Kahdmus

Thanks everyone for the ongoing education (rennlist is such a great fountain of learning !) No, I definately did NOT have any dampers on the back and the old pads were just slid into the caliper. Would anyone feel strongly that I should add some?

Tom - thanks again for the encouragement. Still not got my leak taken care of....so its like an oil change spread out over time! ;-) Looking forward to another Big basin run!

Cheers,

--Howard.

dumluk

Does anyone have any experience regarding dust and noise with the Mintex pads available at Tweeks? Ferodo doesn't make rear pads for my 90 C2.

Recommendations?
Thanks.

Bill Wagner

Thanks to all who responded.

The pictures that Bill Verberg posted are EXACTLY what I was talking about.

FWIW, I replaced the dampers on one side of my fronts, probably about two years ago. Then the other side started making noise. It wasn't bad enough to really be that bothersome...just a little bit of squeal as the car slowed to a stop, and it wasn't even there all the time. Over the last month, the noise (squealing) suddenly got REALLY bad from the untouched side. If I push the car and do some heavy braking (and not really THAT heavy...just heavy enough to get the brakes hot and dusty) the squeal is horrible. Several years ago, Jeff Curtis sent me some JPG files of his dampers and the "hat" had separated from the "stem". I'm really thinking that the same thing has happened to mine, so I just started figuring "why even bother with the damn things". Jeff (and others) said his noise went away with the dampers off. I'm also getting a little tired of having to detail the wheels about once a month because of the excessive brake dust.

Is there anyone out there who removed their anti-squeal "mushrooms" who still has a squealing problem??

TIA

paul715

For a brake pad replacement option try EBC greenstuff. This is an excellent street/track pad. It provides good wear and low dust with excellent stopping power. Far better than stock or metal master (horrible).
Tire rack has em for 89 per axle.


Paul

Kahdmus

Well, I have been feeling so very happy after all the work I did on the car this weekend (new pads, new sill rubber, new horn, front grille etc, etc), but suddenly last night my dash brake light came on. I have removed each wheel and checked the sensors - one seemed to have come unseated slightly - I made it secure and couldnt see another that was loose, but the light is still illuminated...do these things typically lend themselves to this type of frustration, or have I perhaps made an obvious error in the install?

--Howard

joey bagadonuts

Along with dampers, I also avoid using the sensors.

I check my pads often, though, since I track my car and the sensors would slow down the frequent swaps. They're actually on the car but zip tied back.

Bill Verburg

I have those lying around because I usually don't use them. Squeeling is more related to the pad material/rotr condition and accumulating mung than any thing else.

BS911

Howard,
I had an ongoing problem with the brake warning light coming on. I eventually found that it came on when turning hard left upon backing out of the driveway. Turned out that there was a cracked wire along the way from the sensor up to where it passes through the grommet headed into the trunk area. The sensor should be a closed loop and the break in the wire opened it, illuminating the light. So even if your sensors are plugged in correctly, you might just have a bad wire somewhere.

Michael Delaney

Some of the brake shops in my area are advertising ceramic brake pads. Has anyone seen or used these? Or is this just some new advertising gimmick?

Kahdmus

Thanks Brian, I guess I'll go back in and recheck again, with a careful eye on the surrounding wiring!

BTW, what is the recc torque for lug nuts, I seem to recall seeing 95lbs somewhere...anyone confirm?

Thanks,

--H

Michael Delaney

Kahdmus, Torque would be 94 ft/lbs (130 Nm).