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Old 10-15-2004, 04:27 PM
  #76  
JasonAndreas
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One more step to add to this recipe;

After you first wash and sand and wash the plastic (before paint), use Bulldog Adhesion promotor. It is like a primer for plastic and completely transparent. The paint/tint will stick a LOT better. The added insurance of not having to worry about your paint flaking off because of some screwup or mistake is more than worth the $4 a can.

Old 10-15-2004, 07:50 PM
  #77  
forklift
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Cool, I am hoping to finally work on my tail lights this weekend. I will look for some bulldog.

For those looking to do this, I found this paint after doing some research and will let you know how it turns out: http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tes/tes1605.htm

Thanks to everyone who gave input on this thread, much better than buying new ones! Damn, I just remembered I forgot to pick up my seals at the dealership.
Old 10-15-2004, 08:10 PM
  #78  
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Regarding the Bulldog - I got a 'splatter' on my center section due to a blocked nozzle on the aerosol. I was able to use spirits to quickly remove, dry and repaint perfectly. Would the Bulldog make it harder to take a reverse step if a similiar error was made? I cant see it being an issue but thought it worth asking.
Old 10-15-2004, 09:53 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Kahdmus
Regarding the Bulldog - I got a 'splatter' on my center section due to a blocked nozzle on the aerosol. I was able to use spirits to quickly remove, dry and repaint perfectly. Would the Bulldog make it harder to take a reverse step if a similiar error was made? I cant see it being an issue but thought it worth asking.
On the back of the can it says, "If Bulldog runs, remove immediately with lacquer thinner and reapply as directed above." You spray a thin coat of Bulldog, wait 3 to 5 minutes and spray another coat then wait 10-15 minutes and spray your paint/tint. When I sprayed it there was no visible marks left on my test piece so I don't see any problems with redo'ing a step.

To avoid splatter & buildup and to get an even coat start the can spraying off the surface (next to the reflector) and move the can horizontally/vertically across whatever your painting. And only stop spraying after the can has moved past your painted surface (so you spray a tiny bit into the air).
Old 10-16-2004, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeW
My own beloved claims it is experience ... I think it's the infallible female crap detector.
Old 10-21-2004, 05:53 PM
  #81  
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[QUOTE=forklift]Cool, I am hoping to finally work on my tail lights this weekend. I will look for some bulldog.

For those looking to do this, I found this paint after doing some research and will let you know how it turns out: http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tes/tes1605.htm

How did this work out for you?
Old 10-22-2004, 05:37 AM
  #82  
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Hi Lon,

It never happen, one of those weekends where you hit every red light and every person in front of you at the store pays with either pennies or a check. I will be at the track this weekend, so this may have to wait a bit.
Old 10-23-2004, 10:00 PM
  #83  
Kahdmus
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Originally Posted by JasonAndreas
On the back of the can it says, "If Bulldog runs, remove immediately with lacquer thinner and reapply as directed above." You spray a thin coat of Bulldog, wait 3 to 5 minutes and spray another coat then wait 10-15 minutes and spray your paint/tint. When I sprayed it there was no visible marks left on my test piece so I don't see any problems with redo'ing a step.

To avoid splatter & buildup and to get an even coat start the can spraying off the surface (next to the reflector) and move the can horizontally/vertically across whatever your painting. And only stop spraying after the can has moved past your painted surface (so you spray a tiny bit into the air).
When I did mine I didnt cleran the nozzle and got a drip. Aside from that the paint went on smooth and looked perfect.
Old 10-24-2004, 10:29 AM
  #84  
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[QUOTE=Lon]
Originally Posted by forklift
For those looking to do this, I found this paint after doing some research and will let you know how it turns out: http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tes/tes1605.htm

How did this work out for you?
i've used testors successfully in the past and would recommend it

Old 10-24-2004, 12:54 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by bron964
i've used testors successfully in the past and would recommend it


Thanks Dan,

I might just give it a try
Old 10-24-2004, 06:27 PM
  #86  
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That same can of Testors Paint is available at your local Walmart stores for just $2.67. I bought some there to try also.
Old 10-30-2004, 12:30 PM
  #87  
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PROBLEM!
I used the Testors and the finish was excellent with 2 coats. The big problem is transluscence, it's nearly non-existant when I put a strong light behind the lens. I was lucky that a good spray with carb cleaner dissolved the paint.

I'm back to "pink", but in prepping, I lightly sanded the lenses. Now I have to decide - do I try again with a light spray, change paint, or polish the pink lenses and live with it.
Old 10-31-2004, 02:34 PM
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Lou, no experience with Testors but using the paint and procedure described on the preceeding pages I now have better-than-new tail lenses. Not sure why the rush to obtain cheaper paint. I spent around $50 rather than $2.67 but considering the cost of new tail lights and the excellent results......
Old 10-31-2004, 05:08 PM
  #89  
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$$ wasn't the issue.

Just read the last 10 posts, and had the opportunity. No big deal, just a little buffing and it's back to square one.
Old 10-31-2004, 05:38 PM
  #90  
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I haven't started my project yet, but bought the Testor's on the recommendation of others who had a good experience like Dan above. I could not fine the stained glass paint either.


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