macnewma

My 944 Turbo has the Autothority STG2 chips. Along with that, I believe it has a "Jetted Banjo Bolt". I would like to add a Reliaboost-II but according to Boost Sciences, I needed to replace my Banjo Bolt.

Does anyone know the part number and good supplier for a factory Banjo Bolt?

Is it correct that I need to replace this in order to add another MBC such as the Reliaboost?

TIA,
Max

NZ951

Good question. I have a EBC solenoid and I would like to run the lines off the banjo bolt, currently they are off a MAP line. Anyone got a good idea on splitting the banjo bolt line into two? How have you EBC guys done it?

Dwayne Williams

Your banjo bolt might just have a threaded insert in it (mine did). If you pull the banjo bolt and look down in the end you might see the insert. Mine had a slot on it so I held the banjo bolt with pliers and used a screwdriver to take it out.

adrial

You want to pick up an aftermarket boost gauge so that you can get an accurate reading of boost.

The jet in the banjo bolt may be making way more boost than it claims to be, also when you get the reliaboost you will need a way to know how much boost the car is really making. The factory boost gauge is not accurate enough, also in most people's cars it doesnt read past 1 bar of boost (14.5psi).

macnewma

Thanks for the heads up Adrial.

It already has an aftermarket boost guage and A/F guage. I forgot to mention those in my sig...they aren't too exciting.

And yes, it does make more boost than 14.5. Around about 16-17. That is part of why I want a boost controller. I don't trust this method.

Can anyone confirm for me that the Banjo Bolt does not need to be replaced, but simply modified? Or should I just take it apart and check?

Max

IceShark

Take the banjo bolt off and check. I have AutoThority chips that I put in 10 years ago so my memory isn't too good on this. But I do recall they send a new banjo bolt with a restrictor screwed in it and a couple of drill bits. Instructions said to start drilling the restricted size larger if boost was too high.

I assume you don't have the original bolt around so if the restrictor is in there just screw it out or drill it wide open.

$pit

Heres a pic of the end of an Authority banjo bolt, I removed this bolt from car and bought a stock bolt and reliaboost. the stock bolt is the same except the screw in restirctor that you see in pic is not in the stock bolt

$pit

Couldn't figure out how to post 2 pics on one post so heres another.

Flight_951

I recently replaced the jetted banjo bolt with a stocker. Bought it at the dealer, part no. 900-175-020-02, and it was $8.70.

NZ951

Can you take the factory hose off the bolt? And fit another? I need to split it into two for EBC.

adrial

NZ951,

Yup...just take a cutting wheel to the crimp holding the factory hose on.

Replace with correctly sized hose that is approved for boost/vacum...and you should be good to go.

Will both of the split connections go to the EBC? Or are you intending on sending one of them to the factory location (the cycling valve) and the other to the EBC?

If you're planning on sending one to the factory location, I would recommend just bypassing the cycling valve. It can only cause problems if you're not using it but its still plumbed into the system.

NZ951

Stock CV is gone burgers. It will run to the EBC and wastegate... How does the hose fit to the bolt? Just a hose clamp?

Zu_langsam

I dealing with the same issues, just took the insert out of the banjo bolt on my car. Any sugestions on a good but not so expensive manual boost controller?

tazman

Yes

FityOne

I use a Reliaboost from boostsciences. Some one else just asked the same question on a different post. The reliaboost is a stand alone manual boost controller and very inexpensive. I have has mine for a while now and am very happy with it. I use is directly to the wastegate to bypass the cycling valve (which is busted in my case).