Timing values for Link 2
#61
Race Director
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"two that I know of, mentioned that the link values in the table are on top of the static field input. However, this does not seem to be the case."
Actually, it is the case. You're just missing some pieces of the puzzle that you weren't aware was lying even further below the software. Call it firmware.. Rather than looking at it from a top-down approach:
ActualTiming = IgnitionTable + StaticAdvance
Look at it from the bottom up starting at the flywheel sensor:
ActualTiming = FlywheelTrigger + TriggerAdaptorBoardOffset + StaticAdvance + IgnitionTable
There were two extra components at the hardware & firmware level that you weren't aware of. All you've been seeing is the software, which is fine. But you have to understand the underlying hardware on how the software gets its data. In this case, the trigger-adaptor board is the bridge between the hardware and software.
Actually, it is the case. You're just missing some pieces of the puzzle that you weren't aware was lying even further below the software. Call it firmware.. Rather than looking at it from a top-down approach:
ActualTiming = IgnitionTable + StaticAdvance
Look at it from the bottom up starting at the flywheel sensor:
ActualTiming = FlywheelTrigger + TriggerAdaptorBoardOffset + StaticAdvance + IgnitionTable
There were two extra components at the hardware & firmware level that you weren't aware of. All you've been seeing is the software, which is fine. But you have to understand the underlying hardware on how the software gets its data. In this case, the trigger-adaptor board is the bridge between the hardware and software.
#62
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Thanks Danno....13.4 degres static timing it is then! I am using 10 and getting some good results, I register about 3 knock events on a full load run, just need to log and see where they are and play with it a bit more.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#63
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Danno nice to hear from you good information is hard to come by. And i will get those timing specs just have to varify my data with Neal and he is really loaded down with work.
#64
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Been experimenting with timing on my set up. I have researched all the previous posts on this and opened threads about it before. Rage2 gave some very good advice on setting up timing earlier in this post and I must say, sharing the knowledge gained by tuning on the dyno has helped me out a lot.
Basically, the advice was to set fuel to show about 12.5:1 or maybe a bit less at full boost and keep increasing timing until it knocks. This would then be the maximum limit for the octane of fuel used and for a given boost.
With my T04E turbo, I can run 18psi at a ~12.3:1 AFR and hold up to 18 degrees with 93 octane gas. Any more timing and the Link backs it off. BTW, the Link 2 closed loop timing is awesome. If I try and put in say WOT timing of 20 degrees ramping up too quickly to over 24 degrees, the link will knock it down to 18 degrees and usually about 20-23 to red line. It works very well. Anyway the upshot is that I think I have confirmed what has been said before, that about 18 degrees at max torque is about the most timing you can go with 18psi on 93 octane holding a good AFR before knocking. I don’t want to run below 18 degrees to keep EGTs in check. I could get the link to be less sensitive with the knock sensing but I want to be safe.
Whats also interesting is that I run up to 40 degrees under light load and my fuel consumption has increased dramantically.
This is all with a turbo which is bigger than stock, does anyone know what timing the guru 18psi kits run with the stock K26’s??
Basically, the advice was to set fuel to show about 12.5:1 or maybe a bit less at full boost and keep increasing timing until it knocks. This would then be the maximum limit for the octane of fuel used and for a given boost.
With my T04E turbo, I can run 18psi at a ~12.3:1 AFR and hold up to 18 degrees with 93 octane gas. Any more timing and the Link backs it off. BTW, the Link 2 closed loop timing is awesome. If I try and put in say WOT timing of 20 degrees ramping up too quickly to over 24 degrees, the link will knock it down to 18 degrees and usually about 20-23 to red line. It works very well. Anyway the upshot is that I think I have confirmed what has been said before, that about 18 degrees at max torque is about the most timing you can go with 18psi on 93 octane holding a good AFR before knocking. I don’t want to run below 18 degrees to keep EGTs in check. I could get the link to be less sensitive with the knock sensing but I want to be safe.
Whats also interesting is that I run up to 40 degrees under light load and my fuel consumption has increased dramantically.
This is all with a turbo which is bigger than stock, does anyone know what timing the guru 18psi kits run with the stock K26’s??
#65
Three Wheelin'
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Glad to know I could help
.
Regarding timing at part throttle, on a few hondas that I've tuned, I have part throttle timing up to 43 degrees on 94 octane fuel. Even with a turbo strapped on sapping power at part throttle, fuel economy is BETTER than stock, on a motor making nearly 3x stock power. Best of both worlds!
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Regarding timing at part throttle, on a few hondas that I've tuned, I have part throttle timing up to 43 degrees on 94 octane fuel. Even with a turbo strapped on sapping power at part throttle, fuel economy is BETTER than stock, on a motor making nearly 3x stock power. Best of both worlds!
#68
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Any news on this? I have just started up my car with the Link 2 and I´m just about to start tune. It would be nice to have a ignition map, similar to the Guru ones to start with. What I understand is that the "Static timing" is 13,4 degrees.
Anyone who has come further in this? Danno maybe?
Anyone who has come further in this? Danno maybe?
#75
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NZ, I take it you used a dial back timing light to confirm the 10 degrees static?? Can anyone else confirm the 10 degrees static? I am using 10 but there seems to be a difference of opinion on this one.....