Marc Shaw

Hi,

I took my foorboard out this weekend to replace it (okay, plywood floor in a high performance sports car -- what were they thinking?? ). I got a nice aluminum one from Rennline and all went well except the bolts for the accelerator stop were frozen and I had to cut them off - that left no way of installing the stop on the new floor -- LockTite to the rescue...

While I was grovelling around down there I noticed the rubber boot for what I think is the clutch master cylinder is cracked so I want to replace it. My clutch was replaced about 20 000 km ago and is quite smooth but fairly heavy. I am wondering if replacing the master cylinder would make the clutch a bit lighter or should I just replace the rubber boot and regrease it all - or is a bleed in order?

I can find the master cylinder at Pelican (p.n. L-116-237-50) but not just the boot so if the boot can't be bought seperately I may not have a choice and have to replace the whole cylinder.

Any suggestions? As always, many thanks for the help!

Marc.

p.s. attached photo shows the rubber cylinder boot that is cracked - I forgot to take a picture before I left for work so I must admit that this one is from the excellent p-car web site (http://p-car.com/diy/pedal/)

p.p.s. any suggestions for anything else I should do down there while I've got the floorboard off too?

garrett376

just for completeness sake... that's the clutch MASTER cylinder...

garrett376

didn't want you to buy the wrong part!!

Marc Shaw

garrett376 - oh, okay....thanks -- maybe that is why I could not find it...

Marc

(gotta get me the workshop manuals but a little pricey!).

DaveK

I know this doesn't answer the question, but I've got to ask :

Isn't the floorboard usually covered by the carpet? I can accept aluminium pedals (I've been tempted myself) - but changing the (hidden) floorboard for an aluminium one seems to be taking things a bit far!

What made you change it?

Marc Shaw

In a word -- rot.

I'm not going for superlight (if so, the best place would be for me to lose a few pounds before the car ) but the previous owner drove year 'round (snow, rain, etc) as I have been doing so the floorboard was starting to rot, not from any leaks, just water and snow off shoes and boots.

Marc

p.s. The reason I knew was one of the many buyer's guides I read before buying suggested checking it....

bhensarl

As far as heaviness of the clutch is concerned, you may want to try bleeding the clutch slave cylinder. It's been thrown around on here a few times, so a search should net you some handy tips.
Brian

Marc Shaw

Indycam - well, likely you're right but plywood?? That sounds like a 1970's MG not a 1990's P-car It should have been maple, or ash....some classy wood, not just plywood. No, I don't want to change the whole cyliner for a cracked boot but, even though it is not outside, there is a heck of a lot of dirt under there - fallen off shoes likely and I can't see how it getting in the cylinder can be good for it. If changing the whole master cylinder will not make the clutch lighter than I may just leave well enough alone and not worry about any dirt on the cylinder arm.

Brian - yes, thanks. I'd read about bleeding slave cylinder on top of engine and sounds like a pig to do - you have to be a contortionist by the sound of it...but if I'm not mistaken, just bleeding the slave will also bleed the master....yes?

Thanks to you both for the suggestions (eventually I'll learn enough to contribute back to the group and not just sponge off the group's collective knowledge ).

Marc

bhensarl

Don't worry about sponging, Marc. I'm still sponging! It's just that every once in a while I can answer a question for a new guy that I asked while I was a new(er) guy.

Brian

JasonAndreas

Call it total speculation but in a severe accident would it not be beneficial to have a wooden floorboard that will break and dissipate energy instead of metal floorboard that will just completely destroy every bone from your hips downs?

Marc Shaw

Jason - I think if that were the case, cars would be made of all wood, not metal! Really, I would be more concerned in your scenario about splinters and wood chunks being embedded in my legs from a wood panel that shatters than a metal floorboard that will just bend but stay put.

Anyway -- on a more cheerful note, I got the rubber boot off and will hit the NAPA store tomorrow to try to get a replacement. I'll save bleedng the slave cylinder for the weekend.

Marc

anewbill

As far as I know, the dust boot is not available separately. I was able to repair a rip in mine with some black silicon sealant. The repair has held up well for the past 6 months.

Marc Shaw

If the boot is not available seperately, I was thinking of trying to repair it like anewbill suggested - I was thinking of SuperGlue but it might not be flexible enough so the silicone sealant might work better.

Marc

Marc Shaw

Hey,

Update - got it all fixed. Tried GOOP one the old dust boot and just made a mess so I went looking for a new dust boot.

Went to NAPA - no help.

Went to Auto Parts Plus and got a clutch slave kit for some random car....but checked and the dust boot is the perfect size. Pitched the new cylinder in the trash and installed the new dust boot as that is all I wanted.

The new one is just hair (5 mm) longer and wider (2 mm) at cylinder end (fat end) so fits snug, but not tight. To be sure I zip-tied the upper end around the cylinder in place - the bottom end at the end of the shaft is perfect.

Would have snapped a photo but forgot....

It is a Raybestos brand - PG Plus CSK437 (clutch slave kit). CDN$19

Thanks for the help....Marc

pi5tolpete

I was successful in repairing the rubber bellows boot that covers the shift linkage universal by using Household GOOP. I was careful to let it full cure and during installation made sure that I held firm the rip as it went over the big part. Looks to have done the trick. My next options was the black silicone, but not necessary now.

However, my clutch slave boot is torn completely round, and though that this could be a replacement vs repair. I can't seem to be able to remove it, as if the boot is installed during manufacturing. Will update if successful.