Anyone with 17" Cups have a solution??
#1
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Anyone with 17" Cups have a solution??
I was wondering if anyone here is using spacers with their cup rims.
In the picture below, the black car's rear rims seem more flush with the wheel well than my car (inset), and I was curious about spacers.
Clearly the black car is lower, but there must be a spacer being used.
Does anyone know the scoop?
Thanks!
Greg
In the picture below, the black car's rear rims seem more flush with the wheel well than my car (inset), and I was curious about spacers.
Clearly the black car is lower, but there must be a spacer being used.
Does anyone know the scoop?
Thanks!
Greg
#5
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On the black car there is a lot of negative camber set. If you do the same in your car you are going to have the same look. No spacers.. Just by looking at the pic I can tell you at least -1.5 to -2 negative all around. Your car seem to be set at factory levels which should be around 0 camber. The RS specs are usually set at -1 all around which would help your look and handling.
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the setup i used was 8" fronts (from the rear) - no spacers
9.5" rears with 1" spacers (porsche OEM) and longer studs.
this was on a rolled fender as well - you will have to roll the fenders and/or run a lot of Neg camber to fit a 9.5" rear wheel
you might be able to get away with the euro RS alignment settings. But the most important thing to do is to use the longer studs on any wheel with spacers on it - the stock ones are jsut too short.
Also i was running 235 & 275mm tires
I do not personally like to use spacers and had a set of Fiske wheels built for this tire combo.
9.5" rears with 1" spacers (porsche OEM) and longer studs.
this was on a rolled fender as well - you will have to roll the fenders and/or run a lot of Neg camber to fit a 9.5" rear wheel
you might be able to get away with the euro RS alignment settings. But the most important thing to do is to use the longer studs on any wheel with spacers on it - the stock ones are jsut too short.
Also i was running 235 & 275mm tires
I do not personally like to use spacers and had a set of Fiske wheels built for this tire combo.
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#11
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Remebmer 0ne thing, Too big spacers will damage your wheel bearings. The center line off the rims and the cente line of the bearing do not compare anymore, so one side of the bearing will have more work to do then the other side of that same bearing.
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very true - the 9.5" wheels are a 68mm offset if i remember correctly which allows the center line to be centered - that and the car was speced with these wheels for the racing series.
#13
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Rob,
Is that your car that I posted above?
If yes..... Ahhhhh... Sweet!
I currently have 245s rear and 215s in front. I was going to attempt bumping up to 255s and 225s. With, as you said the Euro RS settings.
I think it looks amazing. As is, my car handles quite well, despite never tracking it... So the true test will be Lime Rock time!
I've had experience with H&R spacers which usually come with longer bolts...
Is that your car that I posted above?
If yes..... Ahhhhh... Sweet!
I currently have 245s rear and 215s in front. I was going to attempt bumping up to 255s and 225s. With, as you said the Euro RS settings.
I think it looks amazing. As is, my car handles quite well, despite never tracking it... So the true test will be Lime Rock time!
I've had experience with H&R spacers which usually come with longer bolts...
#14
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A couple things here:
1) the black 964 pictured above either has spacers or less offset on what I would assume are aftermarket 17" Cup wheels.
2) negative camber tilts the top of the wheel/tire inwards, so more negative camber would cause the owner to have to put more spacers on to even up the edge of the tire with the edge of the wheel opening in that picture.
***so I agree that the car has probably at least -2deg. camber set in the rear, but there are spacers to bring the wheel back out...or a different offset wheel.***
3) 6-12mm is not going to affect your wheel bearings...different offsets on wheels serve the same purpose, so the 68mm offset that Rob has on his rear wheels is effectively taking up the 1/2" (~13mm) addition to the normal rear 9" 964 Cup wheel that would come with 55mm offset...no problems there, should fit like a champ.
So he's got 1/2" more load on his wheel bearings - any problems yet Rob?
FWIW, anyone who has had a rear wheel bearing out for replacement knows that they are LARGE, long and VERY stout...I doubt that 1/2" off-center will affect them whatsoever...now 3" or so, maybe.
I run 6mm spacers all day on my 964 for one main reason...I installed longer wheelstuds, so the factory aluminum lugnuts will not seat properly and will "bottom out" before proper contact with the wheel if I don't have the 6mm spacers in there while running my regular street wheels, which are 17" x 8.5" in the rear, 50mm offset Sport Classics off a Boxster "S"...with 255 series tires.
I installed rear wheelstuds that are 12mm longer than factory (57mm) - this allows me to stack 15mm worth of spacers in there and still be "track legal"...not to mention SAFE in my book.
I also keep 3mm spacers on the front, due to running 215 series tires on a 17" x 7" wheel, 55mm offset and have yet to install the correct steering stops that should eliminate rubbing with that combo...although they are waiting on the Workbench.
I would not advise running more than 3mm spacers with factory length studs (45mm) - 5mm at the MAX!!
If you wanna challenge that, put on a 6mm spacer and replace ONE of your lugnuts with a steel open lugnut...see how many threads are NOT in contact with the wheel stud and then imagine that you normally use ALUMINUM lug nuts. OH MY!!
At the track, I run all sorts of different combos from 245s to 275s in the rear, sometimes a 9" wide wheel and now a 10" wide wheel (which BTW is too wide...rubbing??...YES) With 275 Hoosiers at the rear, my right side requires 9-12mm of spacers, my left 6-9mm...depending on camber/toe settings at the time.
I just ordered a set of Fikses custom made that will be 17" x 8" and 9.5" and will not be rolling my rear fenderwells...at least not yet.
Plans are to still run Hoosier 245 and 275, but I have 750lb springs...so rubbing should be eliminated by bringing the tire sidewall OUT 1/2" from the right rear oil supply line...as the 10" wide wheels tends to made the sidewall stick out further than the tread width.
Hopefully my incessant rambling is helpful in your decision to run or not run spacers.
1) the black 964 pictured above either has spacers or less offset on what I would assume are aftermarket 17" Cup wheels.
2) negative camber tilts the top of the wheel/tire inwards, so more negative camber would cause the owner to have to put more spacers on to even up the edge of the tire with the edge of the wheel opening in that picture.
***so I agree that the car has probably at least -2deg. camber set in the rear, but there are spacers to bring the wheel back out...or a different offset wheel.***
3) 6-12mm is not going to affect your wheel bearings...different offsets on wheels serve the same purpose, so the 68mm offset that Rob has on his rear wheels is effectively taking up the 1/2" (~13mm) addition to the normal rear 9" 964 Cup wheel that would come with 55mm offset...no problems there, should fit like a champ.
So he's got 1/2" more load on his wheel bearings - any problems yet Rob?
FWIW, anyone who has had a rear wheel bearing out for replacement knows that they are LARGE, long and VERY stout...I doubt that 1/2" off-center will affect them whatsoever...now 3" or so, maybe.
I run 6mm spacers all day on my 964 for one main reason...I installed longer wheelstuds, so the factory aluminum lugnuts will not seat properly and will "bottom out" before proper contact with the wheel if I don't have the 6mm spacers in there while running my regular street wheels, which are 17" x 8.5" in the rear, 50mm offset Sport Classics off a Boxster "S"...with 255 series tires.
I installed rear wheelstuds that are 12mm longer than factory (57mm) - this allows me to stack 15mm worth of spacers in there and still be "track legal"...not to mention SAFE in my book.
I also keep 3mm spacers on the front, due to running 215 series tires on a 17" x 7" wheel, 55mm offset and have yet to install the correct steering stops that should eliminate rubbing with that combo...although they are waiting on the Workbench.
I would not advise running more than 3mm spacers with factory length studs (45mm) - 5mm at the MAX!!
If you wanna challenge that, put on a 6mm spacer and replace ONE of your lugnuts with a steel open lugnut...see how many threads are NOT in contact with the wheel stud and then imagine that you normally use ALUMINUM lug nuts. OH MY!!
At the track, I run all sorts of different combos from 245s to 275s in the rear, sometimes a 9" wide wheel and now a 10" wide wheel (which BTW is too wide...rubbing??...YES) With 275 Hoosiers at the rear, my right side requires 9-12mm of spacers, my left 6-9mm...depending on camber/toe settings at the time.
I just ordered a set of Fikses custom made that will be 17" x 8" and 9.5" and will not be rolling my rear fenderwells...at least not yet.
Plans are to still run Hoosier 245 and 275, but I have 750lb springs...so rubbing should be eliminated by bringing the tire sidewall OUT 1/2" from the right rear oil supply line...as the 10" wide wheels tends to made the sidewall stick out further than the tread width.
Hopefully my incessant rambling is helpful in your decision to run or not run spacers.
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No problems with the rear bearings - but i only have 23k miles on the car with about 11K street miles and the rest track time. (i was a bit of nut i guess, since i bought the car with 796 miles on it).
- I will take some picutres of the front rolled fenders next week (i'm heading to whistler to ski for the weekend)
- Please heed jeff's advice about the spacers and do not run too much with out changing the studs - there is not enough engagement in the treads to be safe.
- I will take some picutres of the front rolled fenders next week (i'm heading to whistler to ski for the weekend)
- Please heed jeff's advice about the spacers and do not run too much with out changing the studs - there is not enough engagement in the treads to be safe.