NBL

1991 964 C2
A while ago I posted a thread on how I changed the front well bearings. Now I have done the rear bearings and thought I would post that also, as the steps are different due to the drives shaft. Here is how I did it.

Tools
Dewalt impact driver
two 32 mm sockets
Bearing puller set - see photo
Slide hammer set – see photo






Step 1 - undo axle nut

I leave the wheel on and the car on the ground to do this. With the handbrake on. Use the impact driver to remove the axle nut. I tried a very long breaker bar, but it just bent. The Dewalt impact driver chewed away at it for about 5 seconds then it loosened off. Throw the used axle nuts away, they are one use only.





Step 2 - remove brakes
To take the caliper off there are two 10 mm allen bolts. The top one is easy with an Allen head socket. The bottom one can only be accessed through a hole in the swing arm. I took a 10 mm Allen key and cut off the elbow, then put a 10 mm socket and wrench on it to loosen the bolt. String up the caliper out of the way. Remove the rotor. There are two little screws holding it on. They could be rusted in, and you might need an impact screw driver to remove. Mine came straight out easily.








Step 3 – remove hub
Remove the axle nut. Attach the slide hammer plate to the hub and the centre screw so it sits hard on the end of the axle. Tighten the centre screw and the hub will pop off. The outside bearing race will come off with the hub. This will be separated later.







Step 4 – remove axle
Remove the 13mm nuts holding the bearing support brackets and take them off. Loosen the 6 allen bolts holding the axle to the transmission. The axle will slide out. Others I read had removed the heating hoses to get the axles out, I didn’t need to an they came out easy. Straightforward.







Step 5 – remove bearing
Set up the bearing puller with the right size disc on the inner side so you can pull the bearing out the outer side. I used the impact driver, which some say you shouldnt do, but go slow with short bursts and it was fine. Bearing steadily came out. Clean up all the surfaces.







Step 6 - install new bearing

Tap the new bearing into place with a rubber mallet just so it sits there without holding it. Use the bearing puller to pull the new bearing into place.

Reattach the bearing support brackets and 13 mm bolts.








Step 7 – separate hub and bearing race
Lock the hub in a vice. Use a bearing puller (came with my slide hammer) with two arms to pull the bearing. There is a space under the bearing race in the hub so you can fit the puller arms under the race. Put a cap on top of the hub and screw the centre pin using the impact driver. I used some heat as well. Came off easily.








Step 8 – install hub
Using the bearing puller in reverse, install the hub into the new bearing.





Step 9 – install axle
Slide the axle into the hub. I used the old axle nut to pull the axle into the hub. The transmission end is a very tight fit. At first I thought it wasn’t going to fit in, but if you move the axle up the side of the transmission mount, it will slide I into place. Torque the allen bolts to 60 ft pnds.





Step 10 – install new axle nut
Remove the old nut and install a new one. Torque to 339 ft pnds.





Done. Was pretty straight forward. Can’t be done without the tools though!!

Dick964

Thanks, great write up and clear pictures !!



greetings,

Dick964

titleistaddict87

How many miles on your car and did you notice significant wear with the original bearings? Any impressions post refresh?

NBL

The car has 145,000 kms. I was hearing a rubbing sound when turning had right coming from the left rear wheel. That sound is gone now. I was sure it drives smoother, but that might be my brain tricking me....

-nick

Great job! I like using a long allen/hex socket for the allen bolts and taking them off by hand. To me, a longer allen socket makes it easier to stab the allen bolt straight. Stripping one of those bolts is a miserable experience.



And just because this always causes confusion, and C4 owners do not want to mistakenly use the C2 torque-

60 ftlbs == C2 M10 cv joint allen bolts
32 ftlbs == C4 M8 cv joint allen bolts (both front and rear axles)

A914MAN

Excellent tutorial!