I've been doing some door related upfixing and thought I'd share as it seems likely problems I have are problems others may have. My car is a parked-outside-365-daily in coastal CT so it sees weather. Complaints are:

-Every now and again windows don't move
-Felt seals at top stay wet, when sindows are wound down and back up, they show wet streats
-in <20f the strikes sometimes will not engage the latch and the door handle will not move the latch nor will the pull return

I won't cover interior panel removal as its not hard and explained elsewhere. I used this procedure to remove the window regulator and found it to be quite accurate. Not fun, bit of a 3D puzzle but nothing you can't do in an hour or so. https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-the-door.html

At this point you can easily remove the inner upper seals by yankin on them.
The outer upper seals have expansion tabs that are perhaps corroded in place and may take a little light prying. Mine were positively falling apart. Vacuum up the little bits that fall to the bottom of the door and then give the bottom of the door a good clean to make sure it drains well.






Replacement is the reverse. Start with the outer seal as it is the more difficult. It doesn't love popping its metal expansion tabs in place. Needed a decent push and even then... Note I'm pushing not prying. When I wasn't taking the pic I supported the door on the outside.




Both my window motors were working just fine but the regulators needed cleaning / greasing. One showed some burrs that I removed. Note that the motor is regulated by resistance to movement, so I believe the issue was simply that some times the resistance from the old parts was too great and the motor would not energize.



With the window all the way UP (see my handy window hold-up solution below) you can access the two bolts for the door handle with an 8mm and swivel for the rear most.




The handle comes out thusly. Remove the wire retainer then the black microswitch holder simply "pops" off with light levering.






From there its straight to the ultrasonic and then re-lube. Make sure to work the key and lever to clean out old grime and work in new lube. Also a great time to clay bar the recess behind the handle.
Seal replacement should be self-evident...





Cleaning the interior where the door handle makes contact with the strike mechanism is a bit tight clearance. I used brake clean and a nylon brush as best I could. One odd thing is that only the Pass side on my car had this plastic shroud which is likely there to prevent moisture and dirt from gumming the works. It is remove with two small ph screws viewed at the jamb.
Can anyone confirm it is usually present on the driver side too?




Stuff to have on hand
Both "shower curtains" which seal the interior of the door.
https://www.delawareporscheparts.com...al-91153189000
https://www.delawareporscheparts.com...al-91153189000

Both felt outer upper seals
https://www.delawareporscheparts.com...ip-90153193520
https://www.delawareporscheparts.com...ip-90153193520

Two (identical) felt inner upper seals
https://www.delawareporscheparts.com...ip-91153195101

Two sets door handle seals
(2) https://www.delawareporscheparts.com...ad-91153163200
(2) https://www.delawareporscheparts.com...ad-91153163100

 

The Big Picture:

 

Nice write up! Thanks. My driver side window recently stopped working. Checked the switch and it's fine.
So I'll be doing something similar to get to the internals and while I'm in there might as well take care of other things too.

 

Good to hear my instructions worked on the regulator removal.

 

The only additional check I would add, from experience, are the window glass riser rails. That is, the the 'channel' rail the actual glass sits in and is then connected to, or rests on, the scissor mechanism. Many years ago on the drive back from Le Mans my window glass just dropped unexpectedly down into the door. Stripped the door down when home to find the riser rail at completely corroded and was coming apart. A design fault of no drain holes means any water running down the glass finds itself collecting in the rail channel and slowly rots away the rail. Cars left out in the exposed to elements all year round will suffer from this.

Bought two new riser rails [911 542 058 00]. While I had the door stripped out I took the opportunity the dismantle the framework and get all frame parts blasted then powder coated. I had the new riser rails also powder coated - max protection as possible. Definitely worth a good inspection - pull the window glass out and have a good look.

Hope this helps

 

What needs to come out to remove the glass entirely?

 

IIRC I pulled the glass out from the door once the frame was removed (in itself only a few allen setscrews that are relatively easy to locate).

 

Gotcha so you pulled the full "hoop" frame. I did this while tearing down my bare metal resto 912. It was a tight fit and made me nervous, even tho the car was coming apart for paint. Perhaps thats because it was a rusty old basketcase. Was it a tight / scary fit coming in and out of your 964?
Presuming you had the chance to replace the felt jamb seals at that time? Part of me thinks these are to blame for the occasional friction / motor not running.

 

Wasn't that bad tbh. The frame is well constructed and very robust. Slackened off all the setscrews then once I could jiggle it about a bit (free from any 'sticking') I removed the main frame screws and pulled out the whole frame as one.