
The other this I would say is use washing up liquid to get the new boots on. If you tighten any locknuts against the rack shafts, then hold the shafts with a wrench to prevent tensioning/twisting the rack as I did, which results in stiff steering. I have done any earlier post on stiff steering for more info.
Remove the track end from the hub if you can, but you will need a ball joint seperator. I did not have one, and had to take it apart at the adjusting rod. As per the manual, the orientation of the fork is important, although I found the diagram confusing. They have taken a view from below. Apart from that, Have fun, one side took 90 mins, the other 15, as it was easier once you know what you are doing.
From memory, you will need a 19mm, 15mm, and if you go for the rack end, a spanner that I have used for a bicycle centre bracket fitted (around 32 mm).
Taj.
#3
Track Day
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Taj,
Thanks A lot! This is exactly the information I needed. Looks like I'll be busy this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.
Doug
90 C4 Cab
Dublin, OH
Thanks A lot! This is exactly the information I needed. Looks like I'll be busy this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.
Doug
90 C4 Cab
Dublin, OH
#5
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If your alignment is good now, you won't need a new one. Just make sure you take measurements prior to dis-assembly. Put it back together with threads in the same position. I've done this when replacing the steering rack.
#7
Nordschleife Master
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LOL
Just loosen the inner adjustment nut only on the tie-rod, count the amount of turns to get the tie-rod end off, then reserve the process when you're done.
The biggest PITA for me was installing the rubber bushing on the skinny end of the boot. You need to remove this piece from the old boot. It is what keeps the boot in place on the tie-rod end.
You need to remove the lower cover. Use dish soap to help the wide end of the boot slip over the lip on the rack.
Have a nice ball joint tool to remove the tie-rod from the wheel carrier w/o ruining the ball joint covers.
Just loosen the inner adjustment nut only on the tie-rod, count the amount of turns to get the tie-rod end off, then reserve the process when you're done.
The biggest PITA for me was installing the rubber bushing on the skinny end of the boot. You need to remove this piece from the old boot. It is what keeps the boot in place on the tie-rod end.
You need to remove the lower cover. Use dish soap to help the wide end of the boot slip over the lip on the rack.
Have a nice ball joint tool to remove the tie-rod from the wheel carrier w/o ruining the ball joint covers.
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#8
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Since he hasn't reported back my guess is he is still under there trying to get that tight rubber in place. Maybe if there are someone nearby they could pop in and check? He might be stuck or damaged his back or something.