fishing

I am considering this option as I replace my top. I don't care for the electronic mechanism and my mechanic said he can retro the top mechanism to the previous generation manual lock. Any tips on how this can be done and if it works well?

Thanks,
Scott

Duck

I fold down and up my top manually after the B-pillar snapped. I still use the electric motors to lock the top when up. No real problems for me doing it this way.

Gus

IF you do keep me posted - I want to figure out how to get the top to fold out of the way- more like the speedster - So when it is down it is not sticking out of the back -

raspberryroadster

full fledged conversion to a speedster?

Gus

Rasp -
What I really am trying to find is a picture/diagram - (like the above) of the top frame work and how the top is attached to the rear of the car. Really need to get the frame work diagram - as this will show the difference between a standard cab frame and the speedster frame - and what the modifications are, or need to be to get the full cab top to fold down inside the rear compartment like the speedster top.

Gus

Cont'd - I don't want to modify the cab windshield or glass - as think that is too much $$ for the gain. I just want to be able to fold the cab top down inside the rear seat area so I can install the hard tonneau cover and still have a functional top even if it is hand operated.

raspberryroadster

not sure how that would work with high glass/high top that 964 cabs came with.
think you would need smaller / narrower top and less complex rail system than the cabs in order to fold lower (ie speedster).

not sure this helps but full detail/all parts for the stock cab top/mechanism and for the speedster are on this shop page (if you click on any diagram it will enlarge and you can drag any enlarged diagrams to your desktop to allow for viewing of all diagrams).

http://dcauto.gotdns.com/model/index/3585453/?p=811

scped

Bringing back an older thread. I am interested in doing this myself (after replacing one of the $$$$ motors). Here is what I suspect I may need:

Latch/L 964 565 031 00 x1
Latch/R 964 565 032 00 x1
Sckt screw 6x16 900 067 117 07 x6
Washer 6.4 N 011 524 7 x12
Lock Plate 911 565 707 01 x2 (Is this needed, or is it a targa-only item?)
Handle 911 565 075 62 70B x2

I'll pretend I want to replace these to save weight. The cost of these parts (assuming this is the complete list) are not much more than the cost of one of the four #$%^$& electric motors.

I defer to the experts here. Does this seem do-able? Am I missing something?

I sincerely appreciate all the help I have received to date.

Cheers,
Scped
'90 C4 Cab

fishing

Scped,

My top is done and I will take pictures after the weekend when I have access to my car. I would need to look up your parts list, but basicly, you make it into a 1988 cab top. That means a slight change on the side brackets by the transmission (I think an arm connected to the motor was removed on each side, that's all), changing the front locking mechanism with the manual connectors and manual levers from 1988. Then you remove the motors from the front of the top and from behind the rear seats/shelf. The main hang up is that the front cover (That covers the front locks) will need some custom work to make it function with the new locks and manual levers.

Overall, I am glad I did it but it is not for everyone. I am yet to have the custom piece completed. It works fine, just does not look "finished" without the piece attached. If you can find one used from a 1988 era top, it should fit.

John Rygg

would love to see your pictures and a DIY. my latch motors are having issues.
I have already made the rest manual.

JJJMCD

I looked into this as well, but as noted, the main stumbling point is the windshield header panel, at the leading edge of the convertible top. Manual tops from 3.2 Carreras have L-shaped handles that turn the locks (rather than the electric motors). There are screws in the header panel (they are imprinted with "Auff" or something like that), which I believe are designed for emergency manual use in case the motors fail, but my mechanic said that you can't simply attach the L-shaped handles to those screws.

Also note that the factory top is REALLY heavy - it's not like a Miata, where you reach behind you at a stoplight and pull up the top over your head with one arm.

90_C2_Cab

This is a great question and one I hope gets answered on here. I have wondered what I will do when mine breaks. all of the top motors, including the header motors are really expensive.

greg1990964

So nobody tried using the 964 targa parts. I have those so was hoping that would work, but the old Manuel top parts seem to do the job. Any updates?

greg1990964

Ok, decided to keep the targa a targa. Car is way to clean. I bought it after it came from paint shop. Anybody have rear targa seals to reinstall tear window and a windshield? All I then need to do is instal my motor and trans. Thanks.

JJJMCD

I converted my top to "full manual" operation, using the DC Automotive conversion kit and disengaging the motors that raise and lower the top.

I reached this point after owning my 964 cab for 13 years because, at least 1/3rd of the time, the header panel motors were out of synch and one motor would pull the top down onto the windshield header panel but I couldn't completely close the top because the other motor was out of synch. I learned that replacing the motors would be quite expensive (~$1,000 each) and doing so is only a temporary solution as they will eventually fail again because they're electrical motors placed where they will get wet (they're covered from above only with the fabric of the convertible top).

The DC Automotive conversion kit consists of two L-shaped handles from a Targa top and the corresponding slotted alloy inserts for the windshield header (the "wheels" at the ends of the L-handles are positioned slightly differently than those at the ends of the motors, so the inserts need to be changed). The kit cost around $600 and I recouped some of the cost by selling my two motors (one good, one bad) on e*ay for around $400. DC Auto's contact info is here: http://dcauto.gotdns.com/questions/new (no affiliation). My mechanic charged me for a few hours of work to replace the motors and the slotted inserts. Unless you're a very good mechanic, I wouldn't try to do it yourself as it's very tricky taking apart the convertible top header panel without damaging it, removing the motors and getting the L-handles aligned properly. My mechanic had to cover the sensor button on the outside right side of the convertible top header panel with some tape (holding it "in") to get the top to go up and down despite the motors no longer being in the convertible top header panel.

My mechanic also removed the convertible top error light bulb from the clock, as that will be "on" due to the motors being missing from the convertible top header panel. Even without the bulb, you will still need to turn off the "!" warning light in the speedometer using the button on the center console each time you start the car, since the lack of the motors trip the convertible top error warning. That's a bit of an annoyance, but nowhere near as bad as worrying about whether the convertible top header panel is going to bind and fail to close every time I put the top up.

At the suggestion of someone on Pelican Parts, I also bought these "rosettes", which plug into the convertible top header panel around the shafts for the L-handles, giving the header panel a nice "factory" look with the L-handles fitted. See: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rosette-Pair...4f952d&vxp=mtr (also no affiliation with the seller). The L-handles are Porsche factory parts that have a "grained" plastic texture that, when combined with the rosettes, look absolutely correct in the header panel when installed.

A few months after converting the header motors to manual, I had the dreaded "main beam" b-pillar failure, in which the motors that raise and lower the top get out of synch and cause the main beam on one side of the top mechanism to snap. The part, which is on indefinite backorder to Porsche in Germany, costs over $1,600 new. Fortunately, when my main beam snapped, it didn't damage the fabric of my convertible top. My mechanic, at Rennwerke in Elmsford, NY, was able to arc-weld my broken beam for a small fraction of the cost of replacing it. Nonetheless, at that point, I decided to convert the up/down function to manual by loosening the bolts on the motors. Look in your owner's manual for the procedure.

Best of luck!

John