Clutch master cylinder vs. just the boot
#16
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#17
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Jason, you are truly a wealth of information. It seems hard to locate your older (2005 tag on the photo) posts, so I'll need to start searching just your posts from now on. Any chance you can point me to the clutch slave thread you referenced?
Is there any chance that someone has found a replacement clutch slave cylinder rubber boot that will work? If not, does anyone have an old clutch slave cylinder that I can use the rubber boot from?
Is there any chance that someone has found a replacement clutch slave cylinder rubber boot that will work? If not, does anyone have an old clutch slave cylinder that I can use the rubber boot from?
#18
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The first time I removed the boot I did so by launching the clutch slave cylinder piston across the garage. I may have written a detailed DIY with photos but the gist of it was;
1. Unbolt clutch slave cylinder from transmission bellhousing.
2. Press clutch pedal without thinking.
3. Realize something is wrong.
4. Try to collect all the brake fluid that is now leaking from the car onto the floor.
5. Locate piston, boot and star washer on other side of garage.
The 2nd time I did so on purpose with a small flathead screwdriver. You just have to bend back a few of the stars on the washer and then you can pull it out. Your boot might be too torn for the 1st method so maybe go with method #2?
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Aha!
So now that it's out, I'll attempt a GOOP repair, but am curious if the 944 slave boot would fit?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=390901968947
So now that it's out, I'll attempt a GOOP repair, but am curious if the 944 slave boot would fit?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=390901968947
#21
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Ok - I have found a rubber dust cover for the master -
Tilton rebuild kit for their .75 master cylinder will work-
Obtained / ordered mine through Summit ( no Affil)
You have to buy the whole rebuild kit - about $22 - The dust cover does not have the inner raised lip to help hold it in place - but it is longer than the stock one so I don't see this as an issue -
Beats springing for a whole new master -
Pics are of the new dust cover mounted and of the full kit - pieces and parts we can't use -
Hope this info is of help to someone
Tilton rebuild kit for their .75 master cylinder will work-
Obtained / ordered mine through Summit ( no Affil)
You have to buy the whole rebuild kit - about $22 - The dust cover does not have the inner raised lip to help hold it in place - but it is longer than the stock one so I don't see this as an issue -
Beats springing for a whole new master -
Pics are of the new dust cover mounted and of the full kit - pieces and parts we can't use -
Hope this info is of help to someone
#23
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Hi Gus,
Do you think the boot can be installed with the master cylinder in situ? It looks like by removing the locking clip and loosening the master cylinder retaining nuts, it might be possible to maneuver the pushrod off its pin, and install the new boot.
Do you think the boot can be installed with the master cylinder in situ? It looks like by removing the locking clip and loosening the master cylinder retaining nuts, it might be possible to maneuver the pushrod off its pin, and install the new boot.
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Bobby T -
It looks like it might be a possibility. I know the boot will slide over the rod end of the master ( slow with care) - I have not tried while mounted though. - but am getting ready to replace some hose in that area and will need to pull all pedals so will give you some feed back shortly.
It looks like it might be a possibility. I know the boot will slide over the rod end of the master ( slow with care) - I have not tried while mounted though. - but am getting ready to replace some hose in that area and will need to pull all pedals so will give you some feed back shortly.
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Yes and No, but ended up pulling pedal assembly and replacing bushings also. I still don't have a good high. Lurch release point though. My release is near the bottom, which is not great. Because of this I need to keep the clutch as air free as possible(bleed often)- to make this easier I added a clutch slave bleed extension (stainless line). I ran the longer bleed line up into the engine compartment for easy access.
Someone on Renn suggested that my low release point may be because I have a GT3 clutch and pressure plate as he had same and also shared issue.
Someone on Renn suggested that my low release point may be because I have a GT3 clutch and pressure plate as he had same and also shared issue.
#28
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Originally Posted by Gus
Yes and No, but ended up pulling pedal assembly and replacing bushings also. I still don't have a good high. Lurch release point though. My release is near the bottom, which is not great. Because of this I need to keep the clutch as air free as possible(bleed often)- to make this easier I added a clutch slave bleed extension (stainless line). I ran the longer bleed line up into the engine compartment for easy access.
Someone on Renn suggested that my low release point may be because I have a GT3 clutch and pressure plate as he had same and also shared issue.
Someone on Renn suggested that my low release point may be because I have a GT3 clutch and pressure plate as he had same and also shared issue.