I just marked up this photo from Dunasso. My post describing this was from three years ago so I can't remember exactly if this is the right mark or not but I do remember having a eureka moment when I noticed it inside the distributor. I had been struggling to get the shafts aligned and then realized I could align them without putting everything together and the rotors inplace. This is the only mark in Dunasso's photos but there are two versions of the 964 dual-distributor.

 

Thanks Jason, I'll give it a try. I still don't know if it's possible to get both rotors to point EXACTLY to their respective marks, but it's worth the piece of mind to give it a try.

FYI, to comment of the original topic.... I purchased the Porsche roll pin for about $5.

Erick

 

I responded to another dizzy thread but didn't get much action as I probably didn't ask a specific question. I coudn't find a way to get the Rotors(?) out of the secondary dizzy to access the belt. I unscrewed the hex bolt in the middle of the assembly and the 3 screws in the secondary, but thats as far as I could go. Any pics showing more details would be amazing. Belt looked decent from the little window I could make turning the rotor assembly a bit, but still want to replace it for peace of mind. Oh and I found a broken metal wire clip of somekind wedge in the slot where the rotor and dizzy wall meet! Strange.

Edit: I couldn't remove the Secondary shaft Cap...I believe that is what I meant to refer too. Need help determining whether I need to do something special beyond prying the bejesus outta it, or if this is where i need to look at filing down 3 tabs somewhere. A little hand holding would be sweet

 

Maybe this DIY thread will help.

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989...ollection.html

 

No read it and all the other links. But thanks Rob. I need/wanted pics of how to get the secondary cap thingy out of the assembly. Yank it, look for a pin to drill, tabs to file. Thats my problem at the moment.

 

Something i learned when doing mine. When you install the distributor,you should feel the gears start to engage. Then there will be some resistance, as the O ring seal engages.I used a wooden block & gently tapped it down past the seal.
Since the gears are helical, the rotor will move clockwise a little, as the distributor is pushed in.

 

right, but I"m trying to do the JA method and change the belt without pulling the shaft outta the engine bay. I simply can not see where or how to pull the rotor assembly thingy out of the dizzy assembly. I've read about filing tabs, punching/drilling pins, but no pictures that actually show the locations of these things so I was a bit lost. I have NO dizzy experience so these things are foreign to me. I admitt they intimidate me

 

The primary shaft gets removed. you must drill out the roll pin to do this.The secondary shaft can stay in place. Follow the instructions to partially drive the pin in the distributor body out enough, so you can swivel the body sideways enough to access the belt.

 

Okay, I was totally confused. I thought you could perform the dizzy belt removal with the dizzy housing still in the car, but (I think) after reading a bunch of different threads I believe you have to pull the damm thing from the car, then seperate the halves, then put the belt on. The only short cut is not having to pull out the lower(i've still confused to the primary/secondary thing, because my engine sticker icon and actual name dont make sense to me) internals out. Does that sum it up? I'll do some more digging and yank this sucker this weekend...again

 

Err... arriving a little late to this particular party but in case anyone else has this question, the primary is the distributor on the shaft driven by the engine crank shaft and the secondary is the one driven by the belt from the primary.

I'm poised to drill out the pin on mine (well tomorrow, maybe) and am unsure of a couple of things:
1) which way to drive out the pin from the pinion? - FROM the staked end seems to make most sense. I assume the original pin was put in from the larger side of the taper and then staked at the smaller end to prevent it escaping.
2) whether or not using a roll pin makes more sense that the (kit supplied) mild steel pin when it comes to replacement.

Oh - one more. Fitting a vent kit for the 1st time. Does it make any difference into which opening the blower adapter goes? The plug on my primary is snug but that on the secondary is loose making it seem a better candidate.

Cheers,

Z

 

The Porsche pin is copper and a friction fit, a roll pin would work as well, a solid steel pin may not!

I wouldnt worry where the vent pipe goes, they are both connected after all

 

Thanks Pervy!