Changing Rear drive shaft gators
01-06-2004, 09:29 AM
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Changing Rear drive shaft gators
Hi again, whilst my car is up on blocks I thought I may change the rear drive shaft gators (CV Joints boots), anyone have an idea of how hard this is to do and maybe a hint or two on how to do them?
Thanks
Richard
Thanks
Richard
01-06-2004, 09:45 AM
#2
Race Car
Richard, what can I say, it's a pain in the ***! 
...messy too.
I had to do this, AT THE TRACK, 1372 miles away from home in Iowa.
With the help of some fellow racers and a local shop, I retained all the materials to do so and almost stayed the night at the track. I don't ever want to go through that again, on the road.
Basically, remove the flange bolts, transmission side, remove associated rear wheel and get ready to impact the 36mm (or is it 32mm) nut that holds the axle into the wheel carrier...then the unit slides out.
From there, you will tap off the CV joint protector/cover, transmission side to reveal:
1) a BIG sloppy/greasy mess
2) a snap ring that is to be removed so you can tap your inboard CV joint off
Once you do that, you can remove the inner boot, then outer boot for replacement.
It is difficult to service the outer CV joint as from what I understand it takes special tools, i.e. a facility that specializes in this type repair/maintenance to remove that CV joint...don't bother, wipe some of the grease off and shove some fresh stuff down in there, put your new boot on the outboard joint and clamp as required.
Then slide your inboard boot on and your FRESHLY cleaned/greased inboard joint after that, install the snapring and tap the cover back on...CAREFULLY so that the holes in the cover PERFECTLY align with the holes through the CV joint - trust me on this one, line it up GOOD.
From there, make sure your boots are clamped, both ends and install the outboard side first, impact that nut back on with about a jillion lbs of whatever ya got and install the inboard allen bolts.
Factory says new nut and allen bolts...I say B. S. on that - SALES TACTIC.
There ya go...now for the lawyers:
Jeff is not responsible for loss of limbs, life or family pets during this procedure. He is also not responsible for RUINING clothing/rags with that NASTY BLACK GREASE during the process. Perform this procedure with the garage CLOSED and no small children in the area...you will drop the "F-bomb" on several occasions, trust me once again on this one.
OH yeah, save the beer for AFTERWARDS! ...well, okay, maybe one...or two, heck - as long as you don't road test afterwards, a six pack will do.
...messy too.
I had to do this, AT THE TRACK, 1372 miles away from home in Iowa.
With the help of some fellow racers and a local shop, I retained all the materials to do so and almost stayed the night at the track. I don't ever want to go through that again, on the road.
Basically, remove the flange bolts, transmission side, remove associated rear wheel and get ready to impact the 36mm (or is it 32mm) nut that holds the axle into the wheel carrier...then the unit slides out.
From there, you will tap off the CV joint protector/cover, transmission side to reveal:
1) a BIG sloppy/greasy mess
2) a snap ring that is to be removed so you can tap your inboard CV joint off
Once you do that, you can remove the inner boot, then outer boot for replacement.
It is difficult to service the outer CV joint as from what I understand it takes special tools, i.e. a facility that specializes in this type repair/maintenance to remove that CV joint...don't bother, wipe some of the grease off and shove some fresh stuff down in there, put your new boot on the outboard joint and clamp as required.
Then slide your inboard boot on and your FRESHLY cleaned/greased inboard joint after that, install the snapring and tap the cover back on...CAREFULLY so that the holes in the cover PERFECTLY align with the holes through the CV joint - trust me on this one, line it up GOOD.
From there, make sure your boots are clamped, both ends and install the outboard side first, impact that nut back on with about a jillion lbs of whatever ya got and install the inboard allen bolts.
Factory says new nut and allen bolts...I say B. S. on that - SALES TACTIC.
There ya go...now for the lawyers:
Jeff is not responsible for loss of limbs, life or family pets during this procedure. He is also not responsible for RUINING clothing/rags with that NASTY BLACK GREASE during the process. Perform this procedure with the garage CLOSED and no small children in the area...you will drop the "F-bomb" on several occasions, trust me once again on this one.
OH yeah, save the beer for AFTERWARDS! ...well, okay, maybe one...or two, heck - as long as you don't road test afterwards, a six pack will do.
01-06-2004, 09:54 AM
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Jeff
Sounds like a job I'm gonna enjoy, NOT!!!!! I have to do it though, My car wont pass the MOT if I dont replace the boots. SH$t, I thought is may be an easy job, Oh well, It gotta be done!!
Thanks
Richard
Sounds like a job I'm gonna enjoy, NOT!!!!! I have to do it though, My car wont pass the MOT if I dont replace the boots. SH$t, I thought is may be an easy job, Oh well, It gotta be done!!
Thanks
Richard
