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Would you pay 55K for my 1992 c2?

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Old 04-23-2020, 09:19 AM
  #46  
cobalt
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Irrespective of what the car sells for or doesn't I don't get the miles vs top end argument. I have seen 65k mile cars with 15% leakdown poor compression barely pumping out 200bhp and a 92 with 200k+ miles, original engine never split and it showed between 6-8% leadown and tested at 240bhp, no oil burning but has had all the proper maintenance done over the years. Which engine is in better condition? Will the 200k mile engine need a top end IMO most likely a full rebuild but how many more miles will it go without issues? I would be more concerned about a 75k mile early engine needing a top end than a 165k mile late engine assuming the numbers come back ok on the late engine. Just my $.02.

From my experience there are no given miles when these need a top end it all depends on how the car was treated, that is what PPI's are for. Last I saw this car IIRC it had about 60k less miles (glad to see it was driven) and had recently had all the typical rust issues addressed properly. I have no idea of the current condition but $40k for a Coupe without any accident damage? I have seen several C2 coupes sell in the past few weeks I don't know the selling price of one but I see no impact on the market as of yet. In fact it seems to be moving the other direction. Possibly people are looking for a release and driving might be one way.
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Old 04-23-2020, 12:08 PM
  #47  
LPMM
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Originally Posted by cobalt
Irrespective of what the car sells for or doesn't I don't get the miles vs top end argument. I have seen 65k mile cars with 15% leakdown poor compression barely pumping out 200bhp and a 92 with 200k+ miles, original engine never split and it showed between 6-8% leadown and tested at 240bhp, no oil burning but has had all the proper maintenance done over the years. I would be more concerned about a 75k mile early engine needing a top end than a 165k mile late engine assuming the numbers come back ok on the late engine. Just my $.02..
I’ve never understood it either and it always comes up when someone has a FS and the car has 80K+ miles. It seems that people have a fear of reaching or passing the 100K miles and automatically assume the 964 will need a top end as soon as they purchase it. If a car runs well and gives no indication that something is wrong, it is not the seller’s responsibility to subsidize future maintenance but rather the buyer’s responsibility to make an informed decision through a PPI and then assume all future costs following a successful purchase.

With that said, always buy the seller and not the car (or parts, or whatever) and there should be limited to no concerns.
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Old 04-23-2020, 01:08 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by LPMM
I’ve never understood it either and it always comes up when someone has a FS and the car has 80K+ miles. It seems that people have a fear of reaching or passing the 100K miles and automatically assume the 964 will need a top end as soon as they purchase it. If a car runs well and gives no indication that something is wrong, it is not the seller’s responsibility to subsidize future maintenance but rather the buyer’s responsibility to make an informed decision through a PPI and then assume all future costs following a successful purchase.

With that said, always buy the seller and not the car (or parts, or whatever) and there should be limited to no concerns.
Exactly - 100%
Old 04-24-2020, 08:43 AM
  #49  
cobalt
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Originally Posted by u7t2p7
Of all the posts on this thread only one person suggested $40k was the number and that was based on the weak presentation. The consensus seems to be a value at $45k...so a slightly higher list is reasonable. The last 2 sentences highlighted contradict each other.
In what way do they contradict each other? One was asking a question in disbelief, the other a statement. I know this isn't a $40k car and IMO it is closer to a $50k car than $40k. I don't think $55k is outlandish to ask for it assuming it is as I saw it last irrespective of the miles. But as I said that is what PPI's are for and not just any shop but by someone who knows these cars.

Originally Posted by LPMM
I’ve never understood it either and it always comes up when someone has a FS and the car has 80K+ miles. It seems that people have a fear of reaching or passing the 100K miles and automatically assume the 964 will need a top end as soon as they purchase it. If a car runs well and gives no indication that something is wrong, it is not the seller’s responsibility to subsidize future maintenance but rather the buyer’s responsibility to make an informed decision through a PPI and then assume all future costs following a successful purchase.

With that said, always buy the seller and not the car (or parts, or whatever) and there should be limited to no concerns.
I agree if only buyers educated themselves more about what they are looking at. It is interesting how early cars without any engine work and 60k miles will sell without question but late engined 964's with over 100k will sit or be questioned. I know these all offer the same experience although knowing them from the bottom side up I would prefer a higher mile well maintained late MY over an early MY car. Just too many improvements made over the years and it clearly shows when working on them. Odo numbers are easily falsified and many cars have far more miles than the odo says anyhow. Each car is different and needs to be evaluated on a car by car basis. So many have traded hands many times and records or memories lost. There are many cars for sale and have sold that have had bad and poorly repaired accident damage, bad paintwork and or suggestions of engine reseals and or rebuilds but no records or work done by people who have no clue. It seems there are still people looking for a cheap 964 which just doesn't exist. You either pay up front or in the long run. Sad part is I take cars apart that were worked on by well known and reputable shops and I find all sorts of scarry work done. I recently pulled a transmission on a car that the reputable shop forgot to install the pilot bearing, had the wrong clutch disc and did not replace the tube on the trans for the RS flywheel. The Dia are different from the dual mass and requires it to be changed. So there are no guarantees. Unfortunately even a good PPI can't tell if this is an issue until it is taken apart.



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