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So you systematically started pulling fuses and kept all fuses out and still measure 200-250ma draw? You did the same for the relays? If not, you might want to.
You are basically going to have to start unplugging items, one at a time (or 1/2 of the items at a time if that’s possible) to be able to figure this out.
Also, one of the items could be the alternator. It’s possible the alternator is sucking juice due to bad electronics or regulator back-feeding the alternator.
So you systematically started pulling fuses and kept all fuses out and still measure 200-250ma draw? You did the same for the relays? If not, you might want to. Yep, systematically pulled all the fuses and relays - still 200 -250 mA draw.
You are basically going to have to start unplugging items, one at a time (or 1/2 of the items at a time if that’s possible) to be able to figure this out. Sounds like a good next step, but not sure I fully understand which items you mean. Is it along the lines of, check with CCU pulled, then pull radio etc etc. and keep removing items which may draw current. I thought any draw would need to go through the fuse box apart from Alt/ Starter/ Alarm
Also, one of the items could be the alternator. It’s possible the alternator is sucking juice due to bad electronics or regulator back-feeding the alternator. Is there a good way to test this?
Another area to check is the glove compartment light staying on due to a bad switch.........
Do you mean the light just outside the glove box lid as I am pretty sure thats turning off. Or at least it was when I last checked. Is there another light that I am missing?
I don’t know much about this car’s alternator, but in the old days, the alternator had a hot lead that went straight to the battery. You could pull that hot lead off the alternator, but be careful - you don’t want that hot lead to touch anything. If there are any other wires on the alternator, I would remove them. It’s possible that current is back feeding into the alternator (or voltage regulator). This test (removal of wires) would rule that out.
Do you mean the light just outside the glove box lid as I am pretty sure thats turning off. Or at least it was when I last checked. Is there another light that I am missing?
I don’t know much about this car’s alternator, but in the old days, the alternator had a hot lead that went straight to the battery. You could pull that hot lead off the alternator, but be careful - you don’t want that hot lead to touch anything. If there are any other wires on the alternator, I would remove them. It’s possible that current is back feeding into the alternator (or voltage regulator). This test (removal of wires) would rule that out.
Next step is pulling the + batt cables in turn, to see if it lowers the drain.
Today I ventured under the dash, as nothing else seemed to lower the 250mA draw I thought I would try pulling some plugs. Unfortunately I was greeted with a bit of a mess, in-line fuses, un-insulated soldered joints. I discovered by pulling a DIY in-line fuse the mA draw dropped to 160 mA so approx 90mA drop. As I put the fuse back in I heard a solenoid type click from under the left side seat. I had a look under the seat, but I am unsure why a fuse would be needed here as I think I am correct in thinking that the DME or ECU are under there. I am assuming that the Alarm is under the right side seat?? as I want to try to isolate the alarm from the car to see the draw on the battery. I am pretty sure there is a second aftermarket alarm too, so sort of one step forward , two steps back. Any info on DME/ECU/Alarm positions would be appreciated, as would info on what you can remove from the alarm system and still have the car work as I have an immobiliser too.
Today I ventured under the dash, as nothing else seemed to lower the 250mA draw I thought I would try pulling some plugs. Unfortunately I was greeted with a bit of a mess, in-line fuses, un-insulated soldered joints. I discovered by pulling a DIY in-line fuse the mA draw dropped to 160 mA so approx 90mA drop. As I put the fuse back in I heard a solenoid type click from under the left side seat. I had a look under the seat, but I am unsure why a fuse would be needed here as I think I am correct in thinking that the DME or ECU are under there. I am assuming that the Alarm is under the right side seat?? as I want to try to isolate the alarm from the car to see the draw on the battery. I am pretty sure there is a second aftermarket alarm too, so sort of one step forward , two steps back. Any info on DME/ECU/Alarm positions would be appreciated, as would info on what you can remove from the alarm system and still have the car work as I have an immobiliser too.
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Really bad DIY wiring
Good grief, you gotta love DIY and other types of modifications on these cars.
Decided to get brave, as I had a feeling it was the aftermarket alarm. took out the passenger seat and WOW! how many wires.
Old aftermarket alarm and really bad DIY type install.
Some household connectors, un-insulated joints and a few glass bullet fuses.
Systematically, checked and pulled wires. starting car, checking immobiliser, checking central locking as I went. finally stripped it down enough to have pulled a load of wires and everything still worked okay. Disabled the remote central locking and ended up with a nice pared down system. Checked the carrent draw with everything locked etc - 50mA Fantastic, what a result a drop of approx 200mA. I think the battery will be safe at that rate of draw. All I need to do now is sort out a few rogue wires, sort out the radio/amp/speaker wires and mend the broken transistor in the CCU. hopefully that will be the electrics sorted for a while.
Good work. Only to be aware of now, if the battery had been fully drained once or twice, is the battery is somewhat compromised now, resulting in more wear, less life expectancy, less CCAs, etc. Just something to keep in mind for the future in case you start having battery trouble again. If you do buy a new battery, make sure the manufacturer date on the battery is 3 months old or newer.
Good work. Only to be aware of now, if the battery had been fully drained once or twice, is the battery is somewhat compromised now, resulting in more wear, less life expectancy, less CCAs, etc. Just something to keep in mind for the future in case you start having battery trouble again. If you do buy a new battery, make sure the manufacturer date on the battery is 3 months old or newer.
I have been using a spare battery for all the testing. I have a new one to fit now.
01-28-2018, 10:55 AM
