RS swaybar
#16
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BTW, the $370 price sounds fine.
When I did bars on my Miata, I got the front AND rear bars from Suspension Techniques for less than $370...shipped!
Oh well....I guess we all are pretty well acclimated (or is it really de-sensitized) to paying twice to three times what things SHOULD cost!
But hey, we all drive pretty cool cars, right?????
BGL
#17
Burning Brakes
Originally posted by BGLeduc
Only on a Porsche forum would that statement go unchallenged
When I did bars on my Miata, I got the front AND rear bars from Suspension Techniques for less than $370...shipped!
Oh well....I guess we all are pretty well acclimated (or is it really de-sensitized) to paying twice to three times what things SHOULD cost!
But hey, we all drive pretty cool cars, right?????
BGL
Only on a Porsche forum would that statement go unchallenged
When I did bars on my Miata, I got the front AND rear bars from Suspension Techniques for less than $370...shipped!
Oh well....I guess we all are pretty well acclimated (or is it really de-sensitized) to paying twice to three times what things SHOULD cost!
But hey, we all drive pretty cool cars, right?????
BGL
Can't argue with you here. HOWEVER, considering that Porsche wants about $300 for a resistor-on-a-connector-in-a-box (which disables the airbag warning light).... $300 - 370 sounds paletable for a legitimate performance upgrade.
#18
Race Car
Something that I find VERY important in "plugging" the TRG front bars...it's MUCH easier to install their 25mm when compared to the factory 25mm RS bar...MUCH MUCH easier.
They have their bars bent a bit different, which allows one to install it WITHOUT having to drop their front subframe assembly, with associated "A"-arm connection points, etc.
This was a breath of fresh air as my previous 25mm bar was a BI*** to install...and I believe one other forum member had the same issues, he lives on the OTHER side of the pond - right Christer??
I don't belive that TRG is aware of this...and someday I aim to tell them, as it would be a BIG selling point to me! PLUS, the bushings that they include with the bar FAR OUTWEIGH the competition in quality and proper fit.
You don't even have to grease them up...have you tried that NASTY grease that's used for swaybar bushings and the like??
IMHO, you only want to use the 18mm bar if you have a 22mm up front, whether it be an aftermarket one or the factory M030 bar...of which I STRONGLY advise for those who are looking for "middle ground"...and you haven't upgraded your shock/spring combo to FULL RACE or RS specs.
As for having my front bar in any other position than the loosest...been there, done that...reverted back to some SOUND advice from experience PCA racers who continue to kick my butt on the track.
Joey, I had virtually NO steering up at Gingerman last Summmer - aside from the fact that your buddy is a damned good driver, add to that my understeer issues...coupled with my "middle ground" shocks and springs and he continued to open ground on me!
Ah, that brings me back to the good 'ol days when owning a 911SC/Carrera was MUCH more simple...throw on a pair of adjustable 22mm swaybars, 28mm torsions in the rear and 22 up front, some Sport shocks and away you go!
They have their bars bent a bit different, which allows one to install it WITHOUT having to drop their front subframe assembly, with associated "A"-arm connection points, etc.
This was a breath of fresh air as my previous 25mm bar was a BI*** to install...and I believe one other forum member had the same issues, he lives on the OTHER side of the pond - right Christer??
I don't belive that TRG is aware of this...and someday I aim to tell them, as it would be a BIG selling point to me! PLUS, the bushings that they include with the bar FAR OUTWEIGH the competition in quality and proper fit.
You don't even have to grease them up...have you tried that NASTY grease that's used for swaybar bushings and the like??
IMHO, you only want to use the 18mm bar if you have a 22mm up front, whether it be an aftermarket one or the factory M030 bar...of which I STRONGLY advise for those who are looking for "middle ground"...and you haven't upgraded your shock/spring combo to FULL RACE or RS specs.
As for having my front bar in any other position than the loosest...been there, done that...reverted back to some SOUND advice from experience PCA racers who continue to kick my butt on the track.
Joey, I had virtually NO steering up at Gingerman last Summmer - aside from the fact that your buddy is a damned good driver, add to that my understeer issues...coupled with my "middle ground" shocks and springs and he continued to open ground on me!
Ah, that brings me back to the good 'ol days when owning a 911SC/Carrera was MUCH more simple...throw on a pair of adjustable 22mm swaybars, 28mm torsions in the rear and 22 up front, some Sport shocks and away you go!
#19
Race Car
...and ANOTHER Thing...
Just for your info. MOST of the swaybars that are made in the U.S. for Miatas, Camaros, Mustangs and whatever else you can think of are made by the SAME PLACE in California...the name escapes me at the moment, but you can find them in Grassroots Motorsports magazine.
THIS IS WHY companies like TRG can offer a stellar product at a reasonable price.
