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That's a good point. I probably won't do much swapping on this car except for winter storage. I have a set of aftermarket Cup 2s with winter tires that will probably go on for the car to sit on over the winter. Your responses have been very helpful - Thanks
On a different point - I thought about getting the valve stem hole moved to the right place during the refinish but I think I'll just leave it as a unique odd ball and let people wonder and speculate that it's not a factory wheel.
It's a bit of a monster thread. There is a ton in there as we went down the rabbit hole...
The reason to not use the oem alluminum is that i tend to take wheels on and off a lot and i use an impact gun- so the steel holds up better. And secondly an open nut with longer studs allows me to use different wheels and different spacing. So if i want to use my d90 with snow tires and no spacers to keep all the winter muck under the wells...that can be done.
But- if you know exactly how much spacing and measure right, sure- you can just, for example, get a 52mm front lug to use with a 7mm spacer and use the oem Aluminium nuts...
That is a monster thread but has lots of helpful information. I found the reference to the studs on page 24 of 79. Also the helpful hint of using a C clamp with a socket to press out the old studs. You guys are amazing. I'm only doing light lifting on my 964 Targa project by comparison.
Definitely leave the valve alone. It's just too humorous as it is- you have to imagine either how tired the guy was...and he never noticed- or what an idiot he felt like when he did notice...
The center caps for these wheels are in rough shape. I was looking at new ones - this particular type are $104 each. Problem is new caps might not match the refinished wheels so I thought I'd take a shot at refinishing them. The caps will be finished the same color as the wheels but the Porsche crests were pretty ugly. I was able to remove the crests by drilling a small hole in the retaining clips on the back of the crests. With a 9/64" drill the clip essentially breaks as the hole is completed. I'll have to replace the clips but that's better than breaking the pins on the crests or distorting them trying to pry them off.
With the crests removed - I cleaned them with some solvent and a brush. I used a clear coat scratch pen to restore the color of the black and also coated the brass areas to add gloss and protect.
I found some red Rustoleum spray paint in the garage and just sprayed some into the cap. I used a shirt stay and a sharp pointed probe to flow in the red paint into the red areas of the crest.
The crests look much better. I'll go back after the paint dries and clean up the lines between the red and the black with a fine blade.
I might also add a second coat of red.
That isn't a Porsche oem part. Where did you see them for 104 each?
I believe you are correct. There was a gentleman years ago Ralph Booth who made extended lug bolts and licensed crested caps in various fitments. Mostly for the Fikse wheels but I believe he made them to fit standard Porsche wheels as well. They all had the same patent number sticker on the back like this one does. AFAIK he is no longer in business. AFAIK the factory Gold lettering center caps have not been available for over 2 decades when they switched to the black lettering for the 993's. The factory caps had a stamped metal plate affixed to the aluminum face. These appear to be a single piece of aluminum like the Booth parts. He made a very nice product.
These are the factory caps I have. I touched these up but still can't seem to find the touch up paint I used. It would appear they are close but the dia of the indented circle seems to be off.
These have the extended lug nuts I was talking about The Fikse caps with same patent sticker and crest.
As I said, Boothe Design caps, they maybe listed out there on the net but you wont actually get any. You could always just replace the badge, you would have to drill a hole as they would probably have a single stud on the back. A expensive way of doing it, and your DIY job looks a lot better than they used to! Anthony, your caps are indeed Genuine Porsche, as fitted to the 964 3.6
As I said, Boothe Design caps, they maybe listed out there on the net but you wont actually get any. You could always just replace the badge, you would have to drill a hole as they would probably have a single stud on the back. A expensive way of doing it, and your DIY job looks a lot better than they used to! Anthony, your caps are indeed Genuine Porsche, as fitted to the 964 3.6
I somehow missed your post. After all it was three long days ago. I have to stop drinking. This pandemic is getting to me.
Never thought about sanding sidewalls. I like that idea.
Old American hot rodder thing...mine still need a little work and i haven't worked out exactly how fine to go w the sanding - and it's lot of time to get it right. But i like the end result a lot.
My initial thought was to just have the crests done in the same color as the wheels. I decided to tinker with the crests first. Going from this to silver would be allot easier than going from silver to the original gold, red and black.
Old American hot rodder thing...mine still need a little work and i haven't worked out exactly how fine to go w the sanding - and it's lot of time to get it right. But i like the end result a lot.
I used a round thing on an air tool for the first pass- as at that point i was just playing. But then after all the lettering was gone, i used a sanding sponge and progressively finer grit- wet sand with soap as a lube...
Be mindful to not remove information you may need- like a date stamp.
Do i need to say "track use only- or do this at your own risk"...i think any messing with tires or any other safety equipment- we all realize this is on you entirely to be careful. In my case, i only took off the raised letters and didn't thin out the sidewalls at all....so pay attention and think it through please. I'd not want to hear about blowouts later...
I got my wheel back today and Wellis Inc did a great job. They have been really busy during the CV19 thing and I didn't have a running car so I told them to take their time.
Ouch - this picture looked much better on my phone. So I'm working through the Cup 1 spacing on my car. The rears bolted on without spacers but could use spacers to push the fitment out just a little. The fronts needed spacers due to the higher 65mm offset. I purchased 7mm spacers with studs made by H & R. The spacers do allow the installation of the front wheels without rubbing - at least in basic driving around. One thing that was disappointing was the H&R kit shipped with studs that are the same length as the factory 964 studs - 45mm measured from the end of the thread to the stud collar. By my view - and H&R's stated standards - those studs are not long enough to run with the spacers with a factory Porsche aluminum wheel. I got 6.5 turns on the stud - H & R recommends minimum 7.5. Even at that - there would still be threads showing at the end of a steal lug nut.
Steel lug nuts on 45mm studs with H&R 7mm spacer.
Looking at this picture - I 'd say it could take 3 full turns to get the stud to the end of the lug threads. That would be closer to 10 turns. I don't question whether 7.5 is safe or unsafe but I don't like the look. I guess you wouldn't see that if using a capped aluminum lug nut but I still want more thread on the lug than what I see here - even with one more full turn. I'll not share my conversation with the guy at H&R. Suffice to say this is not a working option for me.
05-10-2020, 04:23 PM
I have to stop drinking. This pandemic is getting to me.
