Broken CV Joint
#1
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Driver Carries No Cash
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Tampa, Florida
Broken CV Joint
I take my C4 out to the track and autocross as often as I can. Looks like some of that hard driving caught up with me. I heard a strange noise in the rear of the car that could only be described as the sound of a lug nut wrapped inside a shop rag and wrapped around my axle flailing the tub of the car. Not a fun sound.
At the shop they discovered that my left rear out CV joint was bad. As they explained it to me, only the inner end of your half shaft can be replaced. If you trash the outer like I did, it's new half shaft time. Cha-Ching!
Before the inevitable question, yes I've torn CV boots but never neglected them. Seems like everyime I put two wheels off the track I wind up tearing a CV boot. ....so I've learned to inspect them everytime the track tires come off the car.
I thought I'd share my experiences and see if anyone else has had similar experiences!
At the shop they discovered that my left rear out CV joint was bad. As they explained it to me, only the inner end of your half shaft can be replaced. If you trash the outer like I did, it's new half shaft time. Cha-Ching!
Before the inevitable question, yes I've torn CV boots but never neglected them. Seems like everyime I put two wheels off the track I wind up tearing a CV boot. ....so I've learned to inspect them everytime the track tires come off the car.
I thought I'd share my experiences and see if anyone else has had similar experiences!
#2
Been there done that (too).
In the pre-season tech this year with my "new" car, it was discovered that I had a torn CV boot. The boot had been fine two months (and 2 track days) earlier. Knowing the rubber bits were 12 years old, I asked my mechanic to replace the both boots, check all other rubber parts and while he was at it, change the ball joints and wheel bearings as a preventative measure (70,000 miles and significant track time on the car). It turned out both my CV joints were shot and I needed two new axles (as well as many other fixes/repairs). Unfortunately, 4 track days later I discovered that one of the new rear axels had bad bearings (luckily in the pits and not on the track - it realy was quite bad). Given the time between replacement and it going bad, It got replaced under waranty.
In the pre-season tech this year with my "new" car, it was discovered that I had a torn CV boot. The boot had been fine two months (and 2 track days) earlier. Knowing the rubber bits were 12 years old, I asked my mechanic to replace the both boots, check all other rubber parts and while he was at it, change the ball joints and wheel bearings as a preventative measure (70,000 miles and significant track time on the car). It turned out both my CV joints were shot and I needed two new axles (as well as many other fixes/repairs). Unfortunately, 4 track days later I discovered that one of the new rear axels had bad bearings (luckily in the pits and not on the track - it realy was quite bad). Given the time between replacement and it going bad, It got replaced under waranty.
#6
Upon replacing the clutch I too noticed that 3 of the CV boots were torn. Now I'm not a racer, but I take'er sideways from time to time. Basically, it looked as if they had been that way for a while (about 4 months since I last looked at them). So I did what everybody hopes to be able to get away with; I bought new boots. I took the axles out, dissassembled everything and cleaned them all up. Inspected all the parts, packed in new CV grease, and reassembled it all. Everything seems to be working fine. It took around 3.5-4hrs to do it right no shortcuts. But I also know that they are 13 years old now and my luck does not run linier.
Duncan
Duncan
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#8
Though not appropriate for street use and not built for Type 964, I thought you might be interested in the axles that were an outgrowth of the Humpty Dumpty Project and that are used by the GT3 RSR in ALMS, ALMS and other race series:
1. lightweight, high angularity (unlike, e.g., tripods that respond less favorably to extreme bump and droop) ten ceramic ball CV's for better power delivery;
2. specialty high strength steel (with proprietary processing) components – everything but the dust covers and the boots;
3. aerospace tear/crack resistant boots;
4. enhanced inboard and outboard cooling;
5. machined in integral speed sensors;
6. complete with specialty high strength steel (with proprietary processing) lightweight fasteners (MJ10 x 1.5, heads are 12 point, 11 mm) with provision for safety wiring;
7. filled with Krytox GPL 217;
8. fully serviceable inboard and outboard -- both for examination and individual parts replacement;
9. all axle components available on a piece by piece basis so as to enhance efficiency and reduce operating costs; and
10. all axles are serial numbered.
1. lightweight, high angularity (unlike, e.g., tripods that respond less favorably to extreme bump and droop) ten ceramic ball CV's for better power delivery;
2. specialty high strength steel (with proprietary processing) components – everything but the dust covers and the boots;
3. aerospace tear/crack resistant boots;
4. enhanced inboard and outboard cooling;
5. machined in integral speed sensors;
6. complete with specialty high strength steel (with proprietary processing) lightweight fasteners (MJ10 x 1.5, heads are 12 point, 11 mm) with provision for safety wiring;
7. filled with Krytox GPL 217;
8. fully serviceable inboard and outboard -- both for examination and individual parts replacement;
9. all axle components available on a piece by piece basis so as to enhance efficiency and reduce operating costs; and
10. all axles are serial numbered.