Richard 92 C2

Hi all

I have a problem in that: The steering rack on my 92 C2 has sprung a serious leak, the steering oil is pi$$ing out of the gator boot, I have found a reconditioned replacement rack butwould like to know how to remove the old one and replace the new one. Is there anyone out there that has done this job themselves?, Also, I would be forever in debted to anyone who could scan me the pages explaining this task out of a Porsche workshop manual.

I thank you in adavance for your help!

Regards

Jeff Curtis

Richard, while I have not removed mine as of yet, it looks to be a straightforward job.

First I would unto the hydraulic lines and make my best attempt at getting most of the fluid out of there as to not make such a mess! Start by unhooking the flexible line from the reservoir at the rear, drain the reservoir into a cup and have someone undo one of the lines from the steering rack itself. I would probably shoot low pressure air into the system to force the fluid out.

You will have to undo your inner tie-rods from your outer ones at the coupling, each side. Loosten up the jam nuts and leave them just a 1/2 turn from there original location, then back the coupling off. Leaving the jam nuts somewhat close to their original location will ensure a decent toe setting in regards to alignment when you're finished...so the car is drivable to your OPC of choice for an alignment.

As for the rack itself, I believe there are 4-5 large head bolts...19mm socket?? When I checked it out awhile back it seemed straightforward to remove the unit.

ALSO, you will need to undo the steering shaft from the unit. If I remember correctly there is a clamp that resembles a seat post clamp on a bicycle that would release the steering rack from the shaft (steering column)??

I believe it is accessible from underneath the vehicle. On 1989 Carrera and below there is a "trap door" or as they call a "smuggler's compartment" where this universal joint for the steering shaft is accessible...different for the 964 though.

Good luck, take pics and let us know of any "tricks" you learned in the process.

Richard 92 C2

Geoff

Thanks for the reply, I'm going to tackle this job this weekend and will be sure to do a step for step photo layout.... I've already had a look see last night and the car is currently standing on axle stands (front). The steering rack looked pretty open, except for two cross members which cut across both ends, I wasn't sure if I should remove the two members in order to get the rack out so I decided to come in here for some advice. The only fear I did have (and the reason I din't start there and then) was .... I'm not entirely sure I know how to bleed a steering system. I'm pretty ok with bleeding brakes but have never had the pleasure (or dis-pleasure) of doing a steering.

I'm pretty handy with my toolbox and dont really see the removal of the rack as too much of a hassle, also, I reckon, saving £800.00 is a bonus, My local OPC want £1200.00 to replace the rack with a brand new one, I just can't see there being a huge difference in a recon unit at £300.00 ....

Maybe I'm juist a tight **** but I'll put my faith in the recon one anyway.

I'll let you know how I get on and will be sure to hurry back in here if it all goes pete tong!

Regards and Happy New Year to all!!!!!

Randall G.

There's a DIY for this on Robin Sun's webpage. For a 993, but should be very similar for a 964:

http://p-car.com//diy/steering/

Jeff Curtis

Yes, that procedure should work to a "T".

Good job Randall.

As for "bleeding" the steering system, no real issues here, it is an "OPEN" system, unlike a braking system which is closed after the master cylinder.

Just drain out to avoid a big mess and fill back up, the system will pressurize itself when you refill it, start the motor up, watch the level go down...usually all the way down in the reservoir and add more fluid until levels off.

Good luck!! ...glad to hear you will be taking pics.

ThomasC2

I just removed mine and I followed Robins instructions and they worked great! I did it in half an hour. My rack is in for a rebuild right now so I still have the part of getting everything together again, but it doesn't seem to hard.

I did one thing in another way though. Separating the outer tie rod ball joint can be difficult so I just unscrewed the inner fork from the tie rod and outer tie rod ball joint instead. It's much easier and you don't any special tools.

Another tip is to replace the inner tie rods/forks with the ones from the C4/RS version, they are a bit stiffer for better steering response. Part nr 964.347.058.00.

Also buy two new rubber inserts for the clamps holding the rack, part nr 964.347.137.06.

Good luck!

Jeff Curtis

Thanks Mr. Thomas.

I forgot about just disconnecting the rack from the tie rods via the forks...again, I have yet to perform this procedure on my 964, but I do know what you're referring to.

I need to order a set of those inner tie-rods from Gert.

Randall G.

Yup, as Thomas suggests, you'll definitely want to replace the tie-rods while you're at it, assuming your car doesn't have super-low miles. To do otherwise is considered foolish.

As Jeff says, bleeding the system is little more than turning the wheels back and forth with the engine running, refilling the reservoir as it drops. That's after starting the engine briefly, then filling. The procedure is described in the shop manual.