A TRG employee could neither confirm nor deny that theirs are manufactured by the same outfit. The bars that TRG sells are NOT a Porsche part, they are aftermarket...I will back them to the end as I LOVE my 25mm bar with it's "innovative" bushings that fit like a glove, not to mention how easily it went in.
A swaybar is really quite the simple device...it's a bar, just like a torsion bar that depending on hardness and thickness, offers differing "spring rates" - if you will.
There's not a bunch of wild technology within - trust me on that one.
OH...and wonder why that "other" company no longer offers a HOLLOW front bar for our 964s??
THIS IS WHY companies like TRG can offer a stellar product at a reasonable price.
A TRG employee could neither confirm nor deny that theirs are manufactured by the same outfit. The bars that TRG sells are NOT a Porsche part, they are aftermarket...I will back them to the end as I LOVE my 25mm bar with it's "innovative" bushings that fit like a glove, not to mention how easily it went in.
A swaybar is really quite the simple device...it's a bar, just like a torsion bar that depending on hardness and thickness, offers differing "spring rates" - if you will.
There's not a bunch of wild technology within - trust me on that one.
OH...and wonder why that "other" company no longer offers a HOLLOW front bar for our 964s??
Last edited by Jeff Curtis; 05-03-2004 at 07:52 PM.
#20
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Contrary to the experience with the front, the 22mm rear bar is a pain to install as the bushings need some work due to how the bars are bent. And yes, the "grease" for the bushings is nasty stuff.
I also have a "spare" TRG adjustable 19 mm rear bar if anyone needs one. I was not happy with it when paired with a 25 mm bat in the front and went to the 22 mm in the rear. It was used for 2 days at the track. It does not come with the drop links (those were used with the 22 mm bar).
I also have a "spare" TRG adjustable 19 mm rear bar if anyone needs one. I was not happy with it when paired with a 25 mm bat in the front and went to the 22 mm in the rear. It was used for 2 days at the track. It does not come with the drop links (those were used with the 22 mm bar).
#21
Burning Brakes
Originally posted by Tom W
I also have a "spare" TRG adjustable 19 mm rear bar if anyone needs one. I was not happy with it when paired with a 25 mm bat in the front and went to the 22 mm in the rear. It was used for 2 days at the track. It does not come with the drop links (those were used with the 22 mm bar).
I also have a "spare" TRG adjustable 19 mm rear bar if anyone needs one. I was not happy with it when paired with a 25 mm bat in the front and went to the 22 mm in the rear. It was used for 2 days at the track. It does not come with the drop links (those were used with the 22 mm bar).
Do you think that the 19mm adjustable rear would be a good match for my US M030 front?
Thanks.
Erick
#22
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If the M030 is 21-23 mm, I would think so. It wasn't bad with the 25 mm front, it just wasn't enough to eliiminate understeer. As a replacement for a stock or M030, I think it would be a nice improvement given it's adjustable.
#24
Race Car
It'll be worth a try Erick, I believe your M030 rear is 18mm??
I KNOW the front one is 22mm.
That should allow you to tighten up the rear a bit and still allow the front some flex/dive to turn in with your factory 22mm.
I KNOW the front one is 22mm.
That should allow you to tighten up the rear a bit and still allow the front some flex/dive to turn in with your factory 22mm.
#25
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Originally posted by Jeff Curtis
Joey, I had virtually NO steering up at Gingerman last Summmer - aside from the fact that your buddy is a damned good driver, add to that my understeer issues...coupled with my "middle ground" shocks and springs and he continued to open ground on me!
Joey, I had virtually NO steering up at Gingerman last Summmer - aside from the fact that your buddy is a damned good driver, add to that my understeer issues...coupled with my "middle ground" shocks and springs and he continued to open ground on me!
I've only been there 4 or 5 times and haven't broken 1:40 (yet). It's a tricky little track which rewards perfect lines (some of which are not so obvious) and momentum. It's one of our home tracks, too, and good ole' Mike probably has a hundred hours there so I'm sure it'll only be a matter of time before you end up in his mirrors.
#26
Race Car
OH, I WILL be IN his mirrors THIS Summer!
Guaranteed...or I'm putting this thing on it's ROOF!
I was cutting low 1:40s while Mike was 2 seconds ahead of me...PER LAP!
I could not get the car to stick at all...but warded off a STRONG E36 M3 the whole race.
Guaranteed...or I'm putting this thing on it's ROOF!
I was cutting low 1:40s while Mike was 2 seconds ahead of me...PER LAP!
I could not get the car to stick at all...but warded off a STRONG E36 M3 the whole race.
#27
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my 2 cents...
i usually advise 4 on the front (5 is the loosest) and 2 in the rear. and then tune the shocks from there.
the idea is to neutralize the understeer w/o inducing oversteer in slow-tight corners
i usually advise 4 on the front (5 is the loosest) and 2 in the rear. and then tune the shocks from there.
the idea is to neutralize the understeer w/o inducing oversteer in slow-tight corners