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have the manual steering rack installed. Drove the car hard on my favorite roads. I like it a lot, the car feels lively. There are so much more feedback on those 35 mph hair pins. I've never felt it with the power steering. I also had a few other things done at the same time. I am sure all those helped somewhat. There's more effort on those very tight corners. Otherwise, I'd recommend the mod for those who are on the fence.
Parking lot, standing still isn't an issue at all as soon as you learn to roll the car slightly to turn. I got used to it almost immediately.
Tires are 225 40 18 4s, and 265 35 18 4s, RS ride height, max caster.
have the manual steering rack installed. Drove the car hard on my favorite roads. I like it a lot, the car feels lively. There are so much more feedback on those 35 mph hair pins. I've never felt it with the power steering. I also have a few more things done at the same time. I am sure all those helps somewhat. There's more efforts on those very tight corners. Otherwise, I'd recommend the mod for those who are on the fence.
Parking lot, standing still isn't an issue at all as soon as you learn to roll the car slightly to turn. I got used to it almost immediately.
Tires are 225 40 18 4s, and 265 35 18 4s, RS ride height, max caster.
I also removed the entire PS system.
nice feedback.
did you remove everything yourself with the motor in the car?
wondering if I can do this myself.
nice feedback.
did you remove everything yourself with the motor in the car?
wondering if I can do this myself.
Yes. I removed everything with the motor on the car. I didn't lower the motor either. It was very do able. Just take your time, don't rush the project. Have the car as high up as you can on the stands. To remove the pump, I took out the secondary muffler, heat exchange hose next to the shock, and the rear shock to have access to the pump pulley. use an impact drive to remove the large bolt from the engine. The pump doesn't have to be separated.
For the lines, I had to disconnect them in multiple locations. in the engine bay, before the bend that does down to the bottom of the car. Before the PS rack, There were another couplings I've disconnected to make it easier to remove the front portion of the lines. You also have to remove the rear sway bar to give the hard lines room to rotate when you pull them down from the engine bay.
Overall just bunch of small things you have to disconnect to gain some room.
I'm putting my rack in now. I just took out the pump and was able to get it out with out lowering the engine as well. But I did drain the oil and remove the hose the that goes to they suction pipe to get enough clearance to get the pump housing out. After I figured out how to clock the housing too get it to clear the end of the camshaft so I could pull the assembly up into the engine compartment I may not have needed that step- but the oil needed changing anyway.
There is a bit of a trick to getting the housing to clear the end of the cam shaft as space does not allow you to simply pull the housing forward then upwards. I kept trying to angle the bottom of the housing towards the front of the car and cant the top to the rear but it just wouldn't go up. Then, from the top side I angled the left side of the assembly towards the front of the car and was able to clear the end of the camshaft sliding the assembly to the right and then upwards. Its hard to explain and obviously not possible to take pictures of (hands covered in oil and power steering fluid etc.) but anyway- yes it does come out.
Ordered it from DP Motorsport based on a referral. Ended up being a nice set with minimum finish work. You might be able to just get that corner piece from them in FG or CF.
I feel like the manual rack idea on a 964 has gotten a bad rap! Is it just the gearing of the RS manual rack that drives the opinion?
Pete - I have a 340mm steering wheel on the setup and it's fine. Have you installed it? I ran into a little bit of difficulty with the bearing retaining flange contacting the cross member, which required cutting the flange. I spoke with Martin and he said he was going to start providing them with that slight modification. Just wondering if you ran into the same thing.
Finally getting to putting this rack on.
So- yes it was clearance but not quite at the right angle. It needs just a hair more to fit perfect:
@Ubipa not sure how you were ale to get the steering shaft more centered. Mine really does not move. I don't think its an issue but have to tried to attack the steering U-joint yet.
Working on a solution for the gasket with th e3d printer. I ordered some 1cm thick polyethylene foam to use as a gasket. Not sure if the is the best material so any advice is welcome. This was a test print. Of course the finished print will completely encapsulate the shaft so as to not collect any dirt.
I have some thoughts about the steering stops. Any idea how much needs to be limited?
Still on the fence about what to do with the open engine tin..... It seems like a hard shape to get right on the printer.
I was never able to get it perfectly centered, just centered enough that it was smoothly moving in the boot. It was mostly just a little room in the rack mount bushing which allowed it to move over.
i haven’t spent any add’l time on the steering limits. Planned to look at it after installing the BBI uprights and new wheels. Interested in what you do, post updates pls!
There is really only one way to do this safely that I can see on this rack. Adding spacers or taping stuff in that might come loose could potentially get into the rack and pinion area and keep the rack from turning. the spacer must be fixed in my opinion. A washer is needed between the inner joiunt and the rack:
The only surface available to use as a stop is this:
So this is the easiest option- just need to be sized to fit within the boot- which should be no problem. The right and left sides will need different lengths:
Just need to know the lengths and it may differ for each car/wheel/ tire/993 or 964 longs etc....
Just printed this example for a test fit. Diameters are 14.5, 34, 44 but the boot didn't fit without interference. the spacer itself is 4.5 mm. Probably an O.D. of 42 would work well in the boot. Will have try it on the car with the toe etc all dialed to determine the length. It will be a while before I can test this out so if anyone wants to give it a shot go for it. Final work will be in steel of course.
01-07-2023, 06:54 PM
