Gtx turbo - boiling
04-18-2017, 07:26 AM
#18
Oil might cool down from say 120°C to below 100°C by just letting the engine idle, but that will need way more time than just doing one or two extra laps at minimum load so that oil is properly cooled down through the area of the oil cooler(s).
It seems very few realize that a stationary car is not cooled down whatsoever unless the fans are running full on, which puts load on the engine thus creates heat.
The turbo cooling pump is a safety net against the many cases when the car is coming to halt and/or the engine is being stopped before oil was properly cooled down (and that is not done leaving the engine idle). Removing it is asking for trouble and can cause the coolant in the CHRA to boil from hot oil. At least with the temp sensor the pump will circulate coolant if coolant temp reaches 110°C.
To cut it short, deleting the turbo cooling pump is nothing but asking for trouble.
It seems very few realize that a stationary car is not cooled down whatsoever unless the fans are running full on, which puts load on the engine thus creates heat.
The turbo cooling pump is a safety net against the many cases when the car is coming to halt and/or the engine is being stopped before oil was properly cooled down (and that is not done leaving the engine idle). Removing it is asking for trouble and can cause the coolant in the CHRA to boil from hot oil. At least with the temp sensor the pump will circulate coolant if coolant temp reaches 110°C.
To cut it short, deleting the turbo cooling pump is nothing but asking for trouble.
04-18-2017, 01:54 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Oil might cool down from say 120°C to below 100°C by just letting the engine idle, but that will need way more time than just doing one or two extra laps at minimum load so that oil is properly cooled down through the area of the oil cooler(s).
It seems very few realize that a stationary car is not cooled down whatsoever unless the fans are running full on, which puts load on the engine thus creates heat.
The turbo cooling pump is a safety net against the many cases when the car is coming to halt and/or the engine is being stopped before oil was properly cooled down (and that is not done leaving the engine idle). Removing it is asking for trouble and can cause the coolant in the CHRA to boil from hot oil. At least with the temp sensor the pump will circulate coolant if coolant temp reaches 110°C.
To cut it short, deleting the turbo cooling pump is nothing but asking for trouble.
It seems very few realize that a stationary car is not cooled down whatsoever unless the fans are running full on, which puts load on the engine thus creates heat.
The turbo cooling pump is a safety net against the many cases when the car is coming to halt and/or the engine is being stopped before oil was properly cooled down (and that is not done leaving the engine idle). Removing it is asking for trouble and can cause the coolant in the CHRA to boil from hot oil. At least with the temp sensor the pump will circulate coolant if coolant temp reaches 110°C.
To cut it short, deleting the turbo cooling pump is nothing but asking for trouble.
I'm thinking about something like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mez-wp136s/overview/
and then build a small aluminum box that will fit a thermo switch. plumb the box downstream of the turbo and wire the pump up to it. Same concept as the factory, but should give more mounting options.
thoughts?
04-18-2017, 10:17 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Oil might cool down from say 120°C to below 100°C by just letting the engine idle, but that will need way more time than just doing one or two extra laps at minimum load so that oil is properly cooled down through the area of the oil cooler(s).
It seems very few realize that a stationary car is not cooled down whatsoever unless the fans are running full on, which puts load on the engine thus creates heat.
The turbo cooling pump is a safety net against the many cases when the car is coming to halt and/or the engine is being stopped before oil was properly cooled down (and that is not done leaving the engine idle). Removing it is asking for trouble and can cause the coolant in the CHRA to boil from hot oil. At least with the temp sensor the pump will circulate coolant if coolant temp reaches 110°C.
To cut it short, deleting the turbo cooling pump is nothing but asking for trouble.
It seems very few realize that a stationary car is not cooled down whatsoever unless the fans are running full on, which puts load on the engine thus creates heat.
The turbo cooling pump is a safety net against the many cases when the car is coming to halt and/or the engine is being stopped before oil was properly cooled down (and that is not done leaving the engine idle). Removing it is asking for trouble and can cause the coolant in the CHRA to boil from hot oil. At least with the temp sensor the pump will circulate coolant if coolant temp reaches 110°C.
To cut it short, deleting the turbo cooling pump is nothing but asking for trouble.
04-19-2017, 12:15 AM
#21
Rennlist Member
so I'm going to add one back, but am thinking of going a different route than factory. mainly cause my water lines to/from the turbo are all AN lines and I dont want to rig up something to the factory pump (being platic and all).
I'm thinking about something like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mez-wp136s/overview/
and then build a small aluminum box that will fit a thermo switch. plumb the box downstream of the turbo and wire the pump up to it. Same concept as the factory, but should give more mounting options.
thoughts?
I'm thinking about something like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mez-wp136s/overview/
and then build a small aluminum box that will fit a thermo switch. plumb the box downstream of the turbo and wire the pump up to it. Same concept as the factory, but should give more mounting options.
thoughts?
04-19-2017, 05:14 AM
#22
I kept the stock thermostat + housing, cut the banjo and "hosed" the assembly between the turbo outlet knee pipe and the pipe going to the water pump.
04-19-2017, 10:45 AM
#24
04-19-2017, 11:33 AM
#25
04-19-2017, 01:27 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
We've used one of that brand. Pumps a ton of water. We haven't fired up the motor yet but am hopeful this will cover our needs. Pretty bulky to install. I think the one you're looking at is smaller but will still take some thought. That OJ isn't as small as it looks..ie pump is biggish.
04-19-2017, 05:05 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Assuming they'd have some tech diagrams / specs somewhere on their site?
04-20-2017, 05:18 PM
#28
Burning Brakes
04-22-2017, 04:15 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
theblump I bought is decently big. Like overkill. What's people's thoughts to taking the factory aux pump and epoxying in 2 -6 an fittings? At risk of the pump cracking during track usage?