Stalling...
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Stalling...
At the end of a 25 mile mixed journey, lowered speed to change into 2nd for a bend, and as I dipped the clutch, the car died. All dash lights came on. Selected 2nd, let the clutch up and she burst into life again, effectively jump started it.
O2 sensor is only 9 months old, as is the fuel pump and air flow meter. Road was dry, weather 17 degrees.
Question is, do I need a new DME relay, or is it something more serious ?
Can anyone shed any light please?
Cheers,
Mark 90C2.
O2 sensor is only 9 months old, as is the fuel pump and air flow meter. Road was dry, weather 17 degrees.
Question is, do I need a new DME relay, or is it something more serious ?
Can anyone shed any light please?
Cheers,
Mark 90C2.
#2
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Mark,
This is not the greatest answer, but I had a similar problem. It turned out that my airbox wasn't latched properly. I think the mixture was changing depending on whether there was big or small gap at the airbox. So it was an easy fix.
Like I said, not a great answer, but maybe something easy to check.
Regards
Geo
This is not the greatest answer, but I had a similar problem. It turned out that my airbox wasn't latched properly. I think the mixture was changing depending on whether there was big or small gap at the airbox. So it was an easy fix.
Like I said, not a great answer, but maybe something easy to check.
Regards
Geo
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Guys, now it's serious.....
Checked the air filter box, all attached correctly. Set out for a drive, 1st to 2nd gear no problem. 2nd to 3rd, clutch depressed, and the revs went through to 6250 rpm before I could switch the engine off. As I switched off, the steering lock clicked
Checked the air filter box, all attached correctly. Set out for a drive, 1st to 2nd gear no problem. 2nd to 3rd, clutch depressed, and the revs went through to 6250 rpm before I could switch the engine off. As I switched off, the steering lock clicked
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Guys, now it's serious.....
Checked the air filter box, all attached correctly. Set out for a drive, 1st to 2nd gear no problem. 2nd to 3rd, clutch depressed, and the revs went through to 6250 rpm before I could switch the engine off. As I switched off, the steering lock clicked in, resulting in me skidding to a halt halfway up a bank. Cars behind narrowly avoided me.
Checked the mats weren't jammed, checked the linkage at the throttle body, nothing wrong. Mannaged to roll backwards down the road to my house with hazard lights on....not much fun. Turned the car over again with the wife watching that the throttle linkage didn't move from closed, and the revs rose to 4,500 before I could switch off again.
So now where do I start? It would appear that the ECU is telling the engine to run at full rpm, which is obviously very dangerous given that the car had just been started from cold. If the throttle is closed, how can fuel be getting into the cylinders? I've looked through Adrians book, and all the faults described appear to be non-starting and poor running, not revving through the limiter !
I had a problem with this 3 weeks ago, but thought it was rectified by cleaning out all the rubbish under the 'plank of wood', by the pedals.
Please help !!!!
Mark
90C2
Checked the air filter box, all attached correctly. Set out for a drive, 1st to 2nd gear no problem. 2nd to 3rd, clutch depressed, and the revs went through to 6250 rpm before I could switch the engine off. As I switched off, the steering lock clicked in, resulting in me skidding to a halt halfway up a bank. Cars behind narrowly avoided me.
Checked the mats weren't jammed, checked the linkage at the throttle body, nothing wrong. Mannaged to roll backwards down the road to my house with hazard lights on....not much fun. Turned the car over again with the wife watching that the throttle linkage didn't move from closed, and the revs rose to 4,500 before I could switch off again.
So now where do I start? It would appear that the ECU is telling the engine to run at full rpm, which is obviously very dangerous given that the car had just been started from cold. If the throttle is closed, how can fuel be getting into the cylinders? I've looked through Adrians book, and all the faults described appear to be non-starting and poor running, not revving through the limiter !
I had a problem with this 3 weeks ago, but thought it was rectified by cleaning out all the rubbish under the 'plank of wood', by the pedals.
Please help !!!!
Mark
90C2
#6
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Well, in my opinion the engine is getting too much air when the throttle is shut. So either the throttle is stuck partially open, or some other channel for air exists. The ISV comes to mind, but my experience with the throttle body and ISV is limited (read 'none').
If it was my car I would start looking at the throttle body first. Check for stuck cable, broken return spring, anything obvious.
If that doesn't work I would rotate the tires and change the oil...
Geo
I think your best bet is that my advice pisses off somebody else on the list and they decide to reply.
If it was my car I would start looking at the throttle body first. Check for stuck cable, broken return spring, anything obvious.
If that doesn't work I would rotate the tires and change the oil...
Geo
I think your best bet is that my advice pisses off somebody else on the list and they decide to reply.
#7
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The DME only controls Fuel/Air mixture - not throttle. so let's eliminate that.
The DME relay could be causing your car not to start to to die unexpediantly - replace it with the 993 part.
It sounds like there might be 2 issues here -
1. check your throttle cable at the engine and the pedals - it sounds like it is binding and thus going to full throttle under no load - it might also be stuck open at the "Barn door" air flow meter.
2. your car dying (once the relay is replaced) could be the result of the positive terminal grounding - killing the car (I know this one well as it happened to me). it will usually only manifest it'sself over bumps. this might have shorted the DME but if it run's you should be ok here.
Bottom line - DO not drive the car until the problem is positively identified - I would tow it to a good mechanic post haste.
The DME relay could be causing your car not to start to to die unexpediantly - replace it with the 993 part.
It sounds like there might be 2 issues here -
1. check your throttle cable at the engine and the pedals - it sounds like it is binding and thus going to full throttle under no load - it might also be stuck open at the "Barn door" air flow meter.
2. your car dying (once the relay is replaced) could be the result of the positive terminal grounding - killing the car (I know this one well as it happened to me). it will usually only manifest it'sself over bumps. this might have shorted the DME but if it run's you should be ok here.
Bottom line - DO not drive the car until the problem is positively identified - I would tow it to a good mechanic post haste.
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
I've checked the springs on the throttle body, they are strong and closed. The cable isn't sticking, as far as I can tell. Could the ECU tell the injectors to fire and the fuel pump to run at full load on it's own ?
Adrian, are you there ????
Mark
90C2
Adrian, are you there ????
Mark
90C2
#10
Yes, but I would suggest taking it in for someone to check ASAP - perhaps not the answer you want though....whereabouts in Essex are you? I spend most weekends in Billericay....
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Shenfield. We should meet up. Does anyone recommend an independant for this. I brought from La Rose in Kent, but it's a bit of a trek, and I'm not 100% with them after my last service/problems.
#14
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Not in Kent, but if you can make it to Startford, I'd recommend HP Motorsports. They've been servicing my cars for the last couple of years & I'm very happy with them. The guy I always have work on my car is called Joe - 07811194540
#15
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Mark,
I've found John's thread. It was dirt getting past the boot on the end of the cable. Nothing to do with the pedal.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...light=throttle
I've found John's thread. It was dirt getting past the boot on the end of the cable. Nothing to do with the pedal.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...light=throttle