1992 C2/5 rebuild engine
#16
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I like your plan and agree - its a fantastic engine just as it left the factory. I'd make the case to keep the P&C if they really are in spec. You can buy name brand replacements but they will be just that and one never knows if the quality etc is the same. Whats a set of P&C cost? Might it not equal or approach the labor cost to replace yours should it need them in the future? I opened my 3.2 motor at maybe 130k and found no perceptible wear to P&C. Porsche / Mahle got that dead on. While they buggered the valve guides and head studs ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
When I opened my 964 motor this time last year I replaced the rings and left the P/C and have a nice tight strong motor that doesn't use any oil.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
When I opened my 964 motor this time last year I replaced the rings and left the P/C and have a nice tight strong motor that doesn't use any oil.
Last edited by r-mm; 05-13-2021 at 09:12 AM.
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Based on what the machine shop suggests I went with new Mahle 3.6:
Clean / Inspect & Evaluate 964 Pistons and Cylinders. ( They are
OE Mahle Nikasil. But are @ the W.L. for Ovality. They may
perform once new rings are installed. But there IS Risk of
"Cold-Start" Smoking. If budget allows? We suggest replacement
I was so lucky with the rest of the expensive parts being in good condition I just don't want to risk having an issue using marginal parts. I got a good deal on the new set which the Machine shop will test prior to installation. I want a rebuilt motor not a refresh; the parts we are reusing such as the crank and cams will be polished, the oil pump was like new (the benefits of frequent oil changes) anything else that doesn't test perfect will be replaced with OEM.
Clean / Inspect & Evaluate 964 Pistons and Cylinders. ( They are
OE Mahle Nikasil. But are @ the W.L. for Ovality. They may
perform once new rings are installed. But there IS Risk of
"Cold-Start" Smoking. If budget allows? We suggest replacement
I was so lucky with the rest of the expensive parts being in good condition I just don't want to risk having an issue using marginal parts. I got a good deal on the new set which the Machine shop will test prior to installation. I want a rebuilt motor not a refresh; the parts we are reusing such as the crank and cams will be polished, the oil pump was like new (the benefits of frequent oil changes) anything else that doesn't test perfect will be replaced with OEM.
#18
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If I had my engine out again I would seriously look at adding a second filter like the 993. I don’t think Porsche were that smart to leave the engine vulnerable to items entering the oil system post filter. They get straight into the engine ala Deserion’s case and kill bearings.
The following users liked this post:
Deserion (05-13-2021)
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^^^ Yes I looked into that exactly, in fact Turner I think makes a bracket for the filter but there is a fair amount of plumbing needed according to my mechanic, not just a bolt on.
#21
Instructor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I’d be interested to know what your oil consumption is like for the first few thousand miles after the rebuild. I installed new Mahle p&c’s and despite following a proper post rebuild run in it was using around 1lt per 1000kms - this obviously had me pretty concerned. According to a local Porsche mechanic, these nikasil cylinders and rings are incredibly hard and take several thousand miles to bed in. I’ve now done 6,000kms and there’s near zero oil consumption and the engine revs effortlessly.
![burnout](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/burnout.gif)
#22
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Looking forward to the results.
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I’d be interested to know what your oil consumption is like for the first few thousand miles after the rebuild. I installed new Mahle p&c’s and despite following a proper post rebuild run in it was using around 1lt per 1000kms - this obviously had me pretty concerned. According to a local Porsche mechanic, these nikasil cylinders and rings are incredibly hard and take several thousand miles to bed in. I’ve now done 6,000kms and there’s near zero oil consumption and the engine revs effortlessly. ![burnout](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/burnout.gif)
![burnout](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/burnout.gif)
Here is a debate team question: Break in. Do you drive it hard from day 1 (once it warms up) or do you keep it under 4000 rpm till the 1000 mile service?
#25
Instructor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It may not matter either way but to me, letting the parts get to know each other for the first 1,000miles makes sense. It isn’t going to cause any harm other than maybe extend the run in period, cost you a bit more oil and exercise your self control!
#26
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
After your break in oil is removed I would think you can drive her hard.
#27
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
There are a lot of P shops here in Socal, I spoke to quite a few of them, as well as Steve Weiner up north and Frank Beck in AZ, both of whom I would gladly drive to but have fairly long wait times. One of my requirements was that Competition Engineering (Walt Watson) do the machine work and that eliminated a few shops. Others I found dirty and disorganized, shocking in some cases from major names bandied about here. If your shop is a real mess, and shops aren't operating theaters I know, are you sure everything you took off my motor is mine and is going back on properly? Cause it looks like some here and some there, and some over there.
#28
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
No special plumbing is required to addd the 993 filter console. I’m adding it on my build. Just need the console, a turbo thermostat housing and supposedly need to add a spacer to one of the pressure release valves.
Pete
Pete
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)