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Underside and interior all done. Painted it in full gloss - not super practical but it well. Roof also going on.
Next steps are:
1. blend the carbon roof bond overlap points on the pillars.
2. Mask the apertures off and prime
3. Hand flat the primer
4. Unmask and fresh mask the apertures then paint 5. Along side the chassis the doors, rear lid ( outside only) and bonnet ( outside only) will be primed and prepared also
6. same again for all other parts such as bumpers etc
I am told there is another 100 hours of prep before the outside is painted.
I love these rotisserie pics. That engine is gorgeous! When Jeff speaks of it, it’s like he is talking about his most loved child. It’s a lot of money to buy, but worth the dollars for the right build. I think your lightweight car will be a rocket with it. The filter is his signature look though. Are you just replacing the brand of filter? Or removing it all together?
I love these rotisserie pics. That engine is gorgeous! When Jeff speaks of it, it’s like he is talking about his most loved child. It’s a lot of money to buy, but worth the dollars for the right build. I think your lightweight car will be a rocket with it. The filter is his signature look though. Are you just replacing the brand of filter? Or removing it all together?
I think I will first have a carbon piece made to cover the chrome k&n plate on the end of the filter. Similar to what they do on the Gunther Werks cars. Hopefully that will help. If it still looks crap, I’ll change the resonance flap to be at the front and move the filter to the back.
And you are correct.....these engine builds are not cheap. Eek!!
I had asked Jeff about moving the filter to the other side of the engine and he said it had to be that way on the 4L because of the resonate flap. The smaller displacement engines can have the filter facing towards the front of the car. The older Gunther Werks filter design had a conical turbine look as below ....
so I presume you are speaking about the new one like this
I agree with you, that if you can move it to the other side of the engine then do so. It detracts from the visual delight of the fan and the induction apparatus.
Last edited by GentlemanRacer; 02-15-2020 at 12:58 PM.
Reason: correction
I had asked Jeff about moving the filter to the other side of the engine and he said it had to be that way on the 4L because of the resonate flap. The smaller displacement engines can have the filter facing towards the front of the car. The older Gunther Werks filter design had a conical turbine look as below ....
so I presume you are speaking about the new one like this
I agree with you, that if you can move it to the other side of the engine then do so. It detracts from the visual delight of the fan and the induction apparatus.
Ill ask Jeff if it’s possible as agree it may be tricky to move the resonance flap. If i can’t, I will do the later style Gunther werks thingy (like the 4.0L cover, but will make it in carbon).
I had asked Jeff about moving the filter to the other side of the engine and he said it had to be that way on the 4L because of the resonate flap. The smaller displacement engines can have the filter facing towards the front of the car. The older Gunther Werks filter design had a conical turbine look as below ....
.
I always wondered about this and kept forgetting to ask. Mine points towards the front of the car but I always assumed it was to do with clearance for the engine lid, obviously not - thanks for clearing that up
Not sure why you can't make it work. Just takes some creative manufacturing. I am using the 996GT3 intakes as well it is a popular and relatively inexpensive way to make the intake. I won't be using the plastic flapper from the M96 engine shown since this will be a boosted engine and don't need it or see the value. I had to make the intake side which will probably be on the backside and I am searching for the proper DIa cast aluminum pipe. I removed all the unnecessary bosses and will paint this to match the rest of the engine bits but I have to say the quality of the 996GT3 intake castings is just awful. Full of shrinkage, porosity and core shifts some of which require weld repair. The indications on the right runner is from shrinkage it is present on both halves and I figured there would be some by the suck in around the bosses. The parts were never fed proper feed material and shrank while solidifying . Still have a lot of cleaning to do before painting.
Not sure why you can't make it work. Just takes some creative manufacturing. I am using the 996GT3 intakes as well it is a popular and relatively inexpensive way to make the intake. I won't be using the plastic flapper from the M96 engine shown since this will be a boosted engine and don't need it or see the value. I had to make the intake side which will probably be on the backside and I am searching for the proper DIa cast aluminum pipe. I removed all the unnecessary bosses and will paint this to match the rest of the engine bits but I have to say the quality of the 996GT3 intake castings is just awful. Full of shrinkage, porosity and core shifts some of which require weld repair. The indications on the right runner is from shrinkage it is present on both halves and I figured there would be some by the suck in around the bosses. The parts were never fed proper feed material and shrank while solidifying . Still have a lot of cleaning to do before painting.
Thanks Cobalt. Yeah, it should be able to work. May just have to make some tweaks.
BTW, your motor is looking great. What colour are you painting the plenum? And when are you getting the engine into the car?
Engine almost done. I don’t like the air filter so that will be changed.
Oh man, so much I've missed. I guess I glossed over the fact you went CoP. What management? Any plans to add heat? Looks like you have the same problem thats holding me up from doing a GT3 exhaust. Going electric, or foregoing entirely?
Oh man, so much I've missed. I guess I glossed over the fact you went CoP. What management? Any plans to add heat? Looks like you have the same problem thats holding me up from doing a GT3 exhaust. Going electric, or foregoing entirely?
Engine management is Motec M84 (with dual lambda)
No heat at this stage. But given I live in the UK I’ll probably die of hyperthermia. I am putting in electric aircon from Classic Retrofit and they can potentially do electric heating. I have fitted a super high output alternator specifically for it.
02-09-2020, 12:45 PM
