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Few things to do this winter, but some advice from those more experienced appreciated.
Basically I don't want to remove the engine, but I have the following to do:
- replace FPR and fuel lines
- remove injectors for cleaning
- replace fan
- replace timing chain gaskets
- check and possibly replace nose bearing seal
I do plan to remove the rear bumper and don't mind dropping the engine down a bit, but can't remove it as I have nowhere for it to go.
I'm thinking remove the fan and alternator first, do the fuel lines, then drop the engine down for the leaky oil bits. Make sense?
Yep. All that can be done with the engine in the car. To get to the FPR, you need to take off the intake manifold. While in there, I would check the oil breather gasket and the oil pressure sender o-rings. They tend to leak.
I think the right side timing chain gasket will be blocked the A/C compressor bracket and not removable as it is blocked by the crankshaft pulley, unless it was modified earlier. All the other bits can be done with engine in or slightly dropped,
A note on injector cleaning. Maybe unique to my situation but worth saying: I waited a month or so from the time my injectors came back to me until I ran them and in that time they flash seized perhaps from cleaning fluid? The firm who cleaned them promptly rectified it but something to consider.
I think you can easily do everything you mentioned with the engine in the car and the approach you're taking. However, if you have leaking on the sides and rear of the timing chainboxes vs just the timing covers, you are best served to pull the engine due to the need for timing the cams.
The nose bearing seal is behind the crank pulley. It can be inspected with the engine in, based on evidence of oil leakage. Replacing it, however, requires engine out and the case to be split. I have the T shirt. You don’t want it, believe me.
I think you can easily do everything you mentioned with the engine in the car and the approach you're taking. However, if you have leaking on the sides and rear of the timing chainboxes vs just the timing covers, you are best served to pull the engine due to the need for timing the cams.
I did mine without dropping the engine. I followed Ricardo's instructions and checked cam timing after reinstalling the sprockets. I did buy the Stomski tool for the gauge and that was a huge help. So yes, it can be done with engine in the car as long as You take it slowly and verify every step along the way. Take plenty of pictures but these engines are really not that complicated. Biggest mistake I see folks make is over-torqueing the chain housing cover nuts. While I was in there, I also changed the chain ramps. They were pretty worn.
I did mine without dropping the engine. I followed Ricardo's instructions and checked cam timing after reinstalling the sprockets. I did buy the Stomski tool for the gauge and that was a huge help. So yes, it can be done with engine in the car as long as You take it slowly and verify every step along the way. Take plenty of pictures but these engines are really not that complicated. Biggest mistake I see folks make is over-torqueing the chain housing cover nuts. While I was in there, I also changed the chain ramps. They were pretty worn.
Ahhh....you are right, cam timing be done in the car. I was thinking of when I did mine, I used a digital degree indicator that attaches to the rear of the crankshaft, but yes it can be done with out that. As you mentioned, the Stomski tool is pure gold and takes all the fiddle out of the dial indicator.
One tip I have is that if you have change to 993 engine mounts, they have much longer threaded stems that my original factory C4 mounts. I believe that allow you to drop the engine somewhat lower than if you start with the factory mounts.
One tip I have is that if you have change to 993 engine mounts, they have much longer threaded stems that my original factory C4 mounts. I believe that allow you to drop the engine somewhat lower than if you start with the factory mounts.
That's interesting. When I lowered my engine, I actually went below the end of the stems - I have standard engine mounts in mine - and I had to use a pry bar to gently force the engine carrier back over the stems when I jacked the engine back in place. I guess I did go to far so next time I'll will keep any eye on that. I always thought the limiting factor is how much you want to deform the transmission mounts in the front. Also needed to keep an eye on the ignition leads from the coils to the distributors so they don't stretch too much when you lower the engine in the back.
My last remaining oil leak is either the timing chain covers or the nose bearing. I have the Porsche 'tool' to remove the pulley so can have a good look. Definitely no plans (or cash!) for splitting the case however.
09-18-2021, 07:56 AM
Winter work advice
