$14,888.....

 

I think even Motormeister charges more than that for a rebuild. I don't know yet what the final number will be but have already posted a $7500 invoice just from the machine shop.

 

It will be interesting even if just to compare the labor charges for an east coast vs. west coast rebuild. At one time west coast rates were nearly double.

 

Shop rate is $150 an hour but I am being quoted a total for parts and labor to disassemble and reassemble the motor. A favorite of most shops is to charge for each job and pad the hours; a clutch job when the motor is already out is much less than if you have to drop the motor. But many shops still charge the greater of the 2 prices; a clutch job is (about $2200) if you drive in but if you are already putting it all back together, should be parts costs only (about $950).

The car will get all new shocks, bushings, reseal trans, motor/trans mounts 18 inch wheels and new tires. I will break out the actual motor rebuild from the peripherals.

 

Agreed, charging "book time" should be criminal.

 

$22,500

 

Figuring about $23,500 from the East Coast....

 

Just waiting on the cams back from Webb, all other numbers are now known, we left $14,888 a long way back in the rear view. Some pretty good guesses right above.

 

Got the cams $ back so will publish a full complete number Tuesday, any more guesses better hurry. Bear in mind I was very lucky, much of my engine was in good shape; lots of folks will be needing new heads, oil pump etc. I did buy new P&Cs so knock $3,000 off if you don't need them, but I haven't spoken to any reputable engine builder that would reuse 150k+ mile P&Cs. All new chains, guides, rings, seals and mounts plus all clutch hardware.

Photos once we start the rebuild.

 

Great thread! It's good to have friends you trust who can do the rebuild.

 

Same here. I was concerned with consumption after a complete rebuild. After 10k miles it has almost completely disappeared.

 

Sorry but there are so many points in your post that are simply not right. I have seen many many rebuilds over the years and the only time I've seen a need for a new head or heads is when the engine has let go. Like wise the oil pumps, they are super reliable unless debris has entered the system and are rarely replaced. P&C do not have a mileage limit either, they are either in spec or they aren't. You will see low mile town cars out of spec as maybe they sat in hot traffic all their early life and others that are virtually perfect way past 100k. Rockers and valve springs are common replacement parts, again inspection will reveal need or not. Oil tank / lines/thermostat/cooler etc all should be inspected carefully come rebuild time. Any weak spots in a 30 year old old system have the potential to damage a fresh engine in very short order...

 

Specifically. What about my posts is not right? Others, on this forum, have posted about their heads and the ceramics flaking off, their oil pumps chewed up from debris, pistons ovaled out of spec. Not sure what your major complaints are but I can assure you the entire process has been looked at by 3 independent and well respected builders of 964 motors. Art Arrendondo, building the motor personally, is the crew chief of an IMSA Porsche racing team, Wright Motor Sports, you can probably appreciate my following his advice on how to build my motor back to factory specs, while I appreciate your posting, your input will naturally be second to those that do this for a living and have done so for the past 30 years.
My P&Cs were within factor specs but only on the number, for $3300 I went with new because I NEVER WANT TO DO THIS AGAIN. Reminds me when they asked Neil Armstrong how it felt, waiting in the capsule to blast off to the moon and make history. He said it was an honor of course, but tempered with the knowledge that every one of the 1 billion parts in the Apollo rocket went to the lowest bidder.
I would like the closest thing to a new factory spec 3.6 motor, not a refreshed motor using parts barely or not in spec and built by the lowest bidder. I'll post the final $ number, if you can get yours done for less good luck to you, my best advice though is to wait till yours is all apart, bound to be a few surprises waiting for you.

 

Forums are a place to exchange knowledge and ideas. I’ve rebuilt my 964 engine in my garage by myself, but know my limits and more than once I’ve been helped by accepting others insights.

Reading ras62’s prior posts over the last eight years, I suspect he’s speaking from experience. There are a few others here that I suspect are more experienced than they admit as well. Jason Andreas is a good example. You don’t have to accept what they say but it’s wise to listen in any case.

 

I enjoyed my rebuild journey so I know the issues well enough, but lets be clear, you're reusing old parts so it will never be a new engine, new P&C don't change that. It is a rebuilt motor and I'm sure you will love it. Please don't make sweeping statements, as I have said above they are exception not the norm.
Worth a mention, you should consider replacing the inlet stacks and rubbers, I chose 993 items as they were a fraction of the cost of the 964 parts. Oh, and replace the headstuds