Speaking of which...perhaps one of your European buddies can fax you the rack replacement procedure from their shop manual? Or, let you "borrow" a copy of their CD? If you strike out, I can scan the procedure for you, but it's quite a few pages, if you include all the supporting data (rack replacement itself is only a few pages). The information contained in the shop manual is quite worthwhile, if you can get it. Torque values, exploded diagrams, procedures, etc. Between the shop manaul, Robin's DIY, and Jeff's directions above, you should have all the direction you need.

With regard to rebuilt versus new racks. My first rebuilt rack failed after a year, and had to be replaced again (part was under warranty). The second unit not only seals better, but feels better. The first rebuilt rack was oversensitive to minor steering inputs, and didn't have that solid road feel that Porsche has designed into their power steering systems. Anyway, bad luck on my part, lots of people using rebuilt racks with good results. For the money (even considering the labor to install the replacement rack), I can't justify the cost of new. For that matter, lots of new racks failing without a lot of miles on 'em (though mine made it to 115k miles).

Best of luck!

Richard 92 C2

Wow, this is why I love this place ......... So many people willing to give good sound advice at the dropof a hat. Thanks everyone who posted a reply, I will take may pictures.

From my family and I, We hope you all have a great and prosperous 2004 and may your wishes turn to Porsches and may they be good!

Warmest Regards

ThomasC2

Randall, are there any more tricks about bleeding the system than the things Jeff and Robin says? It sounds in your post like there are more things to think about than starting the engine, turning the wheel and top up with more fluid. Are there anything missing in Robins guide?

Randall G.

Thomas...no real tricks. Paraphrasing, the shop manual says:

-Fill up the reservoir.
-Turn on the engine briefly, immediately turn it off. "During this operation, the fluid level in the supply reservoir falls rapidly" (words from manual).
-Observe reservoir level, refill.
-Turn on engine briefly, refill again. Repeat process until level is steady.
-Start the engine and allow to idle.
-"Turn the steering wheel rapidly from one lock to the other several times so that the air can escape from the cylinders. In the limit positions of the piston, do not pull on the steering wheel more than is necessary to turn the steering."
-Observe, refill.
-Continue process until level is steady, no air bubbles rise up in the supply reservoir when the steering wheel is turning.
-With the engine idling, "produce the correct fluid level (between the min. and max. markings) without operating the steering system."

Finally, there's a note that the supply reservoir must not rise more than 10 mm when the engine is switched off.

Soo...pretty much common sense, and what's already written above and in Robin's DIY.

Jeff Curtis

Haha, Thomas got wound up in "American phrasing".

Thomas, when Randall said, "bleeding the system is little more than..." that means that is about it for the procedure...I had to reread it as well.

You guys from Sweden...I swear.

SO, how is the 'ol "Black on Black Rocket" doing otherwise? Last time I emailed w/you we were bleeding your brakes after you switched to BIG Reds.

ThomasC2

Ahh, OK guys you can't know everything!

Jeff, now it's winter outside but it's been a great year with "the Black rocket". The big reds front & rear worked great with the Turbo break valve. I'd a lot of good track days and even got a weekend at Nürburg Ring. The car worked really good there I must say!

After I'm finished with the steering rack I'll start to change the strut top mounts to monoball mounts, front and rear. And I also ordered the RS swaybar for the rear, and a Heigo bolt in rollcage....so as you can see I'm on the way to pick up racing again. I also pulled out the rear seats and will put in a carpet instead to get a more cleaner/racer look and save a few kilos!

Randall, thank you for your clarification about the bleeding procedure!

Happy new year!

Richard 92 C2

Hey Guys

Happy New year to ya'll!!

Thanks again for the info, I going to do the rack this weekend, keep your fingures crossed, like I said, if it goes pete tong and I end up with steering on the back wheels I'll sure to come a looking for more advice!

Regards

Richard 92 C2

Hi all

Ok, I did it, my car now turns left when it should turn right! OJ

It was a fairly exciting task I must admit, I've taken a good few pictures and will post them in a readable sequence as soon as I get a chance to, What I will say it this, its as easy as it looked on paper, I do reckon I can make it a lot easier to do once I get my pictures all in a row. there are a few differences from the descriptions I've seen over the past few days.

If you know what you're doing (which I now do) I think it could be done withing an hour (off) and another to replace the unit, I think I've managed to get it all apart without having put the alignment out by much, a couple of mill at the most.

Anyhow, i'm probably going to do the new unit this weekend, so' Wish me luck and I'll be back to update this thread soon!

Cya
Richard