Stephen Grellet

Following fitting the new suspension I took the car the car to the wheel alignment shop. In the specs that appear on the screen of the alignment machine, it shows front camber is adjusted by means of an eccentric washer on the top of the two lower strut locating bolts. All the information I have seen shows that there are no eccentric washers on these bolts, which means the only thing stopping the camber altering is the friction of the top bolt serrated washers. It would not take much of a bump to alter the camber angle. Is there such a thing as the eccentric washer set up or has anybody made some up. It would certainly make altering the camber much easier. I see in Adrians book there is a Porsche camber adjustment tool but I think the washers would be just as suitable for every day practical use.

springer3

You will bend the spindle before the serrated washers slip, assuming, of course, that the bolts are tighened properly. I changed the shocks, and helped with the alignment afterward. The mechanic owned an eccentric tool for prying the spindle assembly, but we had no trouble setting it by hand.

Bill Gregory

The only eccentric in the front suspension is for adjusting caster. Camber is, as you've observed, adjusted by the upper of the two bolts on each strut. These nuts and bolts, which Porsche says should be replaced each time you undo them, are torqued to around 100 ft lbs. I haven't heard of anyone having any problems with them loosening.

Jeff Curtis

The factory camber adjustment tool is just an eccentric socket that goes over the allen (cheese) head bolt to offer better/smoother adjustment vice bumping the tire/wheel which is annoying as hell when you just need a "smidget" and you whack a good 1deg. difference.

Bill is right on in regards to the eccentrics for the caster adjustment.

The tool is not needed for the camber adjustment...but again, makes it a bit easier to get within spec.

Cupcar

It is recommended by Porsche that the 4 front strut bolts be replaced at the time of the alignment. I think this is because of bolt stretch when tightened to the high torque required. So, when I have my car aligned, I let the shop use my old bolts to secure the specifications.

When I get the car home, I carefully remove each bolt, one at a time, leaving it's mate still tightened to hold the adjustment. I then replace it with a new dealer bought bolt installed using the factory instructions, factory lubricant and torque spec.

I do this because I can't get the shop to take the time to do it right , I wish I had my own alignment rack and wheel scales.....

Bill Gregory

I'm considering a set of Ruggles scales from Pegasus Racing for around $550. A Smartcamber gauge from Smart Racing works pretty well for camber. Caster just leave the eccentric on the same spot. Toe, haven't worked that one out quite yet - may consider Smart Racings string system. At around $475 per alignment/corner balance it doesn't take too long for the equipment to break even.

anto1150

Using the proper eccentric tool, I can't adjust the front camber < -1,3 degrees... I wanted to stay within -0,5/-1 (RS+5 height)... Why do you think I can't go less?


thanks