Oil galley freeze plugs
#1
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I'm about to install the freeze plugs in the main oil galley. I know some people use sealers on it and others just tap them in. It crossed my mind to use some of the loctite 574 that I used on the girdle as it's designed to seal metal to metal gaps up to about .01 in or so. Assuming the plug will most likely push the loctite right out anyhow. Can't see where it would hurt and the excess would just wash away after the first startup? Thoughts on this? Don't want a leak here!
#2
Race Car
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I'm about to install the freeze plugs in the main oil galley. I know some people use sealers on it and others just tap them in. It crossed my mind to use some of the loctite 574 that I used on the girdle as it's designed to seal metal to metal gaps up to about .01 in or so. Assuming the plug will most likely push the loctite right out anyhow. Can't see where it would hurt and the excess would just wash away after the first startup? Thoughts on this? Don't want a leak here!
Then, using a small chisel (not sharp with a 1/16-1/8" flattened point), stake the raised boss outside the bore for the plug in 6-8 spots.
Track engines....never had one come out.
T
#5
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are you saying you drive the plug in then ping the edge of the plug? Or drive it in with the chisel? I figured I use the loctite 574 and tap the plug in with a socket and extension combo until it stops. My other block with assumed factory plugs we're tapped past flush about .125 in or so
#6
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are you saying you drive the plug in then ping the edge of the plug? Or drive it in with the chisel? I figured I use the loctite 574 and tap the plug in with a socket and extension combo until it stops. My other block with assumed factory plugs we're tapped past flush about .125 in or so
The water pump goes over the front one don't forget. So if you stuff it up and it leaks, prepare to remove the water pump.
When i got my rebuild kit, my plug was to small, so we put the original one back in. ended up leaking after a few months. loctite was used. so we replaced it with 1 we made and also had oring seal on it because it was something i didn't want leaking again.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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Use a sealant on them. I have had one leak and that will ruin your day!
There are three plugs, but the front and rear are the only ones listed as spares. The one in the vertical bore is a mystery part number. I have searched and searched for it, but I may have found it in the 968 engine diagrams.
There are three plugs, but the front and rear are the only ones listed as spares. The one in the vertical bore is a mystery part number. I have searched and searched for it, but I may have found it in the 968 engine diagrams.
#9
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Use a sealant on them. I have had one leak and that will ruin your day!
There are three plugs, but the front and rear are the only ones listed as spares. The one in the vertical bore is a mystery part number. I have searched and searched for it, but I may have found it in the 968 engine diagrams.
There are three plugs, but the front and rear are the only ones listed as spares. The one in the vertical bore is a mystery part number. I have searched and searched for it, but I may have found it in the 968 engine diagrams.
#11
#12
Race Car
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are you saying you drive the plug in then ping the edge of the plug? Or drive it in with the chisel? I figured I use the loctite 574 and tap the plug in with a socket and extension combo until it stops. My other block with assumed factory plugs we're tapped past flush about .125 in or so
This makes impressions that overhang the diameter of the bore.
When you remove them, in preparing your block, this allows you to use a long bottle brush to clean the passage with soap and water on your stand before assembly. This is the only reason I remove them anyway.
T
#13
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Drive in normal with sleeve retaining loctite...., it's not a gap filling anaerobic, it's for locking bushings and races. Then stake the aluminum block boss 90 degrees to the bore, flat with the face of the opening with chisel described.
This makes impressions that overhang the diameter of the bore.
When you remove them, in preparing your block, this allows you to use a long bottle brush to clean the passage with soap and water on your stand before assembly. This is the only reason I remove them anyway.
T
This makes impressions that overhang the diameter of the bore.
When you remove them, in preparing your block, this allows you to use a long bottle brush to clean the passage with soap and water on your stand before assembly. This is the only reason I remove them anyway.
T
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#14
Race Car
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I use the Permatex brand, NAPA store keep nit in stock.
I use it on automatic transmission bushings and manual transmission bearing races.....anything you want to lock into a clean bore.
T