Would you pay 55K for my 1992 c2?
#46
Rennlist Member
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Irrespective of what the car sells for or doesn't I don't get the miles vs top end argument. I have seen 65k mile cars with 15% leakdown poor compression barely pumping out 200bhp and a 92 with 200k+ miles, original engine never split and it showed between 6-8% leadown and tested at 240bhp, no oil burning but has had all the proper maintenance done over the years. Which engine is in better condition? Will the 200k mile engine need a top end IMO most likely a full rebuild but how many more miles will it go without issues? I would be more concerned about a 75k mile early engine needing a top end than a 165k mile late engine assuming the numbers come back ok on the late engine. Just my $.02.
From my experience there are no given miles when these need a top end it all depends on how the car was treated, that is what PPI's are for. Last I saw this car IIRC it had about 60k less miles (glad to see it was driven) and had recently had all the typical rust issues addressed properly. I have no idea of the current condition but $40k for a Coupe without any accident damage? I have seen several C2 coupes sell in the past few weeks I don't know the selling price of one but I see no impact on the market as of yet. In fact it seems to be moving the other direction. Possibly people are looking for a release and driving might be one way.
From my experience there are no given miles when these need a top end it all depends on how the car was treated, that is what PPI's are for. Last I saw this car IIRC it had about 60k less miles (glad to see it was driven) and had recently had all the typical rust issues addressed properly. I have no idea of the current condition but $40k for a Coupe without any accident damage? I have seen several C2 coupes sell in the past few weeks I don't know the selling price of one but I see no impact on the market as of yet. In fact it seems to be moving the other direction. Possibly people are looking for a release and driving might be one way.
#47
Drifting
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Irrespective of what the car sells for or doesn't I don't get the miles vs top end argument. I have seen 65k mile cars with 15% leakdown poor compression barely pumping out 200bhp and a 92 with 200k+ miles, original engine never split and it showed between 6-8% leadown and tested at 240bhp, no oil burning but has had all the proper maintenance done over the years. I would be more concerned about a 75k mile early engine needing a top end than a 165k mile late engine assuming the numbers come back ok on the late engine. Just my $.02..
With that said, always buy the seller and not the car (or parts, or whatever) and there should be limited to no concerns.
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Tioga120 (04-23-2020)
#48
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I’ve never understood it either and it always comes up when someone has a FS and the car has 80K+ miles. It seems that people have a fear of reaching or passing the 100K miles and automatically assume the 964 will need a top end as soon as they purchase it. If a car runs well and gives no indication that something is wrong, it is not the seller’s responsibility to subsidize future maintenance but rather the buyer’s responsibility to make an informed decision through a PPI and then assume all future costs following a successful purchase.
With that said, always buy the seller and not the car (or parts, or whatever) and there should be limited to no concerns.
With that said, always buy the seller and not the car (or parts, or whatever) and there should be limited to no concerns.
#49
Rennlist Member
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I’ve never understood it either and it always comes up when someone has a FS and the car has 80K+ miles. It seems that people have a fear of reaching or passing the 100K miles and automatically assume the 964 will need a top end as soon as they purchase it. If a car runs well and gives no indication that something is wrong, it is not the seller’s responsibility to subsidize future maintenance but rather the buyer’s responsibility to make an informed decision through a PPI and then assume all future costs following a successful purchase.
With that said, always buy the seller and not the car (or parts, or whatever) and there should be limited to no concerns.
With that said, always buy the seller and not the car (or parts, or whatever) and there should be limited to no concerns.