zogster

So I need to replace the clutch on my 952... it'll be the first time I've tackled this job, so I'm a little wary, though so far I've managed timing belts, head gaskets and the like without getting out of my depth.

I've watched Van's video, which is helpful.

I'd appreciate any thoughts and advice from anyone who's done the job. For one thing: I read somewhere a mention of dropping the whole rear subframe rather than removing drive shafts and dropping the transmission as per Clark's Garage. How would I do that, and is that easier than the 'book' method?

zogster

I should add: I'll be doing this on axle stands and outside

Tom M'Guinn

I have done it on jack stands many times. I can't imagine it would be easier to drop the sub-frame, but never tried. Pulling the axles doesn't take long and doesn't disturb the suspension etc. Be prepared to wrestle with the shift rod when you push it forward into the sound insulating foam. Biggest tip I can offer is to get a dedicated transmission jack like the ones they sell at Harbor Freight. I imagine Machine Mart has something similar in your neck of the woods... Makes lowering the tranny an un-dramatic event...

Auto_Werks 3.6

With my most recent flywheel problem, my friend and I have clutch removal down to 1hr 45min... clutch and gearbox were still warm when it hit the ground. There's no reason that someone who can do a timing belt shouldn't be able to do a clutch. It's just a lot of little jobs adding up to one big job. Take your time and follow clarks garage, you'll be fine.

*edit... this was on jackstands, but I have the nice esco units

zogster

Thanks fellas, that's all helpful and encouraging.

And... 1hr 45min?!!?

That's amazing for a job that's supposed to be 10, 12, 20 hours, that kinda thing. A lot of practice?

marky522

When you know what your doing its fast. I have a lift and every tool you can imagine, and did my last turbo clutch in less than 4 hours after not doing one for a very long time. With what you have done before, you will be fine, much less critical thinking, more step by step.

Mark

Paul Waterloo

Make sure you disconnect all the electrical items at the top first before starting on the bottom or jacking the car up. I did mine on a lift by myself and it took me the better part of three days. I think 3 to 4 hours was getting the speed and reference sensor back in (about 2 hours was finding a new bolt at the hardware store because I dropped it somewhere and could not find it).

I remember doing a lot of it quickly, but there are some parts that just slow you down when you find a stripped fastener or something. Here is a thread that I put together about a home made clutch alignment tool:

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...tch-notes.html

And probably the most important thing is putting the beveled washer for the throw out bearing in the correct way!! It seems like it should go one way, but it actually goes the opposite way. Lindsey racing's website has a discussion on this. Some pictures in this thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-issues-2.html

Good luck! It's not hard, just take your time.

Auto_Werks 3.6

Unfortunately lots of practice recently.
I also habe no center console or insulation around the shifter, notched bellhousing so the speed sensors stay in place, and a v-band waste gate. And it had been apart already this year so nothing was stuck.

Tom M'Guinn

Good point, me too, those really do help...

zogster

Yeah, I can imagine the stuff at the top of the bell housing is going to be crazy hard to get at... that part of the engine bay is hard enough to see properly, let alone reach with tools!

That said, I think I have removed at least one of those sensors before, though I can't remember why. May have been troubleshooting an engine starting problem.

The transmission jack tip is a good one - I've ordered an adapter to fit on top of my trolley jack.

Tom M'Guinn

There's one bolt at the top of the bellhousing I always have a hard time with. I made this a long time ago just for that purpose. Ugly, but effective...

zogster

I think that kind of tool bodgery is one of the best reasons to learn basic welding... made myself a very handy improvised pin wrench for the timing belt job

zogster

New clutch arrived, waiting for another few odds and sods....

I'm just wondering whether I should replace the flywheel with a lightweight aluminium one - partly for easier revving reasons, and partly because it means I don;t have to wait to get my current flywheel re-surfaced, I can just bolt the new one in and put it all back together.

Fidanza seem to make one that is popular, but I've read several people saying that even a new one should be balanced before fitting. Which is a pain as I'm having a hard time tracking down someone that could do it - even my local independent Porsche garage couldn't think of anyone. Anyone have an insight here? (And/or recommendations for West London machine shops that would do this!)

Chris White

the top bell housing bolt is easiest to get to with a socket with the integral universal and a 3' extension. The separate universal with a standard socket will not work very well.

spanky

This is a job I am helping with on my car at a friends shop in Cambell that has lifts, I thought about doing it at home in the drive way and came to the conclusion that nope, I didn't want to spend this much time under my car. I'm renting lift time and helping with the labor while learning exactly how to do this repair. Car will be up and running by the close of day tomorrow.