Richard Curtis

What Chris said. It helps to drill it out using a slighter smaller size drill bit (smaller than the roll pin). that prevents you from enlarging the drill pin hole. Once you've drilled about 3/4 way through the original roll pin, it's very easy to drive out. Note that the pin is tapered, though. don't forget to mushroom (or peen) the new roll pin once installed.

Thomas Owen

Anyone have the Porsche part # for the roll pin? I have looked in PET but can not find it.

I want to swap out the belt this week and will document the process with pictures.
Thanks -

garrett376

Distributor Gear Pin, 911 (1974-89)****[Photo]
H-602-922-00
$1.05

From Pelican Parts.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...igniti_pg6.htm

JasonAndreas

And don't follow the instructions over at p-car.com, exactly... Instead follow the tips given by alan911sc and John Walker. It will only take you 90 minutes at most on your first time and not 6 hours. The trick is to knock out the guide pins and slide the belt out and not to bother cutting the sealing cap or removing the secondary shaft. I modified the two photos from Brian Smith's article on p-car and added two blue/purple arrows (ignore the yellow and red arrows). The arrows point to the two guide pins that you knock/punch out so that you no longer need to remove both shafts which would normally require you to permanently mangle the distributor bottom sealing cap.

Chris M.

Great tips. Hour and a half sounds a lot better.

c

HODY905

Been reading everyone's input with respect to the distributor vent kit. I have a RS America with headers and no heat. So the air pipe that the tube gets connected to has been removed. Should I assume that I can't install this kit and plan to repalce the belt on a schedule basis?

BS911

One of these days I might actually spend time to get around and update my directions... or just redirect to the newer methods. When I first did mine and wrote it up, there was very little to go off of so I took the extremely cautious route. Although, everything I do working on my car seems to be "the long route." I just recently turned a fan belt change into a multi-day event requiring the use of a Dremel cutting wheel to get seized bolts out, spending 20 minutes with my "magnet-on-a-coat-hangar-wire" tool getting metal bits of Dremel cut bolts out from under the crank pulley, buying new bolts, getting my magnet again to get the new bolts out from under the pulley, blah biddy blah blah blah.

garrett376

You can (and should) install the kit - just need to do so in a different location. You can drill a hole anywhere in the shroud covering the engine where positive pressure will blow air through. I'd tap off whatever block-off plate has been installed in the place of the regular air outlet that used to go to the rear blower fan on your car. Take a pic of your engine bay and we can better recommend a spot. You'll just need a longer air hose since the vent kit's hose is shorter and you'll be running it a longer distance. Hope that makes sense!

HODY905

To Garrett376 and all you Rennlisters: thanks for your help and information. I ordered the kit from from Pelican last night. Thanks to you all!

Heirsh

Looking at my 90 c2 the first time I felt it had this vent kit installed. Looking a second time I realize that they took off the rear taillight vent and put it on the distributor. Fine for the distributor, bad for the light assemblies. Done at a dealership too from the records. /shrug

So my question is would they have simply gotten the air for the taillights from a different location that I couldnt see normally? Did this vent originally go into a t which then went to the left and right light assemblies and the t being inside the hole where the light vent tube normally went?

I have a bently and enthusiasts on the way, but like anyone else, I'm eager to get things going.

Lots of great info on this site. Without it I'd be at a mechanics mercy. I have some other problems I am working through, but if I can't I'll be posting for help!

Thanks guys. Nothing like being back in a 911.

Thomas Owen

I just completed the drive belt replacement and found the most difficult part was getting the distributor out of the car. Man was it stuck. Using the tips that Jason provided above made the replacement very simple, but I need to point out that you only need to drive out the pin on the secondary side, not on both sides. Once the secondary pin is driven into the housing you can rotate the halves around the secondary shaft and insert the new belt. Once the halves are back together you drive the pin back down to it's original place.
Good luck -

mshobe

In case anyone else stumbles upon this thread "from the future": I'd like to confirm the work was indeed about 20 minutes, all in, mostly because I had to fudge cutting the hole in the air guide with a dremel tool. ugly but effective cutting, and I now feel positive air pressure coming from the new connector. should be all set.