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I'm sure someone else has had their spoiler fail like mine but the vast majority of the threads concern the worm drive bearing, so I'm starting my own.
This is a hard thing to get a photo of but my spoiler has been finicky lately and often I'll end a drive with it halfway deployed. I noticed today that the large driven gear is chewed up on the side that faces away from the motor. A closer look on the side facing the motor suggests some sheet metal has come loose by what I believe to be an adjuster screw of some sort. Has anyone seen this before?
I'm not sure if you can see it where you are but the TV program wheeler dealers fixed a 993 spoiler by replacing the toothed bracket (part 31 in your diagram). There was no other damage though.
I think you just need to disconnect the cable drive and confirm that your motor and cable drive is functioning properly. If that works then you need to rebuild the mechanical drive system, replace parts as necessary, do the worm gear lubrication service. Looks like a dry corroded mess in that area.
I'll do more disassembly today to test things. I ordered a new bearing and 2-part adhesive so I can repair the drive box one, even if its preventative.
Some disassembly reveals the sheet metal clamp that forms the bracket for the rearmost limit switch has come out from under the adjuster screw and gotten mangled by the big gear. I think i can repair it but went to check what a new one costs and was surprised to find it is not listed in PET and also not the same as switch #1.
Regarding testing the motor, which is now removed, is this as simple as applying 12v then reversing polarity of 12v ?
I was able to straighten that bracket, reinstall and all is good.
I also took the opportunity to re-blacken the louvers using a recipe from my BMW days that has not let me down yet. I don't have thousands of hours of UV exposure testing to report back on. https://bimmertips.com/renew-faded-b...without-paint/
That looks pretty good! In case that link disappears here is the magic formula. I see you have the common corner spoiler crack as does my C2.
What does work?
Nothing will bring your plastic trim back 100% to factory, but there is a lesser known but very effective option that is often overlooked. A 50/50 mixture mix of Boiled Linseed Oil and Paint Thinner will restore the vibrancy of the plastic as well as add a layer of protection. This solution is a good way to restore your OEM trim without ruining it with paint.
What is Boiled Linseed Oil?
Linseed oil is a natural oil extracted from flax seed. It is primarily used to preserve concrete and wood from deterioration. It is also used in many paints and wood stains. Boiled linseed oil can be found at your local hardware store in the paint section. Make sure to purchase the BOILED linseed oil, the unboiled will not be effective.
What is purpose of mixing it with paint thinner?
The paint thinner helps improve drying time. Japan drier or turpentine also works as well.
Downsides of using Boiled Linseed Oil?
It is not 100% lifelong preservation, you will have to go back and restore the plastic eventually. This may be every few years or every few months depending on the exposure levels of your plastics to the sun. Boiled Linseed oil is also not UV proof.
It seems to last longer than Mothers Back to Black. On recommendation I ordered some Forever Black to test as well. I'm not warranting the linseed oil as a magic or especially durable formula, just something I have the ingredients for and reach for when I have an assembly apart and want to give it a little love before bolting it back together.
04-13-2020, 09:15 AM
New type of spoiler failure?
