MisterRisky

They kit I bought had those as well. Some folks buy just the gaiter (boot) and grease. For them it is very important to make sure they don't damage the cap, clips, or circlip. I prefer having the kit because getting parts takes so long I would rather pay an extra $10 per boot and know that I won't have to wait a week for a new retaining clip or cap. I have enough left over parts from doing 3 of mine that if I ever have to do another I will probably just order the boot.

Let us know how the work goes this weekend.

dfinnegan

I have one that I can share with you, but I'd like to have it back. It's broken and represents a mistake I made in re-assembly. I like to keep it around as a desk weight and reminder to be smart and double check my work!

If you are willing to send it back I'm happy to send it along.

DaveK

It looks like it won't be this weekend - the puller isn't here yet. Might turn up tomorrow but if not it will have to wait until next weekend.

DaveK

Did this today. As the previous posts say - not difficult at all, although a little fiddly. There clearly is a knack to getting the gaiter over the lip of the inner / outer joints - and although I got both on I'm sure there was a quicker way!

I did use cable ties as a couple of other people have done. The metal clips are tricky to get in place - after much trying I resorted to cable ties which worked straight away.

I know one of the earlier posts says to put the 6 bolts in before attaching the gaiter - and although I agree that makes sense, I was cursing when I then tried to get the gaiter in place!

Only other point - although my gaiters came with the gold cap and circlip - they were clearly not for my car. Circlip and gold cap were too big. Gaiters were fortunately the correct size though.

Edit : Meant to say - I didn't need a puller. A single light tap with a rubber mallet was all it took.

MisterRisky

Fantastic! Glad you didn't need a puller. Good job knocking that out!

24FPS

bump-worthy

that puller is ****!

robin & chris

carlskisWP

Reading through this old CV boot replacement DIY I think I'm ready to go. One question for the C4 owners that have done this for the REAR boots - are the hex bolts that attach the axle to the tranny M8 or M10? Looking at the parts cat it shows M8 for both the front and rear bolts for a C4 (M10 for the rears on a C2). Can a C4 owner confirm this? I already ordered the M8 bolts from Pelican, so I hope the catalog is correct. Thanks much

altarchsa

Check your existing bolts to assure that they're hex bolts. Later bolts are a 12 point star pattern, not hex. They're similar to a torx, but not quite the same. I have not found a tool that fits them exactly, and you may have to order one because it is not likely available from the local auto parts store.

If you try using a hex tool, you may strip the 12 point, especially if they have been in there a long time. If that happens, locate a large Easy Out that's a tight fit, drive it all the way into the head of the bolt and it should come out.

Another bit of advice from a C4 owner who has done this MANY times, including just yesterday when I replaced my second rear wheel bearing, You don't need to work from under the car. If you remove the wheel, you can put some long extensions together to extend all the way out past the hub and work from beside the fender, sitting on a nice comfy stool. No dirt in the face, like when you work underneath, either.

Good luck.

altarchsa

P.S..

Rotate the hub as you go to work on the bolt that's on top, at 12 o'clock. Less bending of the boot is required. Also, it you use the long extension suggestion and work from beside the car, you can use a hammer to drive the hex tool in and bottom it out before you put a ratchet on. Tends to loosen the bolt too, and results in fewer stripped bolts when first removing them.

PelicanParts.com

The M8's are correct for the C4

carlskisWP

Thanks Pelican (Wayne?) for the update. Your order confirm email had listed the m8 bolts as for the C4 front, which is what got me wondering about the rears.

altachasa: thanks for the tips. the one about tapping the hex socket into the bolt to seat it is a good one to remember as i've been sloppy on that in the past. I was actually planning to change the boots with the wheels on and the car up on ramps as i don't like working under a car with just jacks supporting it. So the long extensions sound good.

PelicanParts.com

No problem! When do you plan to tackle this project? Would be great to get updates on how it goes

Mark / Pelican Parts

carlskisWP

Put new rear CV boots on today. The info in this thread really helped.

A few thoughts - definitely a greasy project, it gets all over tools and everything else. I needed my gear puller to get the inner CV joint off. Biggest pain was getting the clamps and old boots off. I used cable ties for the new boots as others have recommended. If you are a C4 owner don't bother with the CV boot kit. The cover and circlip that come with the kit are too big for C4s apparently. The M8 hex bolts fit perfectly.

Finally, next time I think I'll consider replacing the axle with the boots already installed. It will be quite a bit more expensive, but the cleaner approach might be worth it.

PelicanParts.com

Glad all worked-out and great info!

klr10

Started doing the four rear boots on mine today. Got all the old ones off, and although I had bought a puller, didn't need it as they slid off really easily. The six hex bolts were a bit chewed on one side so I'll replace all twelve when I reassemble next weekend (900 067 211 09).

As usual thanks so much to all the folks on here who made the whole job a lot easier and less stressful.

Yes, I know I need new suspension.....