964 Cab manual conversion
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
964 Cab manual conversion
hey guys,
was able to convert my 964 top to manual conversion.
At the rear, i just disconnected the gearbox/motors.
For the front, i used 964 targa parts.
964 Targa Latch:
91156173003
91156172903
and the corresponding parts at the convertible side: one side (91156503263 96456503200) other side (91156503163 96456503100)
The parts fit plug&play.
Then you need two of the handles 91156507562 (270,-€ each). I used universal 6.5mm keys here.
I removed the fuse for the electrical motors.. no warning light, nothing...
now, it works manual... a little bit cosmetic work has to be done... then it looks like stock...
cheers thilo
(annoyed electric convertible user)
was able to convert my 964 top to manual conversion.
At the rear, i just disconnected the gearbox/motors.
For the front, i used 964 targa parts.
964 Targa Latch:
91156173003
91156172903
and the corresponding parts at the convertible side: one side (91156503263 96456503200) other side (91156503163 96456503100)
The parts fit plug&play.
Then you need two of the handles 91156507562 (270,-€ each). I used universal 6.5mm keys here.
I removed the fuse for the electrical motors.. no warning light, nothing...
now, it works manual... a little bit cosmetic work has to be done... then it looks like stock...
cheers thilo
(annoyed electric convertible user)
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#6
Drifting
have you used the part number: 911.565.707.01 between convertible frame and latch?
#7
Drifting
Trending Topics
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
that look like mine... i have the same windshield frame items and the manual lever at the convertible frame should also be the same... still waiting for the replacement part for the targa handle, that part costs 270,-€ per piece....
#9
Rennlist Member
So do you essentially just change the motors out for the targa latch in the top and just reuse the stock cabrio slotted bracket in the windscreen? Or do you have to replace the parts in the windscreen as well?
#11
The post on the latches is not 1/4" square.
One side is roughly 0.260 and the other side tapers from roughly 0.200 to 0.260 - didn't write down the exact values.
The 1/4" socket drive I have wont go on w/o grinding some off the post.
0.060 slop might wear down the posts with use.
Did not notice, but I imagine the tapers are mirror images such that the right handle wont work on the left post.
One side is roughly 0.260 and the other side tapers from roughly 0.200 to 0.260 - didn't write down the exact values.
The 1/4" socket drive I have wont go on w/o grinding some off the post.
0.060 slop might wear down the posts with use.
Did not notice, but I imagine the tapers are mirror images such that the right handle wont work on the left post.
#12
Three Wheelin'
Sorry that I never responded to your pm about this. The opening is trapezoidal shaped. There aren’t specific left/right handles and mine slips on either side just fine. There are several different part numbers for the late female style handles, but the only difference that I’m aware of is in the finish/shape of the molded plastic part. They all fit the latches equally fine.
#13
Roland - I did this conversion on my 964 cab several years back, using a “kit” of parts bought from DC Auto. It works great. Here is my post from a while back:
===========================
I converted my top to "full manual" operation, using the DC Automotive conversion kit and disengaging the motors that raise and lower the top. I reached this point after owning my 964 cab for 13 years because, at least 1/3rd of the time, the header panel motors were out of synch and one motor would pull the top down onto the windshield header panel but I couldn't completely close the top because the other motor was out of synch. I learned that replacing the motors would be quite expensive (~$1,000 each) and doing so is only a temporary solution as they will eventually fail again because they're electrical motors placed where they will get wet (they're covered from above only with the fabric of the convertible top).
The DC Automotive conversion kit consists of two L-shaped handles from a Targa top and the corresponding slotted alloy inserts for the windshield header (the "wheels" at the ends of the L-handles are positioned slightly differently than those at the ends of the motors, so the inserts need to be changed). The kit cost around $600 and I recouped some of the cost by selling my two motors (one good, one bad) on e*ay for around $400. DC Auto's contact info is here: http://dcauto.gotdns.com/questions/new (no affiliation). My mechanic charged me for a few hours of work to replace the motors and the slotted inserts. Unless you're a very good mechanic, I wouldn't try to do it yourself as it's very tricky taking apart the convertible top header panel without damaging it, removing the motors and getting the L-handles aligned properly. My mechanic had to cover the sensor button on the outside right side of the convertible top header panel with some tape (holding it "in") to get the top to go up and down despite the motors no longer being in the convertible top header panel.
My mechanic also removed the convertible top error light bulb from the clock, as that will be "on" due to the motors being missing from the convertible top header panel. Even without the bulb, you will still need to turn off the "!" warning light in the speedometer using the button on the center console each time you start the car, since the lack of the motors trip the convertible top error warning. That's a bit of an annoyance, but nowhere near as bad as worrying about whether the convertible top header panel is going to bind and fail to close every time I put the top up.
At the suggestion of someone on Pelican Parts, I also bought these "rosettes", which plug into the convertible top header panel around the shafts for the L-handles, giving the header panel a nice "factory" look with the L-handles fitted. See: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rosette-Pair...4f952d&vxp=mtr (also no affiliation with the seller). The L-handles are Porsche factory parts that have a "grained" plastic texture that, when combined with the rosettes, look absolutely correct in the header panel when installed.
A few months after converting the header motors to manual, I had the dreaded "main beam" b-pillar failure, in which the motors that raise and lower the top get out of synch and cause the main beam on one side of the top mechanism to snap. The part, which is on indefinite backorder to Porsche in Germany, costs over $1,600 new. Fortunately, when my main beam snapped, it didn't damage the fabric of my convertible top. My mechanic, at Rennwerke in Elmsford, NY, was able to arc-weld my broken beam for a small fraction of the cost of replacing it. Nonetheless, at that point, I decided to convert the up/down function to manual by loosening the bolts on the motors. Look in your owner's manual for the procedure.
See: https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ll-manual.html
===========================
I converted my top to "full manual" operation, using the DC Automotive conversion kit and disengaging the motors that raise and lower the top. I reached this point after owning my 964 cab for 13 years because, at least 1/3rd of the time, the header panel motors were out of synch and one motor would pull the top down onto the windshield header panel but I couldn't completely close the top because the other motor was out of synch. I learned that replacing the motors would be quite expensive (~$1,000 each) and doing so is only a temporary solution as they will eventually fail again because they're electrical motors placed where they will get wet (they're covered from above only with the fabric of the convertible top).
The DC Automotive conversion kit consists of two L-shaped handles from a Targa top and the corresponding slotted alloy inserts for the windshield header (the "wheels" at the ends of the L-handles are positioned slightly differently than those at the ends of the motors, so the inserts need to be changed). The kit cost around $600 and I recouped some of the cost by selling my two motors (one good, one bad) on e*ay for around $400. DC Auto's contact info is here: http://dcauto.gotdns.com/questions/new (no affiliation). My mechanic charged me for a few hours of work to replace the motors and the slotted inserts. Unless you're a very good mechanic, I wouldn't try to do it yourself as it's very tricky taking apart the convertible top header panel without damaging it, removing the motors and getting the L-handles aligned properly. My mechanic had to cover the sensor button on the outside right side of the convertible top header panel with some tape (holding it "in") to get the top to go up and down despite the motors no longer being in the convertible top header panel.
My mechanic also removed the convertible top error light bulb from the clock, as that will be "on" due to the motors being missing from the convertible top header panel. Even without the bulb, you will still need to turn off the "!" warning light in the speedometer using the button on the center console each time you start the car, since the lack of the motors trip the convertible top error warning. That's a bit of an annoyance, but nowhere near as bad as worrying about whether the convertible top header panel is going to bind and fail to close every time I put the top up.
At the suggestion of someone on Pelican Parts, I also bought these "rosettes", which plug into the convertible top header panel around the shafts for the L-handles, giving the header panel a nice "factory" look with the L-handles fitted. See: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rosette-Pair...4f952d&vxp=mtr (also no affiliation with the seller). The L-handles are Porsche factory parts that have a "grained" plastic texture that, when combined with the rosettes, look absolutely correct in the header panel when installed.
A few months after converting the header motors to manual, I had the dreaded "main beam" b-pillar failure, in which the motors that raise and lower the top get out of synch and cause the main beam on one side of the top mechanism to snap. The part, which is on indefinite backorder to Porsche in Germany, costs over $1,600 new. Fortunately, when my main beam snapped, it didn't damage the fabric of my convertible top. My mechanic, at Rennwerke in Elmsford, NY, was able to arc-weld my broken beam for a small fraction of the cost of replacing it. Nonetheless, at that point, I decided to convert the up/down function to manual by loosening the bolts on the motors. Look in your owner's manual for the procedure.
See: https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ll-manual.html
#14
Read where there were no dash lights with the fuses pulled (and maybe allthe motors and sensors too)
dont really want error lights allthe time.
-nick: thanks for the handle pic. exactly what the post looks like. I imagine the handles are opposite since one turns cw an the other ccw and they face in when engaged. Guess you need a R and a L if you go the OEM handles.
dont really want error lights allthe time.
-nick: thanks for the handle pic. exactly what the post looks like. I imagine the handles are opposite since one turns cw an the other ccw and they face in when engaged. Guess you need a R and a L if you go the OEM handles.
#15
Drifting
Mine looks the same as what Nick posted. I only have one handle and it works both sides. It is an OEM handle and the part# on it is 911.565.075.62