PC2

Continue from another thread. https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=121750

ACFOUR, I don't believe this particular set of splitters will effects the ground clearance. It only adds the protruding lips and does not extend downward. However, I will measure it once it's off of the stands.

PC2

I did not prep them at all. What you see in the picture is the way I got them. They were already primed with a single coat of black paint. The surfaces and edges are pretty smooth, but I will most likely go over them with a fine sand paper. All I'm doing right now is fitting them before I send it to the body shop for spraying. I've also purchased a pair of air ducts to replace the fog lights which will be sprayed at the same time.

PC2

This picture shows the splitter installed without the Door sill trim. Notice the gaps between the two.

PC2

This picture shows the splitters installed with the door sill trims.

PC2

I've finished mounting the splitters but will need to use Dremel to sand off some materials on the corners for a better fit. Here's a picture of it installed but not yet finished.

JoeW

On the black, I think the door sill trim is surely the way to go. On other colors it may be a little obtrusive tho -- (I'm thinking of my white one!) Joe W.

PC2

Here it is! It took approx. 3.5 hours total to fit and install. The splitters were primed in black when I got it so not too much prep work. The splitters goes over the lower valance and uses the original mounting points. All you use are 3 screws per side plus one for the inner fender lip. The hardest part would be drilling the holes on the splitters to match the ones on the valance. I got lazy so I eyeballed it and screwed up one of the points. I would strongly suggest using a tape measure to measure the points. But before drilling, you need to make sure the fit is correct by holding it to the bumper and marking with a chalk where there are excessive materials. This is where the Dremel tools comes handy. The factory door sill trim worked really great hiding the gaps from my amerature installation. It gives it the factory look.

Items used:

#10 X 1" SS machine screws and washer (6)
reuse Porsche OEM SCREW 4.8 X 16 (2) - For inner fender
Porsche "Door Sill Trim" 9645592930101C (1) Cut to size

Special Tools:

Cordless Drill
Dremel Tool - For fitting

I'll be driving with it for a week to make sure it's correctly mounted before I send it off to the body shop for spraying.

PC2

Here's a side view

joey bagadonuts

FANTASTIC!!! Looks friggin' mean!

On the prep part, would it have been easier to get a perfect fit if you had removed the Factory valance and used that as a template to determine the correct location to drill into the splitter? I know there are about 12 screws for each half and getting them back into place is not always a snap with all those brackets but it seems the inconvenience might make for a cleaner install. Does this make sense?

RSAErick

I agree with Joe... it gives the car a more agressive look. But it doesn't look overdone, either. I like it, actually. I'll be really anxious to see a side by side comparison with the Ruf piece.

I hate to get too bogged down in tech-talk... errr, actually I don't. But does anyone know the science behind downforce and lift reduction with these splitters/valences? I am assuming that one wants to minimize the amount of air the goes under the car to reduce lift... or create downforce? Is there a difference? Does this splitter intend to allow the air under the center of the car, whereas the Ruf does not? Anyone know why? Also, does the "lip" on the bottom of the splitter provide actual downforce? I notice that the Ruf unit does not have a protruding "lip".

Obviously we have heard some first-hand testimonials that the front end "feels" more firmly planted with these devices. That's great. I'm just curious why? Unfortunately, I'm sometimes overly "function-oriented", and would be hesitant to add anything to the car for simple aesthetic reasons (although I do like the look). I could better justify these devices if I understood exactly what they were doing.

Thanks for any clarification.

Erick

Doug H

Very very cool. I love the look of the two peice splitter. Actually, all of the front splitters look good, but I think the two piece nudges everything out by just a little.

PC2

I think the method you suggested might have worked if the splitters were made with ABS plastic and that each piece was identical. But because their made from fiberglass, they aren't very straight and every piece is a bit different. During the installation, I had to strech the splitters a bit to get it to conform to the body. I would suggest drilling one hole at a time and make sure you take time to check that the opposite side has not warped due to tightening. It may sound hard, but really isn't. Just require some patience and very creative problem solving.

JoeW

Erick, I've seen posted in a couple of places that the Ruf valance works by passing air further beneath the car. I don't recall seeing an explanation of the physics for the splitters. Joe W

Hey, it's a start!

PC2

Here's a very informative article on "Splitter Theroy". http://e30m3performance.com/myths/splitter/splitter.htm

RSAErick

Peter,
Thanks for the article. It was interesting. It appears that your particular splitter functions in two ways....

1. Downforce: The components that added create downforce by generating high pressure point on the splitter.

2. Venturi: Because the splitter does not extend to the middle of the bumper, it encourages air from this region to travel under the car. This would result in a low pressure region under the car, which creates a venturi effect under the car - also creating downforce.

I wonder how well it works...

Erick