darth

Hi All

In order to tighten one of the oil line fittings at the engine I find it necessary to remove the heat exchanger. Problem is I can't get a socket or wrench on the nut holding the heat exchanger squarely without the wrench hitting the heat exchanger body. If anyone has removed the heat exchangers I'd be interesteted in hearing how you removed them or what kind of tool you used to get them off?

Thanks in advance
Bill
90C2

sullivs

Bill,
Sears (and probably others) has a 3/8 inch drive 13mm socket with a u-joint built into it. It is not very deep, and I have seen it advertized as a "low profile" socket. I have one and it works great. With it and a 6 inch extension, you should be able to remove the heat exchanger.

When I removed mine the first time, I do remember some of the bolts were pretty darn tight. But after removal, I cleaned up the studs real well, and applied some anti-seize to the threads during assembly. The next time, removal was a lot easier.

Good luck,
Steve

darth

Thanks Steve

For your reply - I'll look for just such a socket. Won't the antiseize eventually burn off due to the hi heat or is there heat resistant antiseize?

Bill
90C2

Colin 90 C2

Darth,
i'm glad you posted this question, I too am tying to stop some oil leaks and need to remove the heat exchangers.

Even though there are different compunds of antiseize, they all coat the threads and stop them from rusting together. Heat is usually not a factor.
If you use antiseze in a critical torqueing situation, make sure you consult the manufactures' data to see if it affects torque values.

Now off to find that socket.

Colin

Jeff Curtis

Use copper antiseize, I bought a nice sized jar of it at Autozone or something and use it often...even on wheelstuds!

On the subject of getting to those bolts...it's catch as catch can on that, whatever it takes, a "wobble-socket", a combination wrench and a 13mm distributor wrench from Sears is what I use, they all have their job in this scenario, one may be used to remove just one or two nuts, the others more.

darth

Hi All

Thanks for the input. Heat exchanger removal will have to wait till next winter's project. I replaced the seals on the cam chain housings and camchain oil passage tube housings (i.e both sides) and the passengerside oil pressure camchain tensioner housing thingy and have seen a significant reduction in oil around the engine - it's amazing where that cooling fan will distribute the oil. After replacing the valve cover seals last year I thought they were still leaking but the new camchain housing seals resolved that problem. I also replaced the power steering seal and O-ring. I replaced the power steering belt and I found removing the belt from the top pulley first rather than trying to get the belt over the lip on the lower pulley a lot easier. After 14 years these seals are getting really brittle. Next winter the main crankshaft seal behind the pulley is on the list.

Bill
90C2

ecobb993

Hope y'all are still looking. Just a quick follow up on the reinstallation.

I've dropped the heat exchangers and will replace the sealing rings with new on reinstallation.

Since I'm working from the bottom and the rings don't fit snuggly, is there a reason to not use something like a thin coating of grease to hold the rings in place when remounting the exchangers